Trueblackpercula
Shohin
A couple more
Prunus Incisa help
- Thread starter Trueblackpercula
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leatherback
The Treedeemer
Maybe you should ask your parents to tell you about the flowers and the bees?
Yup, cherries.
Trueblackpercula
Shohin
I had no idea that incisa would give off cherries. Wow that’s
Leo in N E Illinois
The Professor
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Cherries, that is why they are called cherries. LOL. Just teasing.
Your pot is lovely. I personally would go with side A. To me when glaze does not cover the whole surface, the pot feels "unfinished". Now I do own quite a few pots that have the "unfinished" look, but I usually display the side with the more complete glaze coverage.
It is personal taste. Also, Foot centered in the middle of the front, or the front placed between the feet, this is another "debated issue". You can do it either way.
Your pot is lovely. I personally would go with side A. To me when glaze does not cover the whole surface, the pot feels "unfinished". Now I do own quite a few pots that have the "unfinished" look, but I usually display the side with the more complete glaze coverage.
It is personal taste. Also, Foot centered in the middle of the front, or the front placed between the feet, this is another "debated issue". You can do it either way.
They are cherries. They’ll develop into very small black fruit. You can pretty much ignore them in terms of what you do to the tree. If you’re planning to do work on it, a lot of people would recommend cutting them off so the tree doesn’t use resources in developing them.
Trueblackpercula
Shohin
Well I did the best that I could as this is my second time with repotting and doing what I considered major work to a tree. I used akadama, pumice and a little lava rock for the soil boy this stuff is messy. I split the tree and wrapped it with raffia and black double sided 3m tape and wrapped three 4mm wire on the main structure of the tree. I went for informal upright / literate style and I think it came out good for this years work. Only time will tell if she takes well to the new styling.
Looking forward to hearing your thoughts.
Michael
Looking forward to hearing your thoughts.
Michael
Trueblackpercula
Shohin
A few more pictures.
Boy it took me a little of two hours from start to finish.
Michael
Boy it took me a little of two hours from start to finish.
Michael
ForestInnPottery
Seed
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Wow! She’s looking good! 
Trueblackpercula
Shohin
Can’t thank you enough for the amazing pot as they compliment each otherWow! She’s looking good!
Michael
leatherback
The Treedeemer
To be honest, I am surprised you did a repot and a trunk-split-bend on the same day. in fact, I am surprised you split the trunk at all. I love cherries amongst other things, for the smooth bark. I sure hope this lives.
Trueblackpercula
Shohin
Thanks for the input. I did make it clear on this thread that was my intention and not a single person told me there was a risk. I did everything from what I have read at the right time of year and don’t understand what I did wrong.
To be honest, I am surprised you did a repot and a trunk-split-bend on the same day. in fact, I am surprised you split the trunk at all. I love cherries amongst other things, for the smooth bark. I sure hope this lives.
Why a concern? I hope I didn’t kill it as I thought I was doing the right thing here. Oh boy now I am very scared as I waited an entire year and now I find out I wasn’t suppose to do this? What was the correct method ? Was I suppose to repot and than wait another year to trunk split? Please elaborate
michael
Trueblackpercula
Shohin
Here is the schedule that was posted that I have followed.
@Brian Van Fleet kindly revised the Prunus Mume schedule above; this is a corrected update:
Winter:
DECEMBER
- Prune lightly to a good shape for the flowers.
- Carefully wire it if needed. Don’t wire if there is a chance you will knock off flower or leaf buds, they’re easily dislodged at this stage.
JANUARY
- Enjoy the flowering show.
- After flowering finishes, cut back hard to 2/3 nodes. Careful here too, because many proximal buds are not viable. Don’t cut back past good buds. Good buds will be a richer brighter brown color when wet. Dead buds are dull and almost purple brown.
- Structural pruning if needed.
FEBRUARY
- It’s not growing yet.
Spring
MARCH
- Repot every spring, changing soil, and minimally pruning roots, as the buds are moving. Ume is one of the later trees to leaf out.
- Feed and water well.
- Let it grow.
APRIL
-Cut the first two leaves closest to the trunk.
- Wire green shoots.
- Let it grow.
MAY
- Prune to 2-3 nodes and wire.
- Let it grow, don’t prune back anything that grows from now until leaf-drop.
Summer
JUNE
- Let it grow.
JULY
- Dormancy.
- Take off the wire if biting in.
- Do not fully defoliate.
AUGUST
- Dormancy.
- Curly leaves.
- Remove wire.
Autumn
SEPTEMBER
- It’s not growing yet.
OCTOBER
- Some growing.
NOVEMBER
- Leaves fall
@Brian Van Fleet kindly revised the Prunus Mume schedule above; this is a corrected update:
Winter:
DECEMBER
- Prune lightly to a good shape for the flowers.
- Carefully wire it if needed. Don’t wire if there is a chance you will knock off flower or leaf buds, they’re easily dislodged at this stage.
JANUARY
- Enjoy the flowering show.
- After flowering finishes, cut back hard to 2/3 nodes. Careful here too, because many proximal buds are not viable. Don’t cut back past good buds. Good buds will be a richer brighter brown color when wet. Dead buds are dull and almost purple brown.
- Structural pruning if needed.
FEBRUARY
- It’s not growing yet.
Spring
MARCH
- Repot every spring, changing soil, and minimally pruning roots, as the buds are moving. Ume is one of the later trees to leaf out.
