New brazilian rain tree. Seeking advise!

Napa Bandit

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I've had this BRT for 3 weeks now. I got it off a friend who is big on bonsai trees. He let me pick one of his trees to take home . I picked this one so I definitely want to take good care of it. A few questions I had...

1. I have this tree indoors under a grow light. The grow light is about 14 inchs away from the tree. How often should I water it. I currently water it once a day at 10am in the morning. I bought a moisture meter but I feel like it's a hit or miss cause of the organic bonsai soil it's in. ( Not the typical black soil that's can easily tell if its wet or dry ). Any advice Moving forward with watering?

Also I live in Napa Valley, California!

2. Is over wiring a thing? I noticed he had about 5 different wires going.
Any other advice you can give me as I am a beginner and this is my first Bonsai! Thank you!
 

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As nobody seems to have chimed in, I'll jump in with some fellow newbie advise. Depending upon the type of lights you are using, it may be a bit too far but it should be fine. Watering is harder to explain and we should start with the notion that we don't water on a schedule, but rather when the tree needs the water. A moisture meter is basically useless in bonsai soil (it's made for potting soil), but a chopstick in the soil seems to work for others. I don't personally use one and just check on the soil before I go to work to see what's going on. At the risk of overstating, I'm more concerned with ensuring the trees don't dry out and less concerned that about overwatering trees in a grow tent that are actively growing under lights and in basically inorganic soil.

I guess overwiring can be a thing, but 5 wires is far from a lot. Bigger question is what is being wired and why?

Best advice I can give is take a step back from the tree and think about what your long term goals for it may be. This is a hard thing to determine when we are just getting started. Your ultimate goals for the tree will begin to dictate your next steps. Take the time to learn about your tree from hands on experience and about bonsai generally. BRT are fun and beautiful. I needlessly wrecked and killed so many trees because I didn't internalize that bonsai is really a long term project and that we develop our trees incrementally over many many years. Much better to keep the tree alive and healthy as you figure things out than to start with a whole bunch of chopping and wiring and then putting it into the garbage pile.

Some of the more basic questions I try to ask myself when starting with a new tree is (i) how tall will the tree be; (ii) what will be the ratio of trunk thickness at base to height; (ii) how much taper; (iv) what kind of movement, if any; and (v) what style am I shooting for. With some answers in mind, the journey can begin. I want to make sure my nebari is growing well from the get go and then start developing the trunk. As the trunk gets closer to my goal, I can give the branching more attention.

So much of this art is subjective preference. Some like giant trunks and will grow the trees out for long periods of time before getting started. Some want a much smaller specimen. Formal upright to informal to "S" shapes. One guy's masterpiece can elicit a response such as "is that what a tree really looks like?". Levels of refinement are also a matter of taste and goals (not to mention time). There aren't a heck of a lot of "right" answers for subjective tastes. Once we can express our subjective tastes, however, there are various "right" answers on how to move forward towards that goal.

Personally, I would like to develop really nice trees at some point. I am happy to say that after 4 years of this, I am finally realizing some of the goals I had in mind when I started bonsai - namely, enjoying the journey and my trees. And frankly, I think my trees are actually getting on a better development path because of this new mentality. Nowadays I try to make a multi-year plan for trees that I am actually working on (as opposed to growing out). Seeing a multi-year plan in front of me helps keep my urge to butcher the trees at bay.
 
As nobody seems to have chimed in, I'll jump in with some fellow newbie advise. Depending upon the type of lights you are using, it may be a bit too far but it should be fine. Watering is harder to explain and we should start with the notion that we don't water on a schedule, but rather when the tree needs the water. A moisture meter is basically useless in bonsai soil (it's made for potting soil), but a chopstick in the soil seems to work for others. I don't personally use one and just check on the soil before I go to work to see what's going on. At the risk of overstating, I'm more concerned with ensuring the trees don't dry out and less concerned that about overwatering trees in a grow tent that are actively growing under lights and in basically inorganic soil.

