RJG2
Omono
I know the Foredom is the standard, but I do have a flexible shaft for the Dremel. Haven't tried it with my nibbler yet though.
One tool, Dremel or Die Grinder?
- Thread starter The Warm Canuck
- Start date
ABCarve
Masterpiece
Dremel doesn’t have the power to drive a nibbler. I’m a Foredom advocate however there are numerous knockoffs that are cheaper. If you’re not going to use it everyday they’re probably okay. Foredoms brushless motors are amazing. They are variable speed, can do 20K rpm and produce full torque at low rpm. I sound like a salesman and I was a dealer at one time. I use mine everyday for one thing or another.
penumbra
Imperial Masterpiece
These are great. I have one from my old lapidary days. Unfortunately, not portable enough for my use now.
Nibblers were specifically designed to be used in Dremels. Unless you mean a Dremel with a flexible shaft?
RJG2
Omono
It's worked okay for me, but I haven't done anything major and haven't used the flex shaft (like you say, I'm sure the Dremel's torque wouldn't be good enough for the nibbler and the flex shaft).
ShadyStump
Imperial Masterpiece
I'll second the safety of Dremel over many other brands. Still regrowing fingernails removed by a B&D tool a while ago.
High torque sounds good, but unless you're working soft wood your bit will go wild as soon as it catches a random bit of cross grain. Using a Dremel for a couple years, I became accustomed to being able to momentarily reduce the speed when necessary just by applying greater pressure, then ramping up the speed for harder digging when appropriate. You can make use of a much narrower range of bits that way, in stead of having to change bits every few minutes.
Not an option with higher torqued machines. They can dig faster, but you have to change bits whenever you try to move to a new angle on your piece. This could be a bigger issue on the wood carvings I make vs deadwood on trees. I have no trees that need carving so I'm not sure.
Hard woods vs soft definitely makes a huge difference, though, I can say. Counterintuitively, lower torque on harder wood is advised, and just take your time.
High torque sounds good, but unless you're working soft wood your bit will go wild as soon as it catches a random bit of cross grain. Using a Dremel for a couple years, I became accustomed to being able to momentarily reduce the speed when necessary just by applying greater pressure, then ramping up the speed for harder digging when appropriate. You can make use of a much narrower range of bits that way, in stead of having to change bits every few minutes.
Not an option with higher torqued machines. They can dig faster, but you have to change bits whenever you try to move to a new angle on your piece. This could be a bigger issue on the wood carvings I make vs deadwood on trees. I have no trees that need carving so I'm not sure.
Hard woods vs soft definitely makes a huge difference, though, I can say. Counterintuitively, lower torque on harder wood is advised, and just take your time.
Brian Van Fleet
Pretty Fly for a Bonsai Guy
Foredom flex shaft with foot switch all day.
ABCarve
Masterpiece
After watching the posted video, it seems like it does push that nibbler. Mine is a bit larger than the one they’re using but I’ll stick with the Foredom.
jerzyjerzy
Mame
I would advise against it. The flexible shaft is too small, and the chuck does not hold enough length of the bit compared to its total length. The run out will be excessive, and you can bend the nibbler. I bent the large R-Terrier this way.
I have read Graham Potter's instructions after the fact
Luckily, my local locksmith was able to straighten it, but still it is weakened and I have to be very careful with it now in order not to break it.
River's Edge
Masterpiece
I have one tool that suits carving with a reciprocating blade set and grinding with a variety of attachments. My son purchased it when attending Kokufu in 2011. Works great, lots of power and full range of attachments including flex shaft if desired. Japanese manufactured for the Bonsai industry. HCT 30. I have used this tool since 2013, no trouble still works just like day one. Smooth, easy to hold and work with. I find the blade attachment very useful for detail shaping and smoothing of surfaces. Not sure of the cost in todays market. Package with tool, bits and additional blade attachment ran approximately $500 USD in 2011. Next time I return to Japan I will look for a few spare blades of varying sizes and a nibbler or two. Originals still working fine the ability to continue work without cleaning and sharpening in the process is worth something.
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jerzyjerzy
Mame
I had some cheap Chinese equipment I used before, but after reading this thread I finally bit the bullet and bought the Dremel 8220 and the Parkside battery-operated die grinder. Time to start winter carving plans! 
BobbyLane
Imperial Masterpiece
Is this attachment what you guys are talking about? It's been attached to my dremel for so long now I forgot the name of itI would advise against it. The flexible shaft is too small, and the chuck does not hold enough length of the bit compared to its total length. The run out will be excessive, and you can bend the nibbler. I bent the large R-Terrier this way.
I have read Graham Potter's instructions after the fact
Luckily, my local locksmith was able to straighten it, but still it is weakened and I have to be very careful with it now in order not to break it.
I don't use the nibbler on my dremel anymore I much prefer the feel of the makita and terrier, feel like there's much more control. And power. Only use dremel for smaller jobs, the roto saws are great with a dremel and can give great hollowing out results with lots of control.
The hollow on the hornbeam is mostly rotosaw, rotary wirebrush and dremel
I also feel like this attachment gives you great control with it's ergonomic design
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BobbyLane
Imperial Masterpiece
Graham and Ramon use similar attachments in many of the videos for the light work
RJG2
Omono
Is this attachment what you guys are talking about? It's been attached to my dremel for so long now I forgot the name of it
I don't use the nibbler on my dremel anymore I much prefer the feel of the makita and terrier, feel like there's much more control. And power. Only use dremel for smaller jobs, the roto saws are great with a dremel and can give great hollowing out results with lots of control.
The hollow on the hornbeam is mostly rotosaw, rotary wirebrush and dremel
I also feel like this attachment gives you great control with it's ergonomic design
Yep, that's the flex shaft (not sure that's the actual name, but it's what I've always called it).
