Repotting vs up potting: disturbing roots vs chopping roots

I want them to look like this:

Early: Late:
View attachment 100352View attachment 100351

I've only ever done it or seen it done in a box, but I'd love to see it successfully carried out in a colander. The trick is promoting long, straight, radial roots - when they hit the end of the box, they wrap underneath and grow below the board.

I'm not particularly interested in doing the ebihara technique. I just want a decent set of lateral roots that look natural and appealing. So I plant on a board in a colander or pond basket to achieve that.

If I were going to fully Ebihara a tree, I'd probably plant a tree on a board, in a colander for one year so that I would have many roots to chose from. Then I would move it to a normal pot and continue the procedure as explained above.

Just my opinion.
 
I'm not particularly interested in doing the ebihara technique. I just want a decent set of lateral roots that look natural and appealing. So I plant on a board in a colander or pond basket to achieve that.

If I were going to fully Ebihara a tree, I'd probably plant a tree on a board, in a colander for one year so that I would have many roots to chose from. Then I would move it to a normal pot and continue the procedure as explained above.

Just my opinion.

Seems reasonable. Maybe it would work.
 
Seems reasonable. Maybe it would work.

Maybe. The overall point I was making wasn't entirely ebihara related. To say that colanders or pond baskets aren't beneficial to deciduous trees was what I was arguing against. Considering how often peope say that you can't skimp when it comes to root health, i would think anything that increased the ramification of the root system would be beneficial.
 
Maybe. The overall point I was making wasn't entirely ebihara related. To say that colanders or pond baskets aren't beneficial to deciduous trees was what I was arguing against. Considering how often peope say that you can't skimp when it comes to root health, i would think anything that increased the ramification of the root system would be beneficial.

Sorry to distract you from your main point. You got me thinking about a new twist on the Ebihara technique.
 
Like stapling mesh right around the outside of the board...

And calling it a day.

I think Burying the roots well is key.

With a colander, it seems they have less tendency to have one run off and get huge....slow game, Great results.

Same results!

Sorce
 
One thing that hadn't been mentioned is soil particle size. Small particles will help produce a finer more ramified root system. Larger, more open soil particles yield a coarser, but more faster growing root system.

I've used bonsai soil on top of the board to promote more rootlets. But I put larger pumice under the board to promote faster growing, thicker roots (to enhance fusing) once they get there.
I'm not particularly interested in doing the ebihara technique. I just want a decent set of lateral roots that look natural and appealing. So I plant on a board in a colander or pond basket to achieve that.

If I were going to fully Ebihara a tree, I'd probably plant a tree on a board, in a colander for one year so that I would have many roots to chose from. Then I would move it to a normal pot and continue the procedure as explained above.

Just my opinion.
i have done the Ebihara thing, but without using a colander, and I can assure you it produced tons of roots, right at the base of the tree. I repeat, there were so many new roots there, there could not possibly be more! And I used a pot, not a box. Colanders are just not necessary. I'm sure they wouldn't hurt, but I can't see that they would add anything.


I guess the only way to settle this is for someone to run an experiment with several in colanders and several in boxes or pots and see if there's any meaningful difference.
 
@ AdairM
How do you ensure moisture to the larger substrate below the board? It seems like the water would almost never reach many of the roots directly below the board. Is this never a concern or is there a simple solution? Very educational info for me so thank all of you for sharing.
 
How do you ensure moisture to the larger substrate below the board? It seems like the water would almost never reach many of the roots directly below the board. Is this never a concern or is there a simple solution? Very educational info for me so thank all of you for sharing.

Why not.The board should not be jammed against the sides of the pot.If it is pumice or scoria under the board,the substrate will catch water and hold it, as well.Or did I miss something?
 
Why not.The board should not be jammed against the sides of the pot.If it is pumice or scoria under the board,the substrate will catch water and hold it, as well.Or did I miss something?

Ever used an umbrella? It doesn't reach the edge of the air but things under it seem to stay dry. How long would you propose watering to get even watering to the dead center point directly under the board? Sorry, sarcasm is my default personal defense mechanism.
 
I've only done the Ebihara technique in a pot. Water hits the board, runs off the edge of the boarding on the pumice on to the bottom of the pot. From there, it goes along the bottom until it finds it's way to a drain hole.

If it were in a colander, the water would pretty much go straight down out of the colander, and most of the soil under the board would never get wet.

Sounds to me like another reason not to use a colander when using the Ebihara technique!
 
@ AdairM
How do you ensure moisture to the larger substrate below the board? It seems like the water would almost never reach many of the roots directly below the board. Is this never a concern or is there a simple solution? Very educational info for me so thank all of you for sharing.
Could soak it....
 
Ever used an umbrella?

It don't rain down there by him! Lol.

I know what you mean....your legs may even get wet....but your head stays dry.

I worry about that watering trees without a board in a colander.

If you can't flood it.....you can't wet it.

Sorce
 
Ever used an umbrella? It doesn't reach the edge of the air but things under it seem to stay dry. How long would you propose watering to get even watering to the dead center point directly under the board? Sorry, sarcasm is my default personal defense mechanism.

What exactly are you worried about under the board? No roots there. That's because of the board. Save your colander for spaghetti!!
 
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What exactly are you worried about under the board? No roots there. That's because of the board. Save your colander for spaghetti!!
Oh really?

Once the roots hit the edge of board, they head straight down. Then, once they hit the bottom of the pot, they spread out across the bottom. Tons of roots under the board!
 
How long we talking on this board?
Usually leave it for two years. Then dig it up and prune the roots around the perimeter of the board, and adjust, rearrange the roots on the board, and bury again.

After 4 years, may need to replace the board. Solid boards last longer than plywood.
 
Noone has mentioned wicking action in the soil, which probaby will pull at least some water under a board.
I have a couple mini wicking beds with trees to see how they work and so far so good. They need the reservoir filled about every.other week. Wb's work great for veggies and for me at least my baby trees are happy too. The water level and moisture control how deep the roots go and they dont grow a deep taproot. I think they are worth trying and more people should use them. Imagine only watering every other week..and growing shallow roots because they stop growing deeper when the find it too wet. So they do something like colanders and air pruning but water does it all. Since the water goes below and is wicked up in the soil, the roots can find a constant level they like. The wb idea seems logical. And after four months the trees are all alive. My trees in aquaponics also grow roots in a similar way, and they are thriving.
 
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