Planning my Chinese pepper (Zanthoxylum piperitum)

Unagi

Seedling
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USDA Zone
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Background
I am a complete beginner, I bought my first two bonsais about 1.5 months ago, a Chinese pepper (Zanthoxylum piperitum) and a Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia). I was ripped off, but I didn't know that at that time.

The shop was a 3x3m wooden building next to a very busy road in the center of big city in Eastern Europe. There were wide windows on every wall of the building, and after they placed the shelfs that they put the bonsais on, there was only 1x1.5m remaining space inside. It was probably an ice crème or hot-dog stand before. The summers in that country are hot, that day, it was ~40C outside, so they placed a mobile AC to the 1x1.5m room that blow the ice cold air to the tree and the owner of the shop. Later I learned that they had a closed nursery outside the city, and they cycled the trees between the two places, that is how they kept the trees more or less green. The poor Chinese elm had plenty of dried out and yellow leafs, but it had green ones too! :) The trees were about 20 cm tall. Later, I noticed that the pot of the Chinese pepper was broken and glued together in a very ugly way. The Chinese elm was slip potted into a different medium that later caused me hard time to properly water it.

I paid about 50 USD per tree, but I was really happy that I bought my first bonsais. :)

When I travelled back to Switzerland, I brought the trees home, and started to read what makes a bonsai a bonsai. Nabari, trunk, etc. At this point I realized that the trees are probably not the best material for bonsai, or it can take a lots of time to develop them to a good one. Every cloud has a silver lining, I decided that is the best material for me to learn by experimenting. :)

In this post I would like to talk only about the Chinese pepper, and ask your opinion about what I would like to do, and what to pay attention to. I will write a similar post for my elm.

The tree
Here is the tree now. As you can see the trunk doesn't have a good taper, it is more like a stick in a pot. I was afraid of dig into the soil to see the roots, I will repot it next year and I will see how I can try to form it. Where the first branches start the trunk of the tree doesn't taper which makes it strange for me. Health wise, it doesn't have yellow leafs anymore (maybe it was just brought to the shop when I bought it), they are quite green with quite a few new leafs developing. What I don't know if it is a disease or the characteristics of the tree is the sometimes black bark.

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Goals
After examining the characteristics of the tree, I decided it can give me a good opportunity to learn about the followings:
- Propagation by air layering
- Propagation by cuttings in different soil types (organic and inorganic)
- Trunk development by cut and grow
- Trunk development by putting its pot to a bigger pot (I don't know if this technique has a name)
- Trying out different soil types for the whole bonsai (organic and inorganic)
- Repotting
- Root development by selecting good roots during repotting
- Healing an ugly wound at the top of the trunk

High level plan
The two most urgent decisions will be the cuttings and the air layering. I plan to air layer the tree to half, so I can develop a good taper for both trunks (even if they will be small at the beginning), and I want to prepare that with cuttings. The following picture show where I would like to air layer the tree next year.
air_layering.jpeg

The cuttings are more tricky to show on pictures, I added a few examples.
cuttings.jpeg

The repotting, root development, and healing the wound at the top of the trunk will be a topic for next year.

First action
I would like to try to propagate the tree by cuttings tomorrow. It is the end of the summer, probably the last chance to do it this year. I know where I will do air layering, and I want to prepare the tree for that.

I cannot show the exact branches I will plan to cut, but in general, I plan to do the following:
- Every place where more than 1 branch started to develop, I select only one to keep.
- I select one that goes to a good direction (based on where I want the trunk to go in the future), and the one that is relatively thick. I don't want to move the new trunkline with wire.
- I will not cut too small branches, I let them to grow a bit.
- I don't want to reduce the tree foliage besides what I mentioned above. First, I don't know how much the tree can withstand, and I want the tree to become stronger.
- I will help cover the cuttings with cut paste.
- I will propagate the cuttings with what we discussed here. I will use two different soil types, and I will use clonex gel.

My doubts
- Hopefully I don't cut too much that will affect the health of the tree.
- Hopefully the time for making this change is not at the wrong time for this tree. I know other species can tolerate a lot of abuse, maybe this tree cannot.
- Hopefully the cuttings will root well late summer.
- I don't know if the clonex gel will help or hinders root development. I know it depends on the tree type.
- I don't know how often to water the cuttings in the green house afterward. I need to read about this later.
- I hope that black bark is not a disease that I spread among other cuttings.

Next
I need to read more about the other goals before I can present them to you.

Thank you for reading and the comments, stay tuned. :)
 
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That has very nice and tiny leaves, similar to my Feroniella.

I am curious about this zanthoxylum species as well.

 
So, here I am, as well as the children. I know, it is unrealistic to assume 100% success, but I hope they will all make it.
001.jpeg

I experimented with multiple things:
  • Organic vs unorganic soil (what I had access to)
  • Chinese pepper (Zanthoxylum piperitum) vs a Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia)
  • Planting alone or in groups.
The last one is interesting. I think it should not make any difference, but in one of the youtube videos I watched on propagation through cuttings, they said they had more success with groups.

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To say the truth, quite a few cuttings were small. My bonsais are small in general, and they didn't have much time to grow, so I worked with what I had. I planed the stongest looking ones separately, and the rest into groups.

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I sprayed them with water, and in general watered the soil quite well. As they don't have roots yet, they cannot rot. There are a few things I don't know:
  • How often I should spray them with fresh water -> I plan to do that every 2nd day.
  • Low light or no light? -> I have only one place in my home where I can put them, so they will get low light with only a very mild direct sunlight.
  • Do I need to give them fresh air from time to time? -> I open the box every second day when I water them.
  • How to know when I need to move them out? -> I know when they developed enough root so they can self sustain them with normal watering, but how to know that? I cannot look into the soil, and I should not bother them.
  • What to do with the dead trees? -> I plan to just leave them in the soil.
I used an Ikea box to keep the humidity high.

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And here are the Chinese pepper after the cuttings. Front, back.

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In its new state, it is easier to show what I am planning to do. This is the air layering I am planning to do next year.

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This is from a slightly different angle. I also started to think about the first lowest branches. The left one would start from the front, and the right one from the back. The problem is that they are almost at the same height, but with wiring, I might be able to hide this fact a bit.

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After checking the tree, there is another alternative: to not airlayer the tree. In that case this would be the trunk. To be honest, it is not that bad, but the lack of taper of the trunk makes it look not too good at the end. Even if with air layering I would get 2 smaller trees, the trunk taper would be better in the end. What do you think?

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At the end, I didn't make cuttings from the top because
  • I was afraid I stress the tree too much. I didn't know how much branches I can remove during summer.
  • I haven't decided on what to do with the upper tree, it has a lot of strong branches at the top of the trunk. As far as I know the Chinese pepper is not looking good with broom style, so I have to think about it.

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The next step will be to learn about how to overwinter the tree, and how to repot at the end of winter. Unfortunately, there are not a lot of information or youtube videos about the tree.
 
You have your goals, doubts and hortucultural knowledge at the ready it seems! That is great.
What makes you say that you are a beginner I wonder.
 
I wish I had been as educated when I first tried to create a bonsai. Regardless of how well the trees are suited to your plans, you have set yourself up to succeed by studying the species and techniques. Best of luck! Great start!
 
Forgot to upload the images, but the next day I also wired the two lower branches.

The front and back
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The front and back from closer
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The future trunk
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