RickMartin
Omono
I will take some this afternoon after I get home from work. Mine are not the dwarf variety thoughHi Rick
Probably a good choice given the time of year. Will be interesting to see how yours progress, any pictures so far!
I will take some this afternoon after I get home from work. Mine are not the dwarf variety thoughHi Rick
Probably a good choice given the time of year. Will be interesting to see how yours progress, any pictures so far!
What did the label say for variety? Hornibrookianna does not have needles that length that i have ever seen. Also seem longer than typical Pinus Nigra.
I've always heard of hbr one side, but it sounds like you core out the center of the root ball. Does it leave a hollow that needs to be filled with bonsai soil? I'm trying to picture it in my mind. Or am I way off lolThanks, what part did you find unique?
Exactly, the center core is removed from underneath, this is where the major problems occur with nursery trees, trees that have not been repotted correctly and still have a lot of native soil or poor compacted soil. Most often in these case the roots have rotted or died off and the area is simply a time bomb waiting to kill the tree.I've always heard of hbr one side, but it sounds like you core out the center of the root ball. Does it leave a hollow that needs to be filled with bonsai soil? I'm trying to picture it in my mind. Or am I way off lol
I will look for the tags tomorrow after work. I save all my tree labels I just don't remember where I put them.What did the label say for variety? Hornibrookianna does not have needles that length that i have ever seen. Also seem longer than typical Pinus Nigra.
That makes sense i have quite a few of the Austrian black pines on my acreage in the landscape with long needles. They take quite a while to bark up compared to JBP.I found the tags.
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They are just something to play with. I know they will never make great bonsai, but practice and document, that's the way I learn.That makes sense i have quite a few of the Austrian black pines on my acreage in the landscape with long needles. They take quite a while to bark up compared to JBP.
Are you talking p. nigra or is this about you?I know they will never make great bonsai
Actually they can make great bonsai, just a bit slower developing than JBP and JRP due to the vigor aspect. They are also slower to bark up. However they can reduce down in needle size quite well and are much more tolerant to colder climate zones.They are just something to play with. I know they will never make great bonsai, but practice and document, that's the way I learn.
OsoAre you talking p. nigra or is this about you?
Yes i have some back buds further back on the branches. Also lots in the areas of cut back. ( these i have reduced due to congestion) i also took off any in locations undesireable. I was more aggressive in the cut back and removal of foliage so i expected that. I also expected a period of recovery to be needed because i removed so much foliage. The degree of back budding always depends on the timing, overall health of the tree, whether it was pumped up with fertilizer a couple of months prior and always the amount of cut back. Not to worry about yours, let the tree grow out for a year or two, fertilise and water lots then cut back again. Just be sure not too try too soon after a repot or if the tree has weakened for any reason.@River's Edge Frank, as I said a few posts above although I am getting tons of buds at the base of the cut candles I am not getting any desirable back budding to speak of further back on the branches or trunk. I have had several people tell me that these pines back bud like crazy. I guess the question to ask is when and how far back? Have you seen any real back budding on yours yet? I am feeding mine regularly and based on the gowth of the other new buds it is healthy, just not cooperating.
HBR=Half Bare-root. It is a technique to gradually replace the native soil in pines without stripping them fully of mycorrhizae. Essentially, you bare root one half of the root ball one year and the other half one or two years later.What is HBR?
One question about timing. I am having similar issues than @Cofga with my ABP. It is young and vigorous, and I get plenty of candles every spring. I fertilize strongly and water it, and the tree is happy. Since it is still in development, I let the candles open and cut them to a pair of needles by mid-summer. Yet, I only get buds at the wound, and sometimes (rarely) not even there. When do you cut back? And also, by cut back, do you mean trimming a branch and not only the present-year growth?Yes i have some back buds further back on the branches. Also lots in the areas of cut back. ( these i have reduced due to congestion) i also took off any in locations undesireable. I was more aggressive in the cut back and removal of foliage so i expected that. I also expected a period of recovery to be needed because i removed so much foliage. The degree of back budding always depends on the timing, overall health of the tree, whether it was pumped up with fertilizer a couple of months prior and always the amount of cut back. Not to worry about yours, let the tree grow out for a year or two, fertilise and water lots then cut back again. Just be sure not too try too soon after a repot or if the tree has weakened for any reason.
I also have the habit of extra fertiliser and water when working a tree for development rather than refinement. I should note that i typically use home made organic fertiliser rather than off the shelf products.
I am not sure if you specifically made a point of strengthening the tree before cut back. That can make a difference.
I assume you are referring to Pinus Niger, Austrian Black Pine. As a single flush pine cutting back to one pair of needles after the candle has extended is risky. Normally one would leave half or one third of the candle, Partial decandling ( what you have described) is to shorten internodes or create bifurcation and is not cutting back to produce back budding.One question about timing. I am having similar issues than @Cofga with my ABP. It is young and vigorous, and I get plenty of candles every spring. I fertilize strongly and water it, and the tree is happy. Since it is still in development, I let the candles open and cut them to a pair of needles by mid-summer. Yet, I only get buds at the wound, and sometimes (rarely) not even there. When do you cut back? And also, by cut back, do you mean trimming a branch and not only the present-year growth?
To begin with i will assume by ABP you are referring to Austrian Black Pine a specific variety of Pinus Niger. What you have described as a method is partial decandling. You have left some of the new candle and this resulted in new buds on the remains of the current years shoot.One question about timing. I am having similar issues than @Cofga with my ABP. It is young and vigorous, and I get plenty of candles every spring. I fertilize strongly and water it, and the tree is happy. Since it is still in development, I let the candles open and cut them to a pair of needles by mid-summer. Yet, I only get buds at the wound, and sometimes (rarely) not even there. When do you cut back? And also, by cut back, do you mean trimming a branch and not only the present-year growth?