quick question

Tinyjames

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So I fertilizer once a month with Nurako 5-5-5 (just a pinch on the top) but my question is can I use seedweed extract at every watering or is that also just once a month ?
 

rockm

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So I fertilizer once a month with Nurako 5-5-5 (just a pinch on the top) but my question is can I use seedweed extract at every watering or is that also just once a month ?
All this depends on what you want to do with your tree.

With the above practice, you're working at a bit at cross purposes. Slow release ferts are used mostly in developed bonsai, while seaweed extract is aimed at optimizing a lot of growth. Once a month fertilizing is a rather long time between application (depending on the release time of the special fert you're using) Most bonsai folks developing trees are a bit more aggressive. I "feed" every two weeks with full-strength general purpose water soluble fert for developing trees. For established trees, I use slow release pellets (BioGold original).

BTW, you probably know this but, with ferts you're not really feeding anything, as plants make their own food. You're providing the elemental building blocks that the plant uses to make that food.

If you are trying to get a lot of growth to use to develop the tree (increase trunk diameter, nebari, branching, develop apex, etc.) you're better off with a stronger fertilizing program. Plain old general purpose water soluble fertilizers like Miracle Grow are much better than slow release low N-P-K ferts like the one you're using (And likely paying extra for). 5-5-5 NPK ratio is low for developing trees.

The seaweed is fine. It can help in any case by supplementing micronutrients that may be in lower levels in general purpose ferts.
 
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All this depends on what you want to do with your tree.

With the above practice, you're working at a bit at cross purposes. Slow release ferts are used mostly in developed bonsai, while seaweed extract is aimed at optimizing a lot of growth. Once a month fertilizing is a rather long time between application (depending on the release time of the special fert you're using) Most bonsai folks developing trees are a bit more aggressive. I "feed" every two weeks with full-strength general purpose water soluble fert for developing trees. For established trees, I use slow release pellets (BioGold original).

BTW, you probably know this but, with ferts you're not really feeding anything, as plants make their own food. You're providing the elemental building blocks that the plant uses to make that food.

If you are trying to get a lot of growth to use to develop the tree (increase trunk diameter, nebari, branching, develop apex, etc.) you're better off with a stronger fertilizing program. Plain old general purpose water soluble fertilizers like Miracle Grow are much better than slow release low N-P-K ferts like the one you're using (And likely paying extra for). 5-5-5 NPK ratio is low for developing trees.

The seaweed is fine. It can help in any case by supplementing micronutrients that may be in lower levels in general purpose ferts.
Great answer and actually very rarely discussed in fertilising guides!

Most of the time the 'bonsai' we have still require a lot of growth and development (certainly for me anyway), I could spend £1000's on 'special' bonsai fertiliser; or £10's on general purpose and actually achieve better results.
 

Tinyjames

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Thank you both for the reply

My trees are all young so I should swap out the Naruko with a good liquid fertilizer every two weeks
This clears a lot of confusion for me. I thought I was feeding correctly with the fertilizer I was using I truly didn’t know any better.
 

rockm

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Thank you both for the reply

My trees are all young so I should swap out the Naruko with a good liquid fertilizer every two weeks
This clears a lot of confusion for me. I thought I was feeding correctly with the fertilizer I was using I truly didn’t know any better.
If you really want to push new growth, you can use both the Naruko and a liquid fert (every two weeks, or even weekly) in the heaviest growth period in spring and mid summer.

Typically trees slow new extension growth as summer progresses and their growth shifts to other priorities. Later in summer (end of July and into Aug. and Sept.) trees are preparing for winter, adding new "woody" growth on top (thickening the wood on trunks, branches and twigs instead of new green growth) and new roots below. Sometimes, in the hottest part of the summer, some trees go a bit dormant and just stop. They pick up again as weather cools.
 

pandacular

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Typically trees slow new extension growth as summer progresses and their growth shifts to other priorities. Later in summer (end of July and into Aug. and Sept.) trees are preparing for winter, adding new "woody" growth on top (thickening the wood on trunks, branches and twigs instead of new green growth) and new roots below
regarding this part, I've seen some--particularly Ryan Neil--suggest dialing back fertilizer in the summer and ramping it back up in the fall to drive vascular growth (roots and woody parts, as you say). Sounds like a pretty similar scheme, but just wanted to point out that many folks fertilize well into fall.