I guess overwiring can be a thing, but 5 wires is far from a lot. Bigger question is what is being wired and why?

Best advice I can give is take a step back from the tree and think about what your long term goals for it may be. This is a hard thing to determine when we are just getting started. Your ultimate goals for the tree will begin to dictate your next steps. Take the time to learn about your tree from hands on experience and about bonsai generally. BRT are fun and beautiful. I needlessly wrecked and killed so many trees because I didn't internalize that bonsai is really a long term project and that we develop our trees incrementally over many many years. Much better to keep the tree alive and healthy as you figure things out than to start with a whole bunch of chopping and wiring and then putting it into the garbage pile.

Some of the more basic questions I try to ask myself when starting with a new tree is (i) how tall will the tree be; (ii) what will be the ratio of trunk thickness at base to height; (ii) how much taper; (iv) what kind of movement, if any; and (v) what style am I shooting for. With some answers in mind, the journey can begin. I want to make sure my nebari is growing well from the get go and then start developing the trunk. As the trunk gets closer to my goal, I can give the branching more attention.

So much of this art is subjective preference. Some like giant trunks and will grow the trees out for long periods of time before getting started. Some want a much smaller specimen. Formal upright to informal to "S" shapes. One guy's masterpiece can elicit a response such as "is that what a tree really looks like?". Levels of refinement are also a matter of taste and goals (not to mention time). There aren't a heck of a lot of "right" answers for subjective tastes. Once we can express our subjective tastes, however, there are various "right" answers on how to move forward towards that goal.

Personally, I would like to develop really nice trees at some point. I am happy to say that after 4 years of this, I am finally realizing some of the goals I had in mind when I started bonsai - namely, enjoying the journey and my trees. And frankly, I think my trees are actually getting on a better development path because of this new mentality. Nowadays I try to make a multi-year plan for trees that I am actually working on (as opposed to growing out). Seeing a multi-year plan in front of me helps keep my urge to butcher the trees at bay.
Awesome, thank you for your response and advice! I have attached a picture of the exact grow light I'm using . Is this okay? I have also attached a picture showing the distance away my BRT is from the grow light.( About 14 to 15 inchs away ) is this okay? as for your advice regarding a chopstick, can you please elaborate a little bit more on it as I have not read any techniques utilizing a chopstick, very interested in this. Also a new question, I noticed a couple very tiny white spiders maybe on a couple of the leaves. Is this normal or should i do something? Thank you again!
 

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People will place a chopstick into the soil and leave it there. The chopstick can be removed to check if it is wet and if the soil needs watering. Not much more to it than that. Not sure about the spiders.

Here's something from the interwebs on grow lights:

The distance between grow lights and seedlings depends on the type of light and the stage of growth of the seedlings:

  • LED lights
    Place LED grow lights 8–12 inches above seedlings. If the light is adjustable, you can start at a lower intensity, around 30%, and increase it as the seedlings grow.

  • T5 fluorescents
    Place T5 fluorescents 5–6 inches above seedlings.

  • Light intensity
    Seedlings are delicate in the early stages of growth and need less light intensity. If the leaves of your seedlings turn yellow or brown and burn, starting with the upper leaves, they may be getting too much light.

    • PAR meter
      You can use a PAR meter to measure the amount of photosynthetically active radiation (PAR) your seedlings are getting. The goal is to deliver 120–150 micromoles/sec-m2 of PAR.
    • Light cycle
      For best results, you can grow seedlings under an 18/6 light cycle, which means 18 hours of light and 6 hours of darkness.




 
People will place a chopstick into the soil and leave it there. The chopstick can be removed to check if it is wet and if the soil needs watering. Not much more to it than that. Not sure about the spiders.

Here's something from the interwebs on grow lights:

The distance between grow lights and seedlings depends on the type of light and the stage of growth of the seedlings:

  • LED lights
    Place LED grow lights 8–12 inches above seedlings. If the light is adjustable, you can start at a lower intensity, around 30%, and increase it as the seedlings grow.

