New Juniper

[small trees]

You guys said to post if I have any questions, and I found one. I checked the soil today and it is mostly organic, and is pretty hard-packed. Is there anything that I can do to remedy that at this point or should I wait until later in the season?

 

[Eric Group]

This was my biggest concern when looking at your tree! It looks like a tree that was styled well, but hasn't been TOUCHED in years... My guess would be this tree is horribly root bound, and the growth looks like it is a very dull grayish green color that is normally indicative of a tree that isn't getting enough nutrients... Maybe it is just the photographs that make it look a little off colored, or the lighting, but I think you have a tree that needs some better dirt there. The other sign it is sorely in need of a repot is the way it is pushing itself up out of the pot! This usually happens when the tree has run out of room and the roots have nowhere else to go, so they push the tree up and you wind up seeing that exposed root look. Exposed roots are fine in some kinds and styles of trees, but with junipers, you generally don't want much more than the top/ nebari showing.

Again, these are just my opinions based off a few pics, but your comments about the hard packed organic soil kind of made me feel like this really is an issue. It happens frequently at nurseries when they wind up with too many trees to properly maintain them, they don't get repotted often enough and it CAN kill a tree eventually if not taken care of. I wouldn't probably recommend a repot now- unless you just slip pot it up to a bigger one, but you might want to do a full repot this fall! See what some of the experts here think, but that is my only concern for you now...

Regardless you have a beautiful tree here that was obviously created with skill.. Proper maintenance would be concern #1, then worry about styling it once you see healthy new growth.

Good luck!

 

[Dav4]

You guys said to post if I have any questions, and I found one. I checked the soil today and it is mostly organic, and is pretty hard-packed. Is there anything that I can do to remedy that at this point or should I wait until later in the season?

Have you removed the moss from the soil yet? How does the current soil drain...does water pass right through or does it sit on top? Removing the moss and lightly scraping away the very top of the soil may help. If the soil is really hard and water basically runs off the top or just sits there, I might try to improve things a bit without doing a major re-pot/soil change (which it would need) out of season. Using a chop stick (or screw driver), make several holes down and through the root ball. That will allow water into the middle of the root zone with minimal root disurbance. I've done this with stock similar to yours and had no issues.

 

[small trees]

This was my biggest concern when looking at your tree! It looks like a tree that was styled well, but hasn't been TOUCHED in years... My guess would be this tree is horribly root bound, and the growth looks like it is a very dull grayish green color that is normally indicative of a tree that isn't getting enough nutrients... Maybe it is just the photographs that make it look a little off colored, or the lighting, but I think you have a tree that needs some better dirt there. The other sign it is sorely in need of a repot is the way it is pushing itself up out of the pot! This usually happens when the tree has run out of room and the roots have nowhere else to go, so they push the tree up and you wind up seeing that exposed root look. Exposed roots are fine in some kinds and styles of trees, but with junipers, you generally don't want much more than the top/ nebari showing.

Again, these are just my opinions based off a few pics, but your comments about the hard packed organic soil kind of made me feel like this really is an issue. It happens frequently at nurseries when they wind up with too many trees to properly maintain them, they don't get repotted often enough and it CAN kill a tree eventually if not taken care of. I wouldn't probably recommend a repot now- unless you just slip pot it up to a bigger one, but you might want to do a full repot this fall! See what some of the experts here think, but that is my only concern for you now...

Regardless you have a beautiful tree here that was obviously created with skill.. Proper maintenance would be concern #1, then worry about styling it once you see healthy new growth.

Good luck!

I'll do a lot of reading in my spare time and gather information from here to decide a course of action as far as repotting goes. It definitely looks like it could use a new medium though.

Have you removed the moss from the soil yet? How does the current soil drain...does water pass right through or does it sit on top? Removing the moss and lightly scraping away the very top of the soil may help. If the soil is really hard and water basically runs off the top or just sits there, I might try to improve things a bit without doing a major re-pot/soil change (which it would need) out of season. Using a chop stick (or screw driver), make several holes down and through the root ball. That will allow water into the middle of the root zone with minimal root disurbance. I've done this with stock similar to yours and had no issues.

I have removed some of the moss, but not all of it. I will try using a chop stick tonight if I have time. I was looking for something like that that would be minimally invasive for now.

 

[october]

What happens when you water? Does it sit on the surface and not go into the soil. Also, can you poke your finger down into the soil anywhere? Have you looked undder the pot to see if roots are growing through the holes?

Although Spring is the best time to repot, you can also repot in Fall. However, a total overhaul of the root system like this will require, will mean the tree will need winter protection. Meaning no freezing temps and at least a few hours of sun per day. Now, I am not talking about keeping it inside the house this winter, that would not be good. However, it would have to be a place that stays between 45-60 degrees with sun and proper humidity. After this upcoming winter though, normal wintering conditions can be resumed.

