Pots with holes and pots with no holes

[penumbra]

If you use a proper bit, I would start to drill on the side that will be viewed if I remember correctly. When it breaks through a little bit of chipping happens. I have had success with ceramic glaze, but it’s a bitch. Plan on tossing the bit after a few holes.

There are bits and there are proper bits. If you use a diamond core like I pictured, you will have no chipping, as I have shown. Ceramic glaze is not an issue and bit will last a long long time and drill many holes with proper care.
If you insist on using another type of bit, a tile bit will work much better than a mason bit. You might even get 2 or 3 holes.

 

[Pitoon]

To minimize the small chipping you need to score one side and then finish the hole on the other side. The pilot hole will guide the bit, same as when you drill a hole in a new door.

To keep the bits lasting you have to keep the bit cool when drilling.

 

[Forsoothe!]

If you use a proper bit, I would start to drill on the side that will be viewed if I remember correctly. When it breaks through a little bit of chipping happens. I have had success with ceramic glaze, but it’s a bitch. Plan on tossing the bit after a few holes.

No, not drill bits. Keep a pool of water such that the boring bit is always wet and it will last for many holes. It doesn't mean a lot of water, just more water than will go dry and let the bit heat up. No heat = long life. Often, there is a concave bottom of the pot that will hold a couple ounces of water which is enough. And guide, don't force. Let the bit rest in place and "wear" its way through. Don't apply any more downward force than it takes to keep the bit in-place. Starting is the hardest part. Once a groove is there the bit will follow it down. If you can trap the pot in place so that it doesn't move when the bit touches it, that makes things go better. If it takes you an hour to jury-rig a fixture that traps the perimeter of the pot between boards clamped to a flat surface so you can concentrate on keeping the drill vertical and starting at low RPM to make the initial groove, that's a good use of your time. Drilling trough will only take a minute or so, but a clean cut is the product of setting up the job so that it will go smoothly.

Boring bits are hole cutters with diamond or carbide grit on the outer diameter and are much easier to use than drills made for concrete. And cheaper, too. They grind a path through and do not break through the far side the way a drill bit does.

 

[Firstflush]

By all means, listen to these dudes.
I was coming from the point of needing holes in second hand 7 dollar pots yesterday.

 

[penumbra]

No, not drill bits. Keep a pool of water such that the boring bit is always wet and it will last for many holes. It doesn't mean a lot of water, just more water than will go dry and let the bit heat up. No heat = long life. Often, there is a concave bottom of the pot that will hold a couple ounces of water which is enough. And guide, don't force. Let the bit rest in place and "wear" its way through. Don't apply any more downward force than it takes to keep the bit in-place. Starting is the hardest part. Once a groove is there the bit will follow it down. If you can trap the pot in place so that it doesn't move when the bit touches it, that makes things go better. If it takes you an hour to jury-rig a fixture that traps the perimeter of the pot between boards clamped to a flat surface so you can concentrate on keeping the drill vertical and starting at low RPM to make the initial groove, that's a good use of your time. Drilling trough will only take a minute or so, but a clean cut is the product of setting up the job so that it will go smoothly.

Boring bits are hole cutters with diamond or carbide grit on the outer diameter and are much easier to use than drills made for concrete. And cheaper, too. They grind a path through and do not break through the far side the way a drill bit does.

THIS^^^
Thanks my friend. Seems like it is a hard message to get across for a procedure that is easy, professional and repeatable with holes much nicer and larger than these dang drill bits people keep wanting to use.

 

[Forsoothe!]

Ten sizes for $12 from a WalMart near you. Compare that to the price of concrete drill bits. Easier to use and makes a nicer hole. No contest!

 

[Kae]

thanks for all your feedback. very useful. i think i will look into drilling the holes myself, as i can find a lot of useful stuff in second-hand stores and the like. i have this weird problem that almost no bonsai equipment is available in my country. it's just not a thing here. and i reckon buying ceramic stuff from abroad and importing would be expensive. and i'm not a fan of plastic pots. i really would like them to look nice.

 

[Forsoothe!]

If you click on your Icon in the upper right corner and add your location, people can give advice customized to your climate. And, others in your situation in your country man help with sources. Bonsaiists aren't everywhere, but if you turn over a rock or two...

 

[Leo in N E Illinois]

Certain semi-aquatic plants (kusamono) and a very few trees, like willow, can be kept in standing water. Generally it is easier to handle trees in pots with drainage holes.

Often a shallow tray, is used with rock plantings. The tray might not have drainage holes, and be kept flooded with water. The rock will wick some water up to the tree planted on it, the tree may send roots down over the surface of the rock into the water. Generally these shallow trays are quite wide and no more than 2 to 3 cm deep.

But as a general rule, your bonsai pot should have drainage holes, it makes the horticulture much less complicated.