  • T5 fluorescents
    Place T5 fluorescents 5–6 inches above seedlings.

  • Light intensity
    Seedlings are delicate in the early stages of growth and need less light intensity. If the leaves of your seedlings turn yellow or brown and burn, starting with the upper leaves, they may be getting too much light.

    • PAR meter
      You can use a PAR meter to measure the amount of photosynthetically active radiation (PAR) your seedlings are getting. The goal is to deliver 120–150 micromoles/sec-m2 of PAR.
    • Light cycle
      For best results, you can grow seedlings under an 18/6 light cycle, which means 18 hours of light and 6 hours of darkness.



Thank you for this!!
 
I don't know if this is the right way but I water mine every day in very high humidity, I also have grow lights 3ish inches away. 2-3 weeks after placement, mine seemed to adjust and sprout new growth. I was surprised at how well they do inside. You probably have some good sunlight you could also take advantage of.
 
I don't know if this is the right way but I water mine every day in very high humidity, I also have grow lights 3ish inches away. 2-3 weeks after placement, mine seemed to adjust and sprout new growth. I was surprised at how well they do inside. You probably have some good sunlight you could also take advantage of.
Ok thank you for this advice 🙏
 
Awesome, thank you for your response and advice! I have attached a picture of the exact grow light I'm using . Is this okay? I have also attached a picture showing the distance away my BRT is from the grow light.( About 14 to 15 inchs away ) is this okay? as for your advice regarding a chopstick, can you please elaborate a little bit more on it as I have not read any techniques utilizing a chopstick, very interested in this. Also a new question, I noticed a couple very tiny white spiders maybe on a couple of the leaves. Is this normal or should i do something? Thank you again!
May I ask why you're doing this indoors? I presume Napa Valley has pretty good weather.
 
I would suggest asking these questions and others along with general care info from your friend that you received tree from since they probably live in your area and already knows the tree
 
If it's above 40 degrees, I would keep it outside. Mine do fine all winter under grow lights though, even need a trim here and there. Watering everyday seems excessive indoors. Use the chopstick method mentioned above or just stick your finger in the soil. I usually water mine every other day or so as needed.
 
May I ask why you're doing this indoors? I presume Napa Valley has pretty good weather.
Because it is constantly raining here in napa right now as it's winter. Last winter we got a lil snow. It is very windy as well. I figured it had to be grown indoors during winter until spring...
 
I would suggest asking these questions and others along with general care info from your friend that you received tree from since they probably live in your area and already knows the tree
Ok thank you
 
If it's above 40 degrees, I would keep it outside. Mine do fine all winter under grow lights though, even need a trim here and there. Watering everyday seems excessive indoors. Use the chopstick method mentioned above or just stick your finger in the soil. I usually water mine every other day or so as needed.
Thank you for this advice!
 
Because it is constantly raining here in napa right now as it's winter. Last winter we got a lil snow. It is very windy as well. I figured it had to be grown indoors during winter until spring...
Well, I wish you good luck...
 
If it's above 40 degrees, I would keep it outside. Mine do fine all winter under grow lights though, even need a trim here and there. Watering everyday seems excessive indoors. Use the chopstick method mentioned above or just stick your finger in the soil. I usually water mine every other day or so as needed.
Thank you for this advice
Well, I wish you good luck...
Thank you!
 
Awesome, thank you for your response and advice! I have attached a picture of the exact grow light I'm using . Is this okay? I have also attached a picture showing the distance away my BRT is from the grow light.( About 14 to 15 inchs away ) is this okay?
As far as distance from the plant goes... place the light as close to the plant as possible without burning the leaves.

Burning your leaves is the only limitation on how close a light can be, and of course the further away the light is the less the plant will be able to absorb.. so you will probly just find a natural balance. 🙂
 
As far as distance from the plant goes... place the light as close to the plant as possible without burning the leaves.

Burning your leaves is the only limitation on how close a light can be, and of course the further away the light is the less the plant will be able to absorb.. so you will probly just find a natural balance. 🙂
Thank you!
 
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