bonsai barry
Omono
- http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=Yn1FiRw2JBo
This post is an offshoot on one about developing black pine. One member (sorry, can't remember who) made an excellent recommendation of this you tube video. I learned some things about JBP that I hadn't considered. I took notes and jotted down the time marker in the video where the statement occured. I thought others might be interested. Sorry about the length of this post. If you investigate and find I've made an error please correct (I watch the episode at 4:30 AM) - "Distribution of strength: Strength comes from roots, needle mass allocates where that strengths go." (first few minutes)
- Black pine grow on the coast, red pine grow at mid elevation and white pine grow in mountains. Therefore, black pine have adapted to two flushes of growth.
- Balance of energy through needle plucking:
- Weaken significant branch: Ten to twelve pair of needles
- Needles are solar panels, photo panels photo synthesize, photo synthesis generates food… that’s what feeds the roots and feeds the development of the tree. (9:30)
- Needle Plucking can be done at anytime of the year, it doesn’t matter. 10:00
- If we are going to candle in the summer we must prepare by fertilizing (10:45)
- The goal of decandling is for smaller is for smaller needles and closer internodes (11:30)
- We don’t decandle for back budding… that is totally wrong. If you want back budding don’t decandle it. (12:15)
- Time of decandling depends on where we’re located, the size of the tree, what we’re trying to accomplish. (14:50)
- When we’re fertilizing we need two to three applications, four to six weeks intervals. Let’s assume we’re using organic fertilizer… which we should all be using. (15:00)
- Which component of fertilizer adds to foliage development and growth? Nitrogen? What element is most easily decomposed and water soluble? Nitrogen. So we can safely say that all Nitrogen will be flushed out of the soil in four week to six weeks. (16:00)
- If short needles are desired then the nitrogen should be flushed out when the tree is cut (otherwise it will encourage the growth of longer needles. Therefore the last application of fertilizier should happen no sooner than four weeks before you plan to decandle. (16:50)
- Black pine have strong roots, you can start fertilizing earlier than when you see above soil growth. (17:00)
- If you desire strong and aggressive growth then fertilize three times. If the tree is more mature and balanced then only fertilize twice. (13:50)
- What is candle pruning? Balance the energy by cutting needles. There are many theories on how and when, but [Neil suggests] who can do all that, so let’s simplify. Let’s cut needles at the same time. All sizes should be cut, even undeveloped candles… If we damage the undeveloped candle it will produce the second flush of needs, full grown and mature. (21:00)
- If you leave the undeveloped bud alone, it will sit there for five years without changing. If you cut it, it will produce a second flush of fully mature growth. (21:50)
- We don’t want to break the candle in half or whatnot, we want to cut it all of the way off. (22:00)
- At the same time that we candle prune, we need to needle pluck (22:20). We’ve built up its strength with fertilizer, we’ve removed its strength by removing its candles we will further decrease its strength and reduce the gap between the strong and weak areas (22:45) by needle plucking six to eight pairs (a minor adjustment). Note: I’m unclear if we pluck six to eight pair or keep six to eight pair. I assume he means keep ‘em.)
- Summer>> Fall, we will get multiple buds coming from the cut sites. If we fertilize at this point or remove all buds at this time, we allow more energy which will produce more growth than desired so don’t touch. Don’t touch it. Don’t touch it. Don’t touch your tree now.
- Fall Fertilizer is the most important fertilizing time of the year. … at least two applications. Three signs that its okay to fertilize without encouraging vigorous growth to the needs: 1) the needles have hardened off and are sharp; 2) color becomes darker; 3) stabilization at the base of the needle (firmly fixed on the branch). Still five or six buds at cut site. (approx. 26:00)
- Fall is when we enjoy the fruits of our labor; that’s why all the shows in Japan are in the fall. (Note: Is it true that all of the shows are in the fall?) (27:45)
- In the fall, bud selection (28:15)… or shoot selection. What are we selecting? Direction. Lateral emerging buds. (Much easier than wiring lateral movement). Shoot must be strong, with equal strength. Two buds of equivalent strength (more than two will cause bud swelling). Shape of the crotch between two shoots (32:00) looking for acute angles in the crotch.
- In the weakest area keep the strongest shoot to help close the gap in strength. (34:30)
- Needle pluck again in the fall (35:00). Never remove all old needles or you will weaken the tree until it can’t survive stress. So what do old needles do? Allocation of hormones. If removed, the
- 38:00) New needles give us photosysnthesis. Old needle provide hormone balance
- Bottom needles are the first two go first for a clean line in the tree (for aesthetics).; 2) remove needles between buds, 3) if more needle can be remove then remove needles that cross over (for aesthetics).
- Annual plan: needle pluck, fertilize, shoot select. Repeat. Black pine become very, very easy 9after initial training (40:00)
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