- Feed and water well.
- Let it grow.
APRIL
-Cut the first two leaves closest to the trunk.
- Wire green shoots.
- Let it grow.
MAY
- Prune to 2-3 nodes and wire.
- Let it grow, don’t prune back anything that grows from now until leaf-drop.
Summer
JUNE
- Let it grow.
JULY
- Dormancy.
- Take off the wire if biting in.
- Do not fully defoliate.
AUGUST
- Dormancy.
- Curly leaves.
- Remove wire.
Autumn
SEPTEMBER
- It’s not growing yet.
OCTOBER
- Some growing.
NOVEMBER
- Leaves fall
Brian Van Fleet
Pretty Fly for a Bonsai Guy
There are less-invasive ways to add movement to trunks in species that rot easily, and that have bark that should be featured and preserved. Likely it will live, but the trunk will be scarred for a long time. Who knows, maybe it will become a feature, or maybe you’ll realize you made a mistake applying this technique. Time will tell, and it will be a good lesson either way.
Brian Van Fleet
Pretty Fly for a Bonsai Guy
This is for a flowering apricot, prunus mume, not cherry.
LittleDingus
Omono
I don't see any mention of trunk splitting in this schedule?? Pruning back to buds and wiring does not require trunk splitting. Trunk splitting is a specialized technique usually reserved for conifers.
Didn't you do similar work on another tree in another thread? I felt it was drastic then, but I've never done this technique myself and I though you mentioned watching lots of videos about trunk splitting so I assumed you knew much more than me about it and I bit my tongue. How is that tree doing? I assume it's still growing ok?
You won't know for a while yet, but hopefully the tree heals over the split. It could take years depending on how the sides of the trunk align. In the mean time, you'll need to be carefull moisture doesn't get in and rot the heartwood. When it does heal, it will leave a scar.
leatherback
The Treedeemer
Sorry, must have missed it.
What is done is done. But.. Trunk splitting is a rarely used technique, and only done if nothing else is available. In some 300 trees worked on I have used it twice. Both on conifers.
Looking at the schedule you just showed..
The splitting in itself is probably not a risk. I just think it is a shame to do on cherries. I think it is a risk to do such an invasive action when you have just repotted a tree.
Important to understand: You repot before the plant is in leaf, once the buds are about to break. You repotted late, which is OK, but you will run a risk
In april you do not normally bend thicker branches, and focus on green growth.
Trueblackpercula
Shohin
So basically I have followed a schedule for prunus mume all this time and not for prunus incisa lesson learned. I will continue to monitor the tree and hope it pulls through. I did check her this morning and she looks to be just fine as if nothing had happened.
But as for the the statement about the bark being preserved i did not now that was for cherry trees only as I see you guys and ladies carving out the centers to give it character for Mume and just assumed I should follow suit.
But the thread has always been about Prunus Incisa and I really wish someone would have told me NOT to follow the schedule for Mume, lesson learned
I think the tree came out good has lots of movement even though I probably broke every rule in the process
I will provide updates as the tree progresses
As always thank you everyone
Michael
But as for the the statement about the bark being preserved i did not now that was for cherry trees only as I see you guys and ladies carving out the centers to give it character for Mume and just assumed I should follow suit.
But the thread has always been about Prunus Incisa and I really wish someone would have told me NOT to follow the schedule for Mume, lesson learned
I think the tree came out good has lots of movement even though I probably broke every rule in the process
I will provide updates as the tree progresses
As always thank you everyone
Michael
Trueblackpercula
Shohin
Yes i did watch countless videos and not once did i ask myself why there was never a prunus being split like i did until everyone here is telling me why did i do this? LOL for a prunus Mume. But she is doing very well as she has a few shots sprouting already. I guess i am the first to venture in an area of the unknown, i hope other new comers will learn form my gains and losses as i should have read more more more.
thanks again everyone as i will continue post as they progress
Michael
Trueblackpercula
Shohin
I can see now why you made the statements you made as i did not know the schedule i was following was for Mume and Not Incisa. thanks for all the feed back as it is greatly appreciated and welcomed.
looks like its going to be a long year for me as these radical changes i made will take time and i cannot remove the wraps until next season. Boy I really messed up but i had good intentions. who knows it just may turn out to be a god thing in the future.
Thanks again
Michael
LittleDingus
Omono
I don't think following the "mume vs incisa" advice is that significant. I do things "out of season" to all my trees all the time. That sounds more cavalier than it is because I do put a lot of thought into things and often adjust accordingly. Or, honestly, sometimes I just need to dare the tree to live so I can recover some space :{
I guess what strikes me is I never equated "wiring" with "trunk spliting". I'm not sure many would...but I don't see mention of trunk splitting in your schedule
I doubt many hobbiests even own a trunk splitter...though that may be a bad assumption on my part??...but what's done is done...let the fun begin! I am very curious how this will turn out...please keep us posted!
From my experience, any problems won't really set in until the heat does. Even then, I think the biggest danger is winter. Cherries are known for bark splitting from frost/cold and yours will be unlikely to have healed well by then. You might plan on rewrapping the trunk before winter. 1) to see how it is doing and 2) to keep some extra protection from drying winds and cold until it heals well. You might look into a trunk wrap that breathes well for the winter. I'd let the top run as wild as it can this year as well.
Anyway...those would be my near term concerns. Down the road there may be some scarring issues to deal with...but deal with those when the time comes
