Nursery elm find...

[AaronThomas]

@MrWunderful
I like the straight look for the broom as well... but do like a flare at the base... even if it’s made up with exposed roots.
I get why most don’t like the exposed roots but to me it adds character to the composition.

 

[AaronThomas]

It's tough having such a good start with so many options.

Hahaha! Agreed!!!
For the most part I find everyones perspective super helpful.... I have found it the best way to look at all the angle... but yes so many ideas make it tough.

 

[Maloghurst]

That’s pretty crazy. Amazing how much was under the soul line.... not seeing anything like that with my tree.



Didn’t take that much but I nearly did....
Wanted to try to save as many healthy roots as I could at the same time reducing the root ball. Hoping the tree is healthy.

I was actually referring to pruning the tree way down. But I remember that you are going to wait for the trunk to thicken. Keep updating!

 

[AaronThomas]

So I am revisiting the idea of air layering the upper portion of the nursery stock. Mostly because I need something to do LOL.
I’m thinking about taking the “Y” section as a layer... yep I know it’s straight but working through some ideas.
Wondering if this can be achieved with a simple use of a tourniquet, similar to the ground layer that @leatherback walked me through last year....
At the same time I don’t wanna take away from the original tree idea… Will doing an air layer slow the growth of the lower portion of the tree?

 

[Leo in N E Illinois]

Air layering blocks flow of carbohydrates down to the roots. So yes, the process of air layering will slow the growth of the lower portion of the tree, but as long as you have some green below the air layer the slowing won't be drastic. A little slower, that's all. Similarly the top will be slower during the air layer process. Energy has to go into making new roots.

 

[AaronThomas]

Air layering

Once again thanks Leo....
Do you recommend girdling or can a tourniquet be used?

 

[leatherback]

This is the tree which you repotted a few weeks back?

I would not do a layer to be honest. I would let it get settled into the pot for now. The energy stores in the plants are low due to the need to rebuild a rootsystem. I prefer to do layers on plants that are optimally healthy to get the best response.

 

[AaronThomas]

would not do a layer to be honest.

Good point! I figured since I didn’t remove too much of the root mass and the tree is really thriving right now I would go for it… However I am in no hurry. I figure I have a good 2 or 3 growing seasons to get the base of this tree where I would like it to be.
Thanks!

 

[Leo in N E Illinois]

I think it is right to wait a year before air layering. For elms, girdling method, as elms form callus and then roots rather quickly. If you start your air layer before the end of June, you usually can separate the upper part before the end of September.

The tourniquet method is much slower. It does not completely block the downward movement of carbohydrates. This method is better for difficult to air layer species, such as pines. Here once the tourniquet is applied, it often takes two to four years to get roots to form. You are less likely to end up with a dead tree using the tourniquet, but then again, when I tried to layer JWP, P. parviflora 'Ibo Can' after 4 years there was zero sign of root growth and finally the top above the tourniquet died. Some trees simply will not air layer.

So tourniquet for slow and difficult species, girdling for easy to root species.