Pinus Thunbergii 'Kyokko Yatsabusa'

Higher up and reduce later. Although you didn't ask, I think it would really risk the health of the tree if you chop it; to the point it may not survive. I've been working with corkers, including KY for 10 years and they are a slow go.
 
Higher up and reduce later. Although you didn't ask, I think it would really risk the health of the tree if you chop it; to the point it may not survive. I've been working with corkers, including KY for 10 years and they are a slow go.
So no chop, and multiple reductions until I reach the new leader?
 
So no chop, and multiple reductions until I reach the new leader?
I would try to make use of as much of the tree as you can, and reduce it gradually if you must. I guess I can see where you're going with the chop at #2, but with corkers, use as much as you can, and realize big chops really slow them down.
 
A how it looks now photo will probably be best for those more gifted & knowledgeable than myself (see @Adair M or @Brian Van Fleet ) to offer you sound advice on this endeavor.
lol I stand corrected as I must've opened this before Brian's reply showed up in my browser! Either way still a great deal at the original $25 investment!
 
I agree with BVF. Corkers are weaker than regular JBP, and they put a lot of energy into producing cork bark, rather than growing.

Plus, you shouldn't decandle every year. Therefore the needles will be longer. Longer needles are ok with bigger trees, not so much with small trees.
 
Just an updated picture with a better background to see where I am going with the trunk line. I have decided to do the reduction in 3 phases. Per BVF's advice. I think this will also give me the opportunity for grafting practice with scions aplenty coming off of this tree.
NCM_7367.JPG
 
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