Any suggestions on a liquid or water soluble, organic fertilizer for trees in development? I have slow release fertilizers, and have tried a mix that a local bonsai shop makes, but I'm interested in other options
 

rockm

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regarding this part, I've seen some--particularly Ryan Neil--suggest dialing back fertilizer in the summer and ramping it back up in the fall to drive vascular growth (roots and woody parts, as you say). Sounds like a pretty similar scheme, but just wanted to point out that many folks fertilize well into fall.

Any suggestions on a liquid or water soluble, organic fertilizer for trees in development? I have slow release fertilizers, and have tried a mix that a local bonsai shop makes, but I'm interested in other options
Miracle Grow...whatever's one sale at Walmart for the liquid. Organic -- I use Biogold, but there are other pelletized organics, as well.
 

pandacular

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Ah, I was hoping to find a liquid or water soluble fertilizer that is organic. But that might not be feasible! I'll do some more digging, and we'll see how long I stay invested in fully organic gardening.
 

pandacular

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Thanks for the recommendation, Jelle! Looks like exactly what I'm looking for...if only it was affordable on this side of the ocean.

I've high-jacked this thread enough, I think I'll make a new thread about this at some point if I can't find an existing one.
 

leatherback

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Thanks for the recommendation, Jelle! Looks like exactly what I'm looking for...if only it was affordable on this side of the ocean.

I've high-jacked this thread enough, I think I'll make a new thread about this at some point if I can't find an existing one.
Hm.. It should be, it is often used in the USA. (then again, affordable for me is 25-35 E / gallon or so
 

pandacular

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You're totally right, I was just looking in the wrong places! Do you supplement with any phosphorous, as it seems to have none.
 

Wulfskaar

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I have some Neptune's Harvest fish and seaweed (2-3-1) that I've been using lately once per week.

It's fairly weak, so I'm wondering if I'm not doing enough for my very young trees. They seem happy enough but could they be growing better?
 

Shibui

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I have some Neptune's Harvest fish and seaweed (2-3-1) that I've been using lately once per week.

It's fairly weak, so I'm wondering if I'm not doing enough for my very young trees. They seem happy enough but could they be growing better?
Fert ratings are more about the ratios than what your plants get from it. Mixing rate is the key to what your plants actually get.
2-3-1 mixed at 4 teaspoons per gallon supplies exactly the same nutrients as 8-12-4 mixed at 1 teaspoon per gallon.

If you are using the fert at recommended rate and frequency you should be getting reasonable growth but growth can only be as good as the lowest limiting factor. Normally for accelerated growth we would use a higher N product (where N is higher than the P and K)
Also check that water, temperature, pot size, and other factors are not the factors limiting growth. If the tree doesn't have enough water no amount of fert will make it grow.

I also prefer to use a range of different fertilizers in rotation on the grounds that if one is limited in one or more nutrients the others should then make up for that deficiency.
 

Wulfskaar

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Fert ratings are more about the ratios than what your plants get from it. Mixing rate is the key to what your plants actually get.
2-3-1 mixed at 4 teaspoons per gallon supplies exactly the same nutrients as 8-12-4 mixed at 1 teaspoon per gallon.

If you are using the fert at recommended rate and frequency you should be getting reasonable growth but growth can only be as good as the lowest limiting factor. Normally for accelerated growth we would use a higher N product (where N is higher than the P and K)
Also check that water, temperature, pot size, and other factors are not the factors limiting growth. If the tree doesn't have enough water no amount of fert will make it grow.

I also prefer to use a range of different fertilizers in rotation on the grounds that if one is limited in one or more nutrients the others should then make up for that deficiency.
This isn't the first time you've schooled me on fertilizer. Thank you! I really appreciate it. 😎
 
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