Repotting Trident Maples after 1st Flush

[groffralph]

My Trident Maples broke bud early this year due to the warm winter and I didn't get to repot some of the trees that I would have liked to get into new soil. Would I be ok to repot after the first flush hardens off? At this point it looks like it will be mid March.

 

[Mikecheck123]

Depends on what you're trying to do. Gently raking out the outsides of the root ball and putting in new soil should be ok.

Doing an aggressive bare root report and root prune is probably too risky. You missed the window for that.

 

[Cadillactaste]

Why do you feel it needs repotted?

 

[Shibui]

My answer depends on how old and established the tridents are. I've experimented with bare root and root prune tridents right through summer and so far young trees have survived even severe root prune. The leaves often turn brown and drop off immediately after summer repot but then they sprout a new crop of shoots a few weeks later.
It is possible to repot tridents in summer but there is always some risk so it depends whether the tree really needs repotting and whether the risk of not repotting outweighs the risk of doing it at this time of year.

 

[PaulH]

It is possible to repot tridents in the summer if you do a complete defoliation first.

 

[rockm]

It is possible to repot tridents in the summer if you do a complete defoliation first.

I would think an aggressive root pruning following a complete defoliation of the tree would kill it. It's likely one or the other once the first flush has pushed.

 

[groffralph]

Why do you feel it needs repotted?

I have about 20, not all need repotted. Some will be up potted, some are going to be field grown, and some have compacted or poor soil composition.

 

[PaulH]

aggressive root pruning following a complete defoliation of the tree would kill it

Nope. I've done it several times. Kathy Shaner said it is done in Japan to slow down vigorous tridents. It also works with live oaks and other strong growing species.

 

[Shibui]

Nope. I've done it several times. Kathy Shaner said it is done in Japan to slow down vigorous tridents. It also works with live oaks and other strong growing species.

I have also tried this on a number of occasions (but only with smaller and younger plants that don't matter to see what would happen) and have found it to be successful too. As mentioned earlier most that I have root pruned hard when in leaf soon turn brown and then drop the leaves so it made sense to me to short circuit that by defoliating.
I am not yet ready to try out of season repotting on older or valuable trees but no problem with less valuable trees if necessary.

 

[rockm]

Nope. I've done it several times. Kathy Shaner said it is done in Japan to slow down vigorous tridents. It also works with live oaks and other strong growing species.

I've root pruned Japanese maples in late spring after leaves harden off. Haven't defoliated at the same time, though. Haven't done either with tridents. I think that root pruning with mature leaves would really be a problem with tridents, but doing both a root prune and defoliation at the same time pulls a lot of resources from a tree.

Would never do it with a collected tree. Just me though...

 

[Maiden69]

My understanding is that once buds swell and leaves start to emerge sugars and starches have already left the rootzone and moved up the trunk? If this is so, then some root pruning at this time shouldn't be a huge detriment right? Then the new leaves will produce the energy needed for root reconstruction. I don't think a full bareroot would be an option though, or at least it don't make sense for me at that time. Bareroot with no leaf would be fine, because the tree will only flush out the leaves it can support with the energy it has, but once the tree flushes out, it will need some roots to at least maintain that flush before recovering. Or am I wrong to think so?

 

[Adamski77]

My understanding is that once buds swell and leaves start to emerge sugars and starches have already left the rootzone and moved up the trunk? If this is so, then some root pruning at this time shouldn't be a huge detriment right? Then the new leaves will produce the energy needed for root reconstruction. I don't think a full bareroot would be an option though, or at least it don't make sense for me at that time. Bareroot with no leaf would be fine, because the tree will only flush out the leaves it can support with the energy it has, but once the tree flushes out, it will need some roots to at least maintain that flush before recovering. Or am I wrong to think so?

I think it comes down to supplying water/nutrients to canopy, which at this point of time has quite high requirements... if you go too hard on the rootball you basically disconnecting fuel tank from the engine. Not expert in tridents... and I know they are hard... so maybe more tolerant to this.

 

[groffralph]

Thank you all! I don't plan on bare rooting any of them, just minimal root work and I don't intend on defoliating at this time.

 

[Shibui]

Most species will cope with transplant with minimal root reduction.
Every garden tree that is planted in the garden is a transplant with minimal root work and the vast majority of those survive the process. No difference with trees for bonsai.
Don't be too frightened to touch the roots when up potting. New, different soil surrounding a dense existing root ball can cause much more problems than teasing out the roots a little. Teasing out some outer roots allows the 2 different soils to combine a little and allows the roots to enter the new soil type. Results are so much better with some teasing out of roots, especially if the tree is becoming root bound.

 

[JudyB]

I too have repotted Trident in summer with defoliation. I usually left small inner leaves on, just so they could get a head start. Had no problems with this technique. Aftercare is probably important.

 

[groffralph]

Thank you both for the input. I have a greenhouse and an indoor grow tent if needed for aftercare.

 

[discusmike]

Yes it can be done, after care is important, shade and being careful not to over water until the tree begins to respond