Poured concrete around the base of my elm to encourage radial roots

BillsBayou

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Conventions are great for trading tips and tricks. This is a trick I picked up last year in Denver. I met a fellow artist, Oscar, and somehow we ended up talking about developing better radial roots. After discussing a particularly ugly tree of mine, Oscar mentioned pouring concrete around the base of the tree.

The technique is similar to another technique where heavy wire is wrapped tightly, once, around the base of a tree. As time passes, the trunk swells over the wire. Somehow roots are formed. I've seen this technique successfully applied ONCE.

The problem with wrapping the trunk with heavy wire is that the trunk has an irregular shape. Wrapping wire around the base is only going to work if there are no gaps between the wire and the tree. I find myself thinking about this tree from time to time, but I cannot get around that problem. The idea of using concrete would solves that problem.

I have little to no idea what I'm doing. I've already jumped out of the plane. All I need to do now is learn how to fold and pack my parachute before I hit the ground. Anyone else want to jump out after me?

Here's the tree. The upper portion was developing fine. The base, however, is so ugly, I have lost heart that this will ever be a good tree. If this technique doesn't work, the tree was going to be garbage anyway.
IMG_8623.jpeg

This is seriously ugly root distribution. When initially potted, it was buried deep to give it the best chance of survival. That's what I thought was the best idea. DO NOT DO THAT. Elms, like many other species, will grow new roots on buried portions of the trunk. There was a good base on this tree, but now it's crap.
IMG_8624.jpeg

To create the form, I used the top portion of a smaller pot. Notches were cut for existing roots.
IMG_8628.jpeg

The top of the concrete will be higher than the existing pot. That's not part of the technique, but a consequence of circumstance. New roots will look good here. This decision will likely bite me in the ass.
IMG_8631.jpeg

Concrete is heavily alkaline and has the potential to harm the living tissue of the trunk. I've coated the trunk with clay to protect it while the concrete cures.
IMG_8632.jpeg

Gaps beneath the roots were not closed off. I merely coated the roots. Clay was used to cover the soil to protect deeper roots. The gap between the side of the form and the soil was sealed with the same clay.
IMG_8634.jpeg

No photo of just concrete in the form. Sorry. After pouring the concrete into the form, I capped with with pebbles. Why? Don't really know. Maybe I like seeing trees with pebble glued to the surface of Big Box Store bonsai. Maybe I think the rocks will affect the distribution and shape of the roots.
IMG_8635.jpeg

After a week, I removed the form.
IMG_8662.jpeg

This is after cleaning around the base of the tree. It's been a few weeks and the tree doesn't seem to be adversely affected by the concrete. Time will tell.
IMG_8680.jpeg
 
 
Cutting out all of the cambium makes me a little nervous. However, I do realize I'm taking a much slower route.

Thank you for the link!
 
Am not really sure what Bill plan was for this as I didn't see the concrete part under some sort of soil.
 
seems like if the tree were properly repotted over the course of several years, the roots would be in a better condition amd this would be unneccesary. I like the idea of using the concrete but yes, needs to cover the area above the concrete in order to be successful..
 
Bill taking roots need air to grow to an extreme...
 
Conventions are great for trading tips and tricks. This is a trick I picked up last year in Denver. I met a fellow artist, Oscar, and somehow we ended up talking about developing better radial roots. After discussing a particularly ugly tree of mine, Oscar mentioned pouring concrete around the base of the tree.

The technique is similar to another technique where heavy wire is wrapped tightly, once, around the base of a tree. As time passes, the trunk swells over the wire. Somehow roots are formed. I've seen this technique successfully applied ONCE.

The problem with wrapping the trunk with heavy wire is that the trunk has an irregular shape. Wrapping wire around the base is only going to work if there are no gaps between the wire and the tree. I find myself thinking about this tree from time to time, but I cannot get around that problem. The idea of using concrete would solves that problem.

I have little to no idea what I'm doing. I've already jumped out of the plane. All I need to do now is learn how to fold and pack my parachute before I hit the ground. Anyone else want to jump out after me?

Here's the tree. The upper portion was developing fine. The base, however, is so ugly, I have lost heart that this will ever be a good tree. If this technique doesn't work, the tree was going to be garbage anyway.
View attachment 537780

This is seriously ugly root distribution. When initially potted, it was buried deep to give it the best chance of survival. That's what I thought was the best idea. DO NOT DO THAT. Elms, like many other species, will grow new roots on buried portions of the trunk. There was a good base on this tree, but now it's crap.
View attachment 537781

To create the form, I used the top portion of a smaller pot. Notches were cut for existing roots.
View attachment 537782

The top of the concrete will be higher than the existing pot. That's not part of the technique, but a consequence of circumstance. New roots will look good here. This decision will likely bite me in the ass.
View attachment 537783

Concrete is heavily alkaline and has the potential to harm the living tissue of the trunk. I've coated the trunk with clay to protect it while the concrete cures.
View attachment 537784

Gaps beneath the roots were not closed off. I merely coated the roots. Clay was used to cover the soil to protect deeper roots. The gap between the side of the form and the soil was sealed with the same clay.
View attachment 537785

No photo of just concrete in the form. Sorry. After pouring the concrete into the form, I capped with with pebbles. Why? Don't really know. Maybe I like seeing trees with pebble glued to the surface of Big Box Store bonsai. Maybe I think the rocks will affect the distribution and shape of the roots.
View attachment 537786

After a week, I removed the form.
View attachment 537787

This is after cleaning around the base of the tree. It's been a few weeks and the tree doesn't seem to be adversely affected by the concrete. Time will tell.
View attachment 537788
I doonoo?

I keep My trees far away from concrete.

The stuff spews alkalinity well after it cured. I never liked the idea of concrete pots because of this.

I’ve put old concrete in tubes of water and measured the pH and it keeps reading high after weeks and weeks of changing the water.

Is this an air layer above the concrete?

I think it’s better to do aggressive root work to the point where you understand the limits of each tree.

It’s better to kill a tree by doing aggressive, root work, and knowing where the limit is in my opinion.

Do you keep us updated as to anything interesting that may
Mats
 
Here you go, but I covered the concrete with soil

 
I have no idea what to expect with this tree or even what exactly you're trying to accomplish, but I love weird experiments so I'll be following along.
 
I have no idea what to expect with this tree or even what exactly you're trying to accomplish, but I love weird experiments so I'll be following along.
It is not an experiment but a known method. Concrete works as a tourniquet : As the trunk expands, the concrete starts to restrict expansion and sapflow. The tree responds by throwing out roots above the obstruction, assuming the environment is suitable for roots (And in some species, also when not!). Very similar to a steel disk, tile or twisted wire applied to the trunk. This just makes a more perfect fit.
 
It is not an experiment but a known method. Concrete works as a tourniquet : As the trunk expands, the concrete starts to restrict expansion and sapflow. The tree responds by throwing out roots above the obstruction, assuming the environment is suitable for roots (And in some species, also when not!). Very similar to a steel disk, tile or twisted wire applied to the trunk. This just makes a more perfect fit.
I read that it is a process that is possible. I just imagine that the removal of the concrete after new roots have formed could be interesting…..especially because the concrete has a large depth and is formed to the uneven shape of the trunk.
 
I have American Elm trees that had roots like the first photo. Below that layer of roots was an entire new better looking root spread. I just pruned off the upper root layer. The trees kept on growing very well as if nothing was removed or different.
 
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