If you wait until this Spring to repot. You could do it in the very beginning of Spring. by the time the Winter comes around, the tree should have built up enough strength to do normal wintering practices.

There is also the remedy of slip potting it. However, you will need to be careful with watering considering you will have a solid brick root ball in the middle of loose, well draining soil.

Rob

 

[GO-OK]

1) Using a screwdriver or chopstick to push holes into the soil is a very short term solution that makes things worse fast. It punches soil out around the holes and compacts the surrounding soil further. Use a drill pit the depth of the pot and drill 10-15 holes straight down from the surface to the bottom of the pot. This will pull a tiny bit of old soil out and let air/ water into the root ball and give roots now space to colonize. I have done this on a huge number of root bound trees with great results.

2) clean out all dead foliage as a first step. It blocks light and air and encourages fungal growth and bugs...spider mites.

3)once that's done get in some sun and monitor you watering every day.

Next season get it into some decent soil. Once you see strong growth tips open the canopy up a little with some judicious pruning.

 

[GO-OK]

I forgot....don't remove old bark on a pro umbels. They look best with the flaky old bark. But you should clean and treat the shari. Not for simple looks but for hygiene and maintenance.

 

[small trees]

Soil is pretty slow-draining; water sits on top for a good while before being absorbed. I'll have to see if I can find a drill. If not, I may have to make do with the chopstick idea for the time being.

 

[Leo in N E Illinois]

About treating this tree with fungicides and or pestacides.

Its a great tree. I have seen more than one expensive disaster from incorrect dosing of fungicides in particular.

You mentioned spider mites, I have seen damage by mites, both true spider mites and false spider mites, that looks like fungal, bacterial or viral problems. Anytime I think something is off, and possibly a fungus, I tripple check to make sure it is not really mites. Treat for mites first if you think you have both. Clearing up mites and other insects may actually take care of the 'fungus'. Often bacterial and fungal pathogens are not primary, but rather secondary, in that they enter, and take advantage of damage done by the mites and or insects.

Once you are sure the insect problem is under control. Better than 50% of the time fungal issues can be cured by selecting a better location for the tree to grow in. Junipers need sun, and good air movement. Site the tree so it gets 8 or more hours of sun in summer. Don't crowd other trees or plants around it, keep enough space that the air can move freely, 6 inches between the tips of this tree's foliage to the next tree's is a workable minimum. It is not a precise science. Good air movement is what is needed.

Last, if you still think you have a fungus. Treat with a product labelled approved for junipers, and follow directions, both for the tree's sake, and for your own health, wear protective gear. Gloves, safety glasses are minimum.

 

[october]

Soil is pretty slow-draining; water sits on top for a good while before being absorbed. I'll have to see if I can find a drill. If not, I may have to make do with the chopstick idea for the time being.

DO NOT drill down into the soil with a drill. Use a chopstick or some kind of skewer only. Drills can tangle the roots, rip roots and can become hot.

If drainage is really that bad, you can slip pot the tree into a larger pot with good soil on the bottom and all around the root ball. Make sure there is excellent drainage.

Rob

 

[coh]

Rob, this is not meant as an attack on your post, but I know that Bill V. has stated numerous times that he will use a drill to open up the root mass if it becomes too compacted. It probably damages more roots than simply poking a hole with a screwdriver or chopstick (which is what I tend to do), but it is a technique that people use.

Chris

 

[october]

Rob, this is not meant as an attack on your post, but I know that Bill V. has stated numerous times that he will use a drill to open up the root mass if it becomes too compacted. It probably damages more roots than simply poking a hole with a screwdriver or chopstick (which is what I tend to do), but it is a technique that people use.

Chris

The pot that this tree is in is relatively small. I have a feeling that there is a stump and then the pot is packed with roots. It is best to not take the chance of ripping any roots or drilling into the unknown. This tree is not the healthiest and even taking out a small section, with such a small root ball, is not a good idea. In this case, why not just slip pot it.

I still stand by my comment of not drilling down into the soil with this tree.

Also, in many cases, Bill is dealing with much larger stock and much more root mass. Also, Bill has 50 years experience.

Rob

 

[small trees]

I want you guys to know that I am not taking any actions without reading up as well as getting plenty of feedback from you guys. I apologize if I ask 'dumb' questions or things that I should probably always know but it is my opinion that it is much better to ask twice and be sure than to ask once and possibly act incorrectly.

I would prefer to slip-pot it as recommended, but I will need to get some soil first. That can be done sometime this week if I choose to go that route. As for right now, I am just reading what you guys are saying and reading around online to try to pick the best course of action for the tree.

