No clue what to do.

[Kevster]

Never having or worked on a Chinese Elm I am a little worried on what to do with this because I don't know their limits. The branch structure is horrid. This tree came from New England Bonsai (had a tag stuck in the pot) and I am not very happy with it. There was so much steel wire left on this tree and it was imbedded in all the branches.

I saw a video of someone cutting all the branches off their tree and starting over. I am considering this.

Also considering layering a few inches above the twist in the lower trunk and using the lower part as some funky broom style then using the top half as a formal upright or what ever is possible after it grows out.

I have several other pictures of this tree on another post. Didn't see the point in uploading more of the same thing.

Oh and something I could not find out is do Chinese elms like humidity? Would it benefit from being in my enclosed tank?

Any suggestions would be appreciated
Thanks Kevin

 

[bonsai barry]

Would it be possible to bend the second branch on the right up to form a new apex?

 

[Bonsai Nut]

I've seen worse, Kevster Good news is they are bullet-proof - you can chop them, air-layer them, defoliate them, and they will respond well. I have some that I used to overwinter in Chicago in an un-heated garage, and then moved to Southern California where they sit outside year round (in full sun with no shade cloth), and they never missed a beat.

If you are going for a traditional look, I agree with Barry that you might consider cutting back the trunk to get a more natural trunk line and better taper. Chinese Elm will bud back strongly even on old trunk bark, so don't worry if the branch placement isn't perfect - you can always grow new branches. One thing you might consider if you go this route - airlayer off the top. If you do it in the Spring you can have an air-layer off the top and in new dirt in just a couple of months - and then you have TWO trees

 

[rockm]

DO NOT put it in a terrarium. You will have endless problems with fungus and black spot. Chinese elms do best outside. Indoors they decline over a few years and finally die off...
If you're unhappy with the branches, prune them off, grow new ones -- I wouldn't bother with the air layer. It's a time-consuming process that can wind up being useless --especially if you're never done it before.

 

[Kevster]

I like that Barry. The branch has a little movement and could be wired into that position!

B Nut I was thinking of layering off the top. It is the very beginning of spring here and although the tree is inside it is pushing new growth as we speak. Could I start the air layer now or should I wait till I can move it outside? And I'll feel much more at ease working on this tree now. I knew they were very forgiving. Just didn't know the extent of work that could be performed on them.

Rock I have done many air layers. Just never on a Chinese elm. Thank you very.much for clearing up the humidity question!

 

[jk_lewis]

I'd chop it even lower. I'd also repot to ensure they roots have good bonsai soil to grow in. As other have said, these trees are foolproof. ,

Rather than layering the top, you will get to work o the lower part sooner, and have other trees to nurture if you cut all the branches off, and use them for cuttings. You can even try to make a cutting of the cut-off trunk. Use rooting hormone. I don't think I've ever had a elm cutting that did not take.

Anyway, here's where I'd chop.

 

[Kevster]

Jkl what hormon would you suggest? I tried a cutting 2 years ago I got from a friend at a nursery and it failed. I did not use rooting hormone because at the time all I had was stuff for soft wood so I used spagnum moss instead.

 

[jk_lewis]

I use Rootone. Available at all nurseries and big box stores.

 

[Kiani]

How about this

 

[grouper52]

JKL's idea is a good one, but I think Kiani's is even better. The base of the trunk is really quite nice until you hit that stove pipe.

If you've got the space, time and inclination, you can probably then plant it in the yard or a HUGE nursery pot over a tile (to force the nebari to develop) for 5-10+ years, and just let 'er grow. Maybe throw a bit of protective clear plastic over/around it if there's a really severe cold snap, but in the high desert in New Mexico at 7500', where the nights got down to -15F at times, they grew so well the farmers had a hard time keeping their fields free of them. They are semi-tropical, and in a bonsai pot they ought to be wintered in a cold frame or in a windowed, unheated garage, but in the ground their roots run deep and they thrive. My climate's a bit more temperate than yours, though we've had some severely cold spells that killed many trees the last few winters, but I've had a dozen Chinese elms of various varieties in the ground for about five years now here and they are growing like gangbusters.

Great little tree - good luck with it, and keep us posted.

 

[tanlu]

I actually like the tree very much. Chinese elms are robust, hardy, adaptable trees that should be grown in partial to full sun outside. They can take heavy pruning, and are easy to style. I think you should remove the apex, and grow out the rest of the tree for a more natural shape you would see in nature.