An update on mine. I did not like the angle when I first got the tree two years ago. (Pic 1 in red pot)I repotted and turned it counterclockwise. (That left a large inappropriate branch on the right side of the tree. (Pic2) I air layered the branch with massive root growth including areas where the bark was intact. (Pic 3 is me holding the air layered potted branch about where it came off the tree)
I feel like the main tree now is close to having the primary development close to being done. (Pic 4) All the lower long branches (sacrifice) will be removed. The tree can heal massive cuts.
The second tree (air layer branch) will need two years of trunk development. (Pic 5) Then I’ll grow out primary branches.
I have been happy growing these trees. They seem indestructible, resistant, fast growing, well healing and are easier to propagate than Chinese elm. What I don’t like is that I’m having a hard time getting good ramification. Leaf size is a tad large for small trees. Also the trees only give me one strong flush in spring and a small second flush in fall. That is probably because of my schizophrenic climate in San Francisco. Our summers are cold and foggy June-August then we have sunny warm fall weather lasting through November. May of my deciduous trees literally think mid summer is fall and loose their leaves then re-bud in late fall. My crabapples, Japanese cherry trees and others often flower for the second time in late fall. I think those who have warm weather may see better leaf flushes including the ability to defoliate which I can not do(minimal second flush.)
These are for sure beginner friendly and in the hands of a professional grower these trees can probably get very twiggy.
There are a few cultivars. I think I have the ‘select’ which has the purple leaf margin in the spring.
I anticipate working with Parrotia persica for the long haul.
Best,
Mats H