Also, I don't take any references to my lack of experience or anything like that as a slight. It's true, which is why I'm here to ask questions. I appreciate all of the help you guys have given me so far.

 

[coh]

The pot that this tree is in is relatively small. I have a feeling that there is a stump and then the pot is packed with roots. It is best to not take the chance of ripping any roots or drilling into the unknown. This tree is not the healthiest and even taking out a small section, with such a small root ball, is not a good idea. In this case, why not just slip pot it.

I still stand by my comment of not drilling down into the soil with this tree.

Also, in many cases, Bill is dealing with much larger stock and much more root mass. Also, Bill has 50 years experience.

Rob

The only way to get the experience is by doing...if you spend 50 years not doing stuff because you don't have 50 years of experience, where will you be?

Anyway, I don't want to argue, just point out that people do use drills to deal with this kind of problem. Your post made it sound like it's something that no one would (or should) ever do. Slip potting is probably best, but if that current root mass is not draining well, it should still be opened up a bit...method is up to the owner.

Chris

 

[october]

I want you guys to know that I am not taking any actions without reading up as well as getting plenty of feedback from you guys. I apologize if I ask 'dumb' questions or things that I should probably always know but it is my opinion that it is much better to ask twice and be sure than to ask once and possibly act incorrectly.

I would prefer to slip-pot it as recommended, but I will need to get some soil first. That can be done sometime this week if I choose to go that route. As for right now, I am just reading what you guys are saying and reading around online to try to pick the best course of action for the tree.

Also, I don't take any references to my lack of experience or anything like that as a slight. It's true, which is why I'm here to ask questions. I appreciate all of the help you guys have given me so far.

Georgia, you have not asked any dumb questions, but rather have asked very good questions. When Bill was mentioned and 50 years experience, it was more in a decision capacity. Such as someone with 50 years experience might have a certain course of action that they would take if this was their tree, given it's health, size and situation.

You will find many disagreements in the bonsai world. My reply was just to possibly prevent something happening to your tree. I always give replies that stay on the side of being cautious.

Rob

 

[small trees]

The only way to get the experience is by doing...if you spend 50 years not doing stuff because you don't have 50 years of experience, where will you be?

Anyway, I don't want to argue, just point out that people do use drills to deal with this kind of problem. Your post made it sound like it's something that no one would (or should) ever do. Slip potting is probably best, but if that current root mass is not draining well, it should still be opened up a bit...method is up to the owner.

Chris

I believe that someone mentioned earlier that I should perform any techniques I am not familiar with on a cheap, box-store tree so that I don't learn lessons while working with trees with potential. That is probably the best suggestion for me if there are any risky maneuvers being discussed.

Georgia, you have not asked any dumb questions, but rather have asked very good questions. When Bill was mentioned and 50 years experience, it was more in a decision capacity. Such as someone with 50 years experience might have a certain course of action that they would take if this was their tree, given it's health, size and situation.

You will find many disagreements in the bonsai world. My reply was just to possibly prevent something happening to your tree. I always give replies that stay on the side of being cautious.

Rob

Thank you for the kind words. I didn't really think about you mentioning his experience, but I thought I would throw that out there. I know that in all walks of life, there seem to be people who 'know it all' when they really don't have a clue, and they refuse to listen to others with more experience. I just wanted to make it clear that I'm not one of those people. I'll continue to read what you guys have to say and try to absorb useful information. Once again, thanks for all the help!

 

[october]

Any updates?

Rob

 

[small trees]

Any updates?

Rob

Yes. Unfortunately, I am going through some serious anxiety/depression issues that are apparently due to some events in my childhood. I'm undergoing therapy and am taking medication, but I don't think that I need to be caring for this tree right now. I'm barely keeping myself together between these issues and school. It is not being tended to as it should be.

With that being said, if anyone is within reasonable driving distance, I think it is best for the tree if I sell it. Current pictures can be taken, but it is in about the same health as it was in the OP. I'll be glad to transport it. I don't want to get rid of it, but I would much rather someone knowledgeable and able to take good care of it take it off of my hands. I have finals coming up and so I might not be on here very often. If you are interested, I am located in Savannah, Georgia and you can contact me at sclark5@stu.southuniversity.edu for a quick response.


edit: I may have to post this in the for sale section, but I don't have a price in mind to be honest. Contact me with an offer and we can negotiate gas/transportation.

 

[Dav4]

I have another option for you. If you are interested, I would be willing to keep your juniper at my house until you either want to have it back or find a buyer...no strings attached. PM me if you are interested...I live just north of Atlanta, so a three hour drive one way. Good luck with all you are dealing with right now.

Dave

 

[small trees]

Thanks a lot! I shot you a message.