Satsuki Azalea Air Layer Zone 8a

Chunky Trunks

Sapling
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Location
Charlotte NC
USDA Zone
8a
Hello , I hope everyone is well. Is it too late in the year to air layer an satsuki azalea? Current date is June 13th. In Charlotte NC. Zone 8a.
 
Do not believe it’s too late. Usually these can root fairly quickly if done correctly.

Can you describe the scope of work being attempted?

Cheers
DSD sends
 
Do not believe it’s too late. Usually these can root fairly quickly if done correctly.

Can you describe the scope of work being attempted?

Cheers
DSD sends
I will be air layering a 3 inch wide shoot from a mature satsuki azalea. Wet spaghnum moss, hormone powder, plastic bag, and wire. Classic air layering technique
 
Air layering a 3” diameter azalea shoot is a pretty large operation.

Yet if done properly and the tree is healthy, it should turn out fine.

However… you haven’t posted your approximate location and USDA Plant Hardiness Zone. So I can’t say this for sure.

Please click on your icon atop the page, then account details and scroll down and enter this information to can help answer questions with more specific knowledge.

Cheers
DSD sends.
 
Air layering a 3” diameter azalea shoot is a pretty large operation.

Yet if done properly and the tree is healthy, it should turn out fine.

However… you haven’t posted your approximate location and USDA Plant Hardiness Zone. So I can’t say this for sure.

Please click on your icon atop the page, then account details and scroll down and enter this information to can help answer questions with more specific knowledge.

Cheers
DSD sends.
See if that helped
 
If you want to layer off a branch, just take a plastic plant pot, cut it open halfway at one side, also make a hole of the branch in the bottom. Then half-fill it with your preferred potting soil, then slide it around the branch. Fill it up. And use some wire to make it tight. Use sphagnum and burlap if needed to make sure the soil doesn't fall out on top. One worry would be that if your pot is near 90 degrees rotated, the rain may not enter the pot. But usually that can be solved.
Then wait for 2 years and you have a new plant. Then just cut it off and repot it in a normal plant pot that is not cut open.
Maybe you can remove it after 1 or 1.5 years. But why not wait for 2 full growing seasons?

No need to wound the plant in this case, as the branches are thin. This is an alternative to taking cuttings. For example, when you are not good at rooting cuttings. Or your growth is too short. Or you just don't want to do any special maintenance.

You say you want to root a branch that has 3inch diameter. Yeah, it can be worth it to root this branch, so when you prune it off eventually, it has roots and you get another plant that would otherwise take you many many years to grow from scratch.
I have seen people air layer in that case by wounding. I have never tried this myself. But the sooner you start the air layer, the better. And again I think it is best to create a large area for the new roots to grow, and to keep it on more than 2 years.
I saw it done in a way so the tree started to look like a marriage cake: with a second pot suspended higher up around the main trunk.
I believe this was literally a second pot with kanuma. I haven't seen it been done with plastic, like a more western traditional air layer would usually be done.

Not wounding at all, just putting a pot around a 3 inch branch for 3 to 4 years, and to then see if there are roots. Yeah, it takes many years. Your tree looks silly. But there is not much risk. Of course, it means the branch needs to stay on that tree for that duration. Not sure if too lignified wood won't root, but generally the darkness will cause roots to grow. Or at least I believe that is the trigger. Might also be the moisture.
Azaleas can have air roots in very humid conditions.
 
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If you want to layer off a branch, just take a plastic plant pot, cut it open halfway at one side, also make a hole of the branch in the bottom. Then half-fill it with your preferred potting soil, then slide it around the branch. Fill it up. And use some wire to make it tight. Use sphagnum and burlap if needed to make sure the soil doesn't fall out on top. One worry would be that if your pot is near 90 degrees rotated, the rain may not enter the pot. But usually that can be solved.
Then wait for 2 years and you have a new plant. Then just cut it off and repot it in a normal plant pot that is not cut open.
Maybe you can remove it after 1 or 1.5 years. But why not wait for 2 full growing seasons?

No need to wound the plant in this case, as the branches are thin. This is an alternative to taking cuttings. For example, when you are not good at rooting cuttings. Or your growth is too short. Or you just don't want to do any special maintenance.

You say you want to root a branch that has 3inch diameter. Yeah, it can be worth it to root this branch, so when you prune it off eventually, it has roots and you get another plant that would otherwise take you many many years to grow from scratch.
I have seen people air layer in that case by wounding. I have never tried this myself. But the sooner you start the air layer, the better. And again I think it is best to create a large area for the new roots to grow, and to keep it on more than 2 years.
I saw it done in a way so the tree started to look like a marriage cake: with a second pot suspended higher up around the main trunk.
this was the first round of layer. It’s still on. Looking to do another here soon.
 

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Yeah, the plastic sits not well for me. I'd be worried about it not breathing or getting too hot in the sun. But indeed that's the way branches are traditionally air layered on trees, after wounding.
It couldn't say on for years. Which of course is why you ask if it is too late. Yeah, the growing season left is probably way too short for you to be able to remove this branch in say September.

I prefer the second pot, no wounding, thinner branch method. But I assume you specifically want to air layer the thickest branches.
 
Thanks for the location data!

Azaleas are reputed to be quick to airlayer, eight weeks. Yet this is a big on. If the tree doesn’t root well by September, plan on wintering over… in NC in 7b the layer could winter over no worries, just bubble wrap the airlayer and ensure it’s kept wet. Likely not an issue in Charlotte.

The pot method described by @Glaucus does have a distinct advantage. It’s that if positioned properly at the bottom of of a pot, once separated, one can gently pull the pot off and place into a larger permanent grow pot with media. Then wire to stabilize….

Best
DSD sends
 
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