coltranem
Chumono
I am not sure what they have now but bonsai west did have some scots pines when I was there in october. They have mugos too.
Purchased Nursery JBP
- Thread starter girv
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0soyoung
Imperial Masterpiece
Tree 'harden' to freezing by being exposed to progressively lower temperatures. This happens in the normal course of fall --> winter. Alpine species like Douglas fir (pseudotsuga) and logdepole pine (p. contorta latifolia) rapidly develop tolerances for air temperatures to below -40F/C and root temperatures down to -30F.
Garden books list p. thunbergii being okay in USDA zone 5 (-5F to -10F). In a pot, the roots will ultimately tolerate about (one zone higer. So I don't think you need to worry until overnight lows are touching on -5F anyway - that is, as long as temperatures are steadily progressing lower. You may want to hustle it into shelter if a blue nor-easter is in the forecast, @girv
Garden books list p. thunbergii being okay in USDA zone 5 (-5F to -10F). In a pot, the roots will ultimately tolerate about (one zone higer. So I don't think you need to worry until overnight lows are touching on -5F anyway - that is, as long as temperatures are steadily progressing lower. You may want to hustle it into shelter if a blue nor-easter is in the forecast, @girv
Leo in N E Illinois
The Professor
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I bring my JBP in when nights begin to dip below +20 F, about -12 C. I store them in a well house that hovers between 32 F and 40 F (0 C to +4 C)
I repotted this tree last spring, it did well all year. Then in February of this year I chopped the upper section off. I overwintered it in my bulkhead per the prior suggestions. I put the tree backout side in mid-march when temps started getting warmer. Almost within a few days, the needles started to turn brown. I'm not sure if this is from needle cast (I read through the nefflecast post), over watering or something else. It also went from my bulkhead in complete darkness right into mostly full sun. Could this have been the issue? Do I need to slowly acclimate the trees back to outside? I tried to do research on this subject and didn't find much. Will post pictures in a minute.
Some damage seems to start from the tip, other needles, from the middle.
Some damage seems to start from the tip, other needles, from the middle.
So this tree is still doing well. Significantly reduced and repotted over the past few years and has a sacrifice leader and lots of lower branch options. I have been searching for a while to find info on JBP chop healing and cannot find information that I remember stumbling upon a while back, looking for any help. I chopped this tree back and left a few inches from the next whorl, but what is the best way to reduce to promte the fastest and cleanest healing? I know there have been posts/articles on this, but for the life of me cannot find them. Anyone have any pointers?
sorce
Nonsense Rascal
There's a thing you do. Carving a wang onto the end.
Someone should post the article.
Sorce
Bonsai Nut
Nuttier than your average Nut
The best way to get a scar to heal is to have strong healthy growth above the scar. If you prune off the apex of the tree, the pruning scar usually won't heal unless there is a strong branch directly at the pruning site, and you let the branch continue to grow, which strengthens the vascular network at the prune site and will thicken the bark. Depending on the pruning being done, in many cases it is simply more effective to leave a natural-looking jin instead of trying to carve out the pruning site and trying to get it to heal over.
