Obligatory Azeala Sokan

[Saddler]

So I have this azeala and it has a straight taperless trunk, it’s 50% alive and the other 50% is not dead. I haven’t thread grafted anything onto it....yet. Can you make some drawings and pictures for? Pretty much lay out what should be done, but don’t ask for pictures, use your imagination and if you can't do it, you are a bad person that hates bonsai. If you have never grown a Sokan azeala, you are also a bad person and hate bonsai.

 

[Saddler]

Sorry, bad joke.
In all seriousness, I have this twin trunk azeala that I am kind of fond of. I am growing out the branch structure currently and practicing my wiring while I go. Most, if not all the branches will be trimmed back severely come fall. I’m not worried about flowers next year if it gets me ahead, unless I should wait until after it blooms to cut back.

My big problem is with the straight taperless secondary trunk. Any suggestions on how to fix it? I can cut it way back or is bending it possible?, keeping in mind that bending branches that really don’t want to bend is not really in my wheelhouse of skills but there is no time like the present to learn. On the other hand, if it breaks.... I know what direction I’ll be going in. If I’m going to cut it back, I would like to do it before I get any further into branch development because what I am growing might be moot by the time the secondary trunk is fixed.

 

[AZbonsai]

This may help:

 

[Saddler]

This may help:

I prefer to get live Christmas trees and half kill them. But thanks!

bahahaha

 

[plant_dr]

So I have this azeala and it has a straight taperless trunk, it’s 50% alive and the other 50% is not dead. I haven’t thread grafted anything onto it....yet. Can you make some drawings and pictures for? Pretty much lay out what should be done, but don’t ask for pictures, use your imagination and if you can't do it, you are a bad person that hates bonsai. If you have never grown a Sokan azeala, you are also a bad person and hate bonsai.

 

[just.wing.it]

If it were mine, I'd probably remove that trunk completely, or cut it low and try to regrow....
Cool azalea though!

 

[JudyB]

I know you are looking for suggestions on how to make that trunk work, but I don't think this tree really needs it to be a nice bonsai. The other trunk alone, has enough curve appeal, and taper to be something wonderful without that other trunk. I would delete the second trunk. And I'm a die hard twin trunk fan, LOL...

 

[Melospiza]

If you are loath to remove the trunk like the other user said, you could cut it low, and it should backbud readily.

 

[Saddler]

I know you are looking for suggestions on how to make that trunk work, but I don't think this tree really needs it to be a nice bonsai. The other trunk alone, has enough curve appeal, and taper to be something wonderful without that other trunk. I would delete the second trunk. And I'm a die hard twin trunk fan, LOL...

I should have wrote that removing it completely is an option, but I do like the twin trunk even with its faults. That being said, I want to make it the best tree possible.

 

[Leo in N E Illinois]

The smaller trunk is too straight and too thick up towards the middle and top. In my climate, I'd wait until spring, before blooming, then I'd cut it quite low, it should backbud. In your mild climate, you could do it now. Remove at least 2/3rds of the secondary trunk.

Otherwise I do agree your main trunk is good enough that the secondary is unnecessary.

For twin trunk designs, the secondary usually is 1/3 or 2/3 height of dominant trunk. Avoid exactly 1/2, for visual design reasons. Say you choose 2/3 for the secondary, you need to build taper in that shorter segment, so be sure to cut low enough.

 

[Leo in N E Illinois]

Azalea wood is extremely difficult to bend once over 3 years old, breakage is inevitable.

 

[Saddler]

The smaller trunk is too straight and too thick up towards the middle and top. In my climate, I'd wait until spring, before blooming, then I'd cut it quite low, it should backbud. In your mild climate, you could do it now. Remove at least 2/3rds of the secondary trunk.

Otherwise I do agree your main trunk is good enough that the secondary is unnecessary.

For twin trunk designs, the secondary usually is 1/3 or 2/3 height of dominant trunk. Avoid exactly 1/2, for visual design reasons. Say you choose 2/3 for the secondary, you need to build taper in that shorter segment, so be sure to cut low enough.

Thanks, I often forget about these design principles until it’s too late. Your advice has also made another problem with the secondary trunk obvious that I knew existed but couldn’t put my finger on. It’s about half the height of the overall tree as it is now.

With the growth I have been able to get in only two years, I think I am going to go for a 1/3 height on the secondary. Which would put I just below the first branch on the primary. Is the top of the canopy or the top of the trunk the reference point?

 

[Leo in N E Illinois]

The top of the canopy is the reference. These are guidelines, not rigid rules, but as you see, you couldn't put your finger on it, but it needed to be either taller or shorter.

 

[GrimLore]

Thanks, I often forget about these design principles until it’s too late. Your advice has also made another problem with the secondary trunk obvious that I knew existed but couldn’t put my finger on. It’s about half the height of the overall tree as it is now.

With the growth I have been able to get in only two years, I think I am going to go for a 1/3 height on the secondary. Which would put I just below the first branch on the primary. Is the top of the canopy or the top of the trunk the reference point?

Being a bit familiar with Azalea in general I would advise the following for next season after bloom. For now let it back bud and grow and post bloom will net you nice results -

In the second picture choose that as your front for a couple of reasons. It shows far less scarring then any other view while giving a clear view of a twin trunk.
Cut the left trunk at a 45 degree angle slightly towards the back not side to side.
Post bloom should be grow time, back budding will appear in two weeks, three weeks maximum.
Trim the remainder as one normally does an Azalea at the same time.

By seasons end you should have a very full plant with buds set for next season and if healthy should/would normally present you with a bit of trimming, shaping, and wiring.

Grimmy

 

[Saddler]

Being a bit familiar with Azalea in general I would advise the following for next season after bloom. For now let it back bud and grow and post bloom will net you nice results -

In the second picture choose that as your front for a couple of reasons. It shows far less scarring then any other view while giving a clear view of a twin trunk.
Cut the left trunk at a 45 degree angle slightly towards the back not side to side.
Post bloom should be grow time, back budding will appear in two weeks, three weeks maximum.
Trim the remainder as one normally does an Azalea at the same time.

By seasons end you should have a very full plant with buds set for next season and if healthy should/would normally present you with a bit of trimming, shaping, and wiring.

Grimmy

I appreciate the pointers. I’ll wait until next year for the cut. I was going to cut almost all the branches to stubs and hope for back budding leaving a couple of leaves for insurance. That makes me ask if I should cut high and wait until I get a bud I want or cut where I like and a bud will likely pop at the top? I ask because I am hoping I’ll get a bud on the inside so the next segment of trunk leans a little right before it goes left again following the flow of the primary. That is unless someone can explain why a different way would be better. Something like this (drawing on my phone on transit doesn’t make even that drawing easy haha but you get the idea)