panda’s satsuki azalea whips

Figured it’s time to provide an update on these, as most of them are growing strongly

bunka
This ones growing strongly at the tip with some more buds just now opening. There is one deep pink flower on the plant now, and another white one was removed last week.
IMG_2340.jpegIMG_2341.jpeg
matsunarai
This one has a lovely striped flower. It was sagging a little bit, so after the photo I corrected the wire.
IMG_2345.jpegIMG_2346.jpeg

nissho-no-hikario
Perhaps the strongest growing of the batch, and nice and short. No flowers yet.

IMG_2344.jpeg

minato
This plant has a number of active shoots all up and down the whip! Also no flowers yet.

IMG_2343.jpeg

pink gumpo
I see a few angles that make for a great for a trunkline. I have a certain attraction to slant stlye azaleas, but the moyogi has potential as well. Of course, too early to make any real decisions!
IMG_2351.jpegIMG_2352.jpeg

macronolatum

I love the look of this flower. Hot pink, with skinny petals.

IMG_2349.jpegIMG_2350.jpeg

@Deep Sea Diver is there anything to be done on these besides checking the wire and letting them run? At what point do you start performing techniques such as fishtail?
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2342.jpeg
    IMG_2342.jpeg
    142.8 KB · Views: 12
Figured it’s time to provide an update on these, as most of them are growing strongly

bunka
This ones growing strongly at the tip with some more buds just now opening. There is one deep pink flower on the plant now, and another white one was removed last week.
View attachment 548788View attachment 548789
matsunarai
This one has a lovely striped flower. It was sagging a little bit, so after the photo I corrected the wire.
View attachment 548793View attachment 548794

nissho-no-hikario
Perhaps the strongest growing of the batch, and nice and short. No flowers yet.

View attachment 548792

minato
This plant has a number of active shoots all up and down the whip! Also no flowers yet.

View attachment 548791

pink gumpo
I see a few angles that make for a great for a trunkline. I have a certain attraction to slant stlye azaleas, but the moyogi has potential as well. Of course, too early to make any real decisions!
View attachment 548797View attachment 548798

macronolatum
I love the look of this flower. Hot pink, with skinny petals.

View attachment 548795View attachment 548796

@Deep Sea Diver is there anything to be done on these besides checking the wire and letting them run? At what point do you start performing techniques such as fishtail?
That is lovely
 
One of these days, when my worklist eases, I’m gonna actually create an Azalea Wars on this topic… striking, bending, developing Azalea whips as my phone and desk computer are filled with photos. But until then….

After the first wiring is done in late fall - late winter- Going back and carefully tightening up the curves and bends two weeks to a month and maybe two month later can yield a better product. Or cracks if one is not careful.

In Late April - May it’s time to take off the wire. I’ve been doing this for a week!
One would think all one has the do is merely watch for the wire biting in. Yet as most whips are double wired, this can lead to just what one doesn’t want to occur - the wire biting in!

There are 2-3 reasons for this.
1. Unequal pressure on the wire expecially in bends
2. The doubling up of wire frequently hides the area
3. Different size wires are usually used when doubling up many, but not all, first jobs.

So it’s kind of a blind call… Should I - or shouldn’t I cut the wire?

One answer is to just cut one wire off… and then check for cuts and inspect the wire around the other wire the other wire for cutting in. I used to do this, yet I’ve had many issues accomplishing this task for quite a few reasons. [Among these, rookie moves, only having one size wire cutter (got four now and still an issue), inassessible areas due to tight or irregular bends and the darn wiring was too prefect!)

So now I go in and just take them both off at once, (keeping all foliage possible one the first year)… Cutting the most accessible in the area and then the other wire at each snip.

Be very careful in areas where cracks were! No mater what, it’s best to go back and wrap the area and often to lay a light wire over the area for support.

Also it’s very helpful to buy long wooden skewers and tie wraps used for bread bags to add additional support.

Ok, now what? Well some (or parts of) whips are unstable and need a new wire (usual 1.5-2mm) laid on right away.

If not and one leaves the wire off, eventually (soon) the tree will do what it does and grow, resulting in your bends relaxing!… and need rewiring.

After a couple years of observing this phenomena and watching my awesome bends deteriorate into little curves (slow learner here!) I’ve come to the conclusion it’s better to rewire (often reverse direction of wire) as soon as possible… that may mean right away or a week or two later… then remove the wire again in mid to late summer early fall…. When it’s cutting in once again….

….and rewire and stake again😉

Btw: The next year may be time to upon once again, or not depending on the cultivar.

That’s all for now.

Happy Memorial Day!… Please take time to remember those who have made the ultimate sacrifice for their country right or wrong, and those who have and are serving.

DSD sends
 
Thanks John, this is far beyond what I expected in response! I’ll definitely take a closer peak under the wire at these; I’m not afraid of removing wire and rewiring immediately after if that’s what it takes. That just means more wiring practice.
After the first wiring is done in late fall - late winter- Going back and carefully tightening up the curves and bends two weeks to a month and maybe two month later can yield a better product. Or cracks if one is not careful.
I think this part is something I missed on the matsunarai and perhaps the pink gumpo as well. I will likely give them a second look over and put the stakes past on.

Happy Memorial Day, and thanks for your service.
 
Back
Top Bottom