Question on ground layering new Maple

[Likebull1]

I went to a new nursery today about 20 minutes from my house and I went specifically for a juniper I saw there last week.
I was walking around and saw about 20 of so what I believe to be cut leaf Maples. They all had pretty straight trunks except this one. The nebari is a complete mess but it was a great deal for only $30 due to the fact it wasn't entered into inventory yet. I definitely want to get it into some better soil next year but I was wondering if I should ground layer it before I repot it or let it recover/grow/airlayer.
I'm still pretty new to the maple game so any advice will be appreciated.

 

[Shibui]

Japanese maple leaves come in a huge range of shapes. Some are quite broad, some have lobes divided down to the leaf stalk like this one and some have the lobes even more divided.
When I think cut leaf maple I think of the more deeply dissected types which are mostly weeping types but I guess that's just semantics. The leaves on your tree are attractive and that's what counts here.
My guess is those trees are seed grown which means no grafts to contend with. They should also layer well.
Nebari mess is very common for commercial grown trees because of the way they are produced. Straight trunks is also ubiquitous because most buyers want straight for their landscapes trees. Only crazy people want bendy trunks. Bends are usually culled well before they reach the retailer. You were lucky to find one.

I'd layer without repotting because the intact roots and intact branches should help roots form faster and better.
Not sure why you want to repot. After layering, the trunk will be on new roots which you will pot into whatever soil you choose. The roots will then be redundant so won't need repotting. just toss the stump away after taking the layer.

 

[Likebull1]

Japanese maple leaves come in a huge range of shapes. Some are quite broad, some have lobes divided down to the leaf stalk like this one and some have the lobes even more divided.
When I think cut leaf maple I think of the more deeply dissected types which are mostly weeping types but I guess that's just semantics. The leaves on your tree are attractive and that's what counts here.
My guess is those trees are seed grown which means no grafts to contend with. They should also layer well.
Nebari mess is very common for commercial grown trees because of the way they are produced. Straight trunks is also ubiquitous because most buyers want straight for their landscapes trees. Only crazy people want bendy trunks. Bends are usually culled well before they reach the retailer. You were lucky to find one.

I'd layer without repotting because the intact roots and intact branches should help roots form faster and better.
Not sure why you want to repot. After layering, the trunk will be on new roots which you will pot into whatever soil you choose. The roots will then be redundant so won't need repotting. just toss the stump away after taking the layer.

Thank you very much for the detailed response! It helped me understand exactly what to do. I just have one more question if you don't mind.
I plan on taking the later below that super ugly root because I live the bend in the trunk. When would be the best time to work on removing it?
Should I clip it at ground level while layering it out should I remove it after I layer it to make sure the tree is healthy as possible?
And thanks again. I know the questions might sound stupid but I'm very new to this process.

 

[Paradox]

Thank you very much for the detailed response! It helped me understand exactly what to do. I just have one more question if you don't mind.
I plan on taking the later below that super ugly root because I live the bend in the trunk. When would be the best time to work on removing it?
Should I clip it at ground level while layering it out should I remove it after I layer it to make sure the tree is healthy as possible?
And thanks again. I know the questions might sound stupid but I'm very new to this process.

The best time to do a ground layer in Pennsylvania will be late next spring after the leaves harden off, probably June.

I agree with shibui, don't repot or prune beforehand. Just let it grow and let the roots and leaves do their work for the air layer.

You can cut that high root when you do the air layer as it will make it difficult to do the layer. I would cut it at the trunk and at the soil level to get it out of there. Put cut paste on the wound.

Google air layer a maple to find videos about it so you get the idea. There are also lots of threads here, probably in the maple section.

To do the layer, get a piece of 1/8 inch screen (plastic craft screen work great for this) and build a collar around the trunk so that it is above the planned cut at least an inch.

Cut the trunk, make sure to cut deep enough to remove all the cambium layer. Put rooting hormone on the top of the cut where you cut the bark. Put the collar around the trunk, fill with wet spagnum moss. Keep that moss moist but not sopping wet and wait.

If it works, you'll see roots in a couple of months. Let it grow until Labor day then separate the air layer by cutting below the new roots and plant in a good training pot, not a bonsai pot yet. You want it a bit deeper while the roots grow more. At that time you can prune back the top a little.

Give it extra protection over the winter. Don't let it freeze but it still needs dormancy so below 40 F.

 

[Shibui]

When would be the best time to work on removing it?
Should I clip it at ground level while layering it out should I remove it after I layer it to make sure the tree is healthy as possible?

You can remove a root any time of year provided the tree has plenty of other roots to sustain it. In this case I would have no problem chopping that root. I suspect the tree will hardly notice it is gone.
The only issue is that there's probably already some inverse taper below that high root. Trunks always thicken faster above a root than below so this is common with all trees. You may be able to correct that taper over a few years as the new roots kick in and start to thicken the trunk more at root level.

 

[SeanS]

Thank you very much for the detailed response! It helped me understand exactly what to do. I just have one more question if you don't mind.
I plan on taking the later below that super ugly root because I live the bend in the trunk. When would be the best time to work on removing it?
Should I clip it at ground level while layering it out should I remove it after I layer it to make sure the tree is healthy as possible?
And thanks again. I know the questions might sound stupid but I'm very new to this process.

I’d layer it here if it were my tree. Yellow lines are the new roots

 

[Likebull1]

I’d layer it here if it were my tree. Yellow lines are the new roots

View attachment 564714

Yep that's exactly where I was thinking too. Luckily there seems to be zero reverse taper where the root comes out of the side higher up