New plant: Azalea

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Location
Mid Tennessee
USDA Zone
7
Got this guy at a box store Because they were having a sale. I don't really have an eye for trees yet so I want to know if you guys think it's got any potential and if so suggestive stylings for it. Or if I bought a shit tree let me know and I'll take it back. Thanks IMG_20160801_113953603_HDR.jpg IMG_20160801_114009809.jpg
 
I like to find ones a little older where the trunks are already fused....

Don't take it back...

Put it there in front of the concrete!

But I quit Azaleas!

Sorce
 
I decided to go the azalea route because of all the shade my yard gets. Sense I don't have a bench yet I'm trying to keep closer to the patio. Will the trunk fuse together in time? This was the oldest one I could find
 
Are that 2 plants (or are they fused?) Maybe fused below the soil. It's hard to get them untangled, I killed both when I tryed on my rhodo.
 
I might already be fused at the roots, dig around and see what is below. If not, the roots will be tangled beyond separating the two. I have separated double struck ones before but never a pair rooted so close together (just cut straight down the middle between the two). If it were me, I would have passed on it. It is best to get single plants in the pot, hard to find at lowes or home depot, but sometimes they get them in.
 
I thought about taking it outta there and seeing what the situation is but I figured that was an endeavor best left for early spring
 
I thought about taking it outta there and seeing what the situation is but I figured that was an endeavor best left for early spring
Is there a way to encourage fusion above the soil?


No, don't take it out of the pot, just dig around a little bit next to the trunks to see what is under there. When they "up pot" them for the nursery trade, they just pull them out of the smaller pot, stick them in a bigger one and pack soil around and on top of the root mass. It is not uncommon for the flare to be a couple of inches down. Yours doesn't look all that old so don't expect much, but you might be surprised what you will find.

I don't know about fusing, I have seen some on the limbs of large nursery azaleas that I have gotten, but nothing very substantial. I suspect it would take a long time as the bark is real thin. But I am just speculating.

John
 
IMO, sorry, but the trunks don't look good and will never look good together. Unless there's something underneath and you can remove one of the trunks and create a new trunk line.

Sometimes you can find a single trunk azalea with a bit of girth in an old ma and pop nursery. Sometimes, even if they are closed they may still have material "in the back" that has been there so long that the roots have grown into the ground. Therefore they are still alive even if they haven't been watered. Bottom line with nurseries is that you are more likely to find decent material in privately owned garden centers than big box stores.

Just my opinion, good luck
 
Giving it another look I feel I could attempt a double trunk style. Will be pruning and repoting next spring. Unless pruning is suggested before then
 
I realize TIME is ultimately the biggest factor in Bonsai I was just asking if there were any techniques I should be applying
No there really isn't except potting it UP a size or two width wise.
Just guessing from what I can see and the distance from front to
back that is in a trade gallon. This means that root ball is in 3.5
quarts of soil at best--can be as little as 3.25 and still be legal--
and that is all there is. All there is to hold moisture/hold food
(fertilizer) and grow new roots into. Find a large nursery pot. Go
to a nursery if you have to; yes they will probably charge you for it
but usually not all that. You want at least a 5 gallon. Sit your pot
beside it. Mark on the side of the new pot the soil level in the old pot.
Cut the top part of the new one off there. Take it off in one piece. That
is why you want a flimsy nursery pot. Pull your tree out of its old
pot. Center it in the new one. Pot it up in similar soil for now. Grow
on for a few more years to heal your thinning cuts and fatten up those
trunks. A proper angle on a twin trunk can make a tree appear much
thicker than it actually is.
Do not throw away the part you cut off. You did take it off intact right?
Use it as a collar. Same thing you are doing with this one but on the
ground. The collar you created by cutting off the new pot is like a ready
made raised bed form for 1 plant or a bed form to stick a few cuttings
--it never hurts--any of a number of things. Go at it and enjoy.
 
@armetisius also thank you for taking the time out to help me I know there must be alot of "really dude" and eye rolls involved from most so thanks for explaining.
 
So should I get it in a wider pot now or wait till spring?

Do it now. Quicker it is in it the more "settled in" it will be come winter.
The more settled a plant is the better it comes thru Winter's cold. Just
my observations through the years.

Giving it another look I feel I could attempt a double trunk style. Will be pruning and repoting next spring. Unless pruning is suggested before then
Different people -- different choices -- different results.
If you thin in the growing season you will get bud back;
if you thin in the Autumn around when the Oaks are dropping
you won't have as many buds to fight to keep that bit of trunk
line clear; if you wait for bloom then prune you will be busier
than a one armed man hanging wall paper -- beaucoup buds--
that must be picked and directed. Me?
I'd thin in the fall to establish my trunk lines between the trunks
then make my other choices when Spring comes.
 
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