I bought my daughter a Satsuki Azalea from Brussel’s Bonsai as a Christmas present. She was watering it twice per week (via sink faucet) but it was still dry, so we thought maybe the roots weren’t getting enough moisture so we dunked the pot into a container of water until we saw the water bubbling up top at the surface and that got the soil nice and moist. We bought a soil moisture meter and by the third day it’s back to being dry. We live in San Diego, where it is relatively dry but I thought watering daily might be too much. Should we be using some sort of treated water? Or does it need to be re-potted already? We put it outside in direct sunlight during the day and bring it inside in the evening since the temps are currently dropping to 45 degrees at night. I have included pictures for reference. Any help you can give would be appreciated. Thank You so much!!
Satsuki Azalea Help Please!
- Thread starter Jacq78
- Start date
Glaucus
Omono
My guess it was too wet. It was dormant and being watered regularly. It still looks dormant, even though it was inside during the nights.
It is just easier to keep outdoor plants, outdoors. 45 degrees is plenty warm. You are probably better keeping satsuki indoors during the summer, outdoors during the winter. But with airco I think you need a humidifier and a grow light as well.
I have to water my indoor satsuki about once ever 2 days. But they are actively growing and will start to wilt on day 3.
It is just easier to keep outdoor plants, outdoors. 45 degrees is plenty warm. You are probably better keeping satsuki indoors during the summer, outdoors during the winter. But with airco I think you need a humidifier and a grow light as well.
I have to water my indoor satsuki about once ever 2 days. But they are actively growing and will start to wilt on day 3.
Brian Van Fleet
Pretty Fly for a Bonsai Guy
Keep it outside, situated in AM sun and shade the rest of the day. All the time. Water it thoroughly each morning, and ditch the humidity tray. Brown leaves won’t turn green again, but with a little luck, it may begin to grow some new ones. Satsuki azaleas handle freezing temperatures much better than indoor conditions, and likely in San Diego, there won’t ever be a need to keep it inside.
Am I wrong here, or are those leaves bronzed from winter? I expect you lose those older leaves, and it goes green in the later spring - those buds looks healthy. If it was one of mine this time of year here in Ohio, I'd say that's just what they look like now.
Good luck!
B
Good luck!
B
Glaucus
Omono
Nope. Those leaves are dead. Some parts of the plant may still be alive, and bud back. As per https://www.bonsainut.com/threads/azalea-lazarus.67592/#post-1168625
Healthy autumn/winter colour looks like this:
As per: http://naokien.sakura.ne.jp
Note that azalea winter colour will only be strong if temperatures drop towards 0C/32F quite rapidly.
Healthy autumn/winter colour looks like this:
As per: http://naokien.sakura.ne.jp
Note that azalea winter colour will only be strong if temperatures drop towards 0C/32F quite rapidly.
Thank you so much for your advice! I’ll ditch the tray and move it outside now. Hopefully we can salvage it.
Shibui
Imperial Masterpiece
Agree that the leaves are dead or dying but that does not mean the end of the azalea.
I suspect it is more likely dehydration than over watering, even though it's winter there. The tree is indoors overnight it has been outdoors during the day. Both can be dry environments. Trying to water bonsai by the calendar (every 2 days, etc) is bound to end in problems. Every place is different. Every season is different. How much water depends on many factors: how dry the air around it is; how much wind; size of pot compared to size of tree; soil mix; species; how long it has been in the pot and more. We must monitor soil moisture levels to determine when to water - and that means soil moisture In the pot, not just surface.
Azaleas tend to grow lots of very fine roots which quickly fill the spaces in the pot and make it hard to get enough water into the soil. In that case we need to water more often, just to keep up with the plant's water needs. Satsuki are evergreen so never really fully dormant which means they do need water, even during winter.
It becomes difficult to water properly when the soil has dried out. If watered from above, most of the water runs off and around the soil and out the bottom of the pot, giving the impression we've watered well but that water has only soaked in maybe half an inch. The inside is still dry because dry soil becomes hydrophobic - it actually repels water. Dunking the pot in a tub can go a long way toward keeping the plant hydrated as it ensures that the root zone starts off properly wet. Dunking once a week would probably not be too often for a tree that tends to dry out quickly.
If the pot dries out daily then it needs watering daily. Few plants can survive in totally dry soil.
Azaleas like acid conditions. Tap water in most places has been adjusted to slightly alkaline to protect pipes and tapware. Some growers use rainwater for azaleas to avoid the problems of alkaline water. Others use acid fertiliser which is designed to offset the effects of alkaline tap water. Both ways can work
This Azalea may need repotting. I check for that by pushing down on the soil surface with a finger. If the soil can be compressed there's still plenty of room for more roots so no need to repot. If the soil is very had and I cannot push a finger into it then it's coming up time to repot.
@Glaucus has already shared my recent thread covering a dehydrated azalea. @brentwood has noted that the buds still appear healthy and I'm confident this can sprout new shoots as mine did, provided conditions are improved.
I suspect it is more likely dehydration than over watering, even though it's winter there. The tree is indoors overnight it has been outdoors during the day. Both can be dry environments. Trying to water bonsai by the calendar (every 2 days, etc) is bound to end in problems. Every place is different. Every season is different. How much water depends on many factors: how dry the air around it is; how much wind; size of pot compared to size of tree; soil mix; species; how long it has been in the pot and more. We must monitor soil moisture levels to determine when to water - and that means soil moisture In the pot, not just surface.
Azaleas tend to grow lots of very fine roots which quickly fill the spaces in the pot and make it hard to get enough water into the soil. In that case we need to water more often, just to keep up with the plant's water needs. Satsuki are evergreen so never really fully dormant which means they do need water, even during winter.
It becomes difficult to water properly when the soil has dried out. If watered from above, most of the water runs off and around the soil and out the bottom of the pot, giving the impression we've watered well but that water has only soaked in maybe half an inch. The inside is still dry because dry soil becomes hydrophobic - it actually repels water. Dunking the pot in a tub can go a long way toward keeping the plant hydrated as it ensures that the root zone starts off properly wet. Dunking once a week would probably not be too often for a tree that tends to dry out quickly.
If the pot dries out daily then it needs watering daily. Few plants can survive in totally dry soil.
Azaleas like acid conditions. Tap water in most places has been adjusted to slightly alkaline to protect pipes and tapware. Some growers use rainwater for azaleas to avoid the problems of alkaline water. Others use acid fertiliser which is designed to offset the effects of alkaline tap water. Both ways can work
This Azalea may need repotting. I check for that by pushing down on the soil surface with a finger. If the soil can be compressed there's still plenty of room for more roots so no need to repot. If the soil is very had and I cannot push a finger into it then it's coming up time to repot.
@Glaucus has already shared my recent thread covering a dehydrated azalea. @brentwood has noted that the buds still appear healthy and I'm confident this can sprout new shoots as mine did, provided conditions are improved.
Deep Sea Diver
Imperial Masterpiece
Here are my thoughts - a couple things stuck out.
First and perhaps most importantly - San Diego tap water - Likely an key issue.
- From personal experience San Diego tap water is hard. Based upon recent SD Water Quality Report 145-295 ppm is the posted range. Tending hard to very hard, so a good deal of calcium carbonate.
- pH varies 7.50-8.58. Pretty high for azaleas above 7.8. (All three plants delivering SD water show fairly similar range.)
- if tap water continues to being used some sort of additive or treatment needs to be used. Elemental sulfur or perhaps iron sulfate. Also monitor the pH.
- Alternately - Distilled water will work well if a small amount of miracle gro for azaleas was added every two weeks to add micronutrients. It’s pretty cheap in bulk
Second - Sun exposure. The azalea was kept out in the sun all day. A lot of sun, but the temperature has been in the low 60’s to the high 40’s. So doubt sun alone did this damage.
- At this point, it’s best to keep the azalea in open shade or part shade all day until it recovers. btw Remove all dead leaves from plant and media.
Third - Media/watering… see my water quality comments above.
- heard an awful lot about Brussel’s Bonsai media for azaleas over the years. It works ok if handled well. Best thing is water when media is barely moist, then water well and wait until ithe media is barely moist again.
- Meters aren’t great for this. One has to get a feel for the media. We use our finger or lift pots and check the weight. Works well.
- A regular watering schedule does not work for plants as moisture will change depending upon the weather.
Fourth - Moisture tray. Remove please
Finally - do not repot. Consider this next Feb if the azalea responds well.
Signing out…
Cheers
DSD sends
First and perhaps most importantly - San Diego tap water - Likely an key issue.
- From personal experience San Diego tap water is hard. Based upon recent SD Water Quality Report 145-295 ppm is the posted range. Tending hard to very hard, so a good deal of calcium carbonate.
- pH varies 7.50-8.58. Pretty high for azaleas above 7.8. (All three plants delivering SD water show fairly similar range.)
- if tap water continues to being used some sort of additive or treatment needs to be used. Elemental sulfur or perhaps iron sulfate. Also monitor the pH.
- Alternately - Distilled water will work well if a small amount of miracle gro for azaleas was added every two weeks to add micronutrients. It’s pretty cheap in bulk
Second - Sun exposure. The azalea was kept out in the sun all day. A lot of sun, but the temperature has been in the low 60’s to the high 40’s. So doubt sun alone did this damage.
- At this point, it’s best to keep the azalea in open shade or part shade all day until it recovers. btw Remove all dead leaves from plant and media.
Third - Media/watering… see my water quality comments above.
- heard an awful lot about Brussel’s Bonsai media for azaleas over the years. It works ok if handled well. Best thing is water when media is barely moist, then water well and wait until ithe media is barely moist again.
- Meters aren’t great for this. One has to get a feel for the media. We use our finger or lift pots and check the weight. Works well.
- A regular watering schedule does not work for plants as moisture will change depending upon the weather.
Fourth - Moisture tray. Remove please
Finally - do not repot. Consider this next Feb if the azalea responds well.
Signing out…
Cheers
DSD sends
