New Bloodgood project

[coopster23]

While on a trip to Home Depot to rent a carpet cleaner today, I came across this bloodgood I had to have. It has great flare—though the roots themselves could use some work—and there’s a pair of decently thick branches low down.

I’m leaning towards air layering above the first set of branches and keeping the upper half for a regular tree. Makes me a little nervous, though. Out of 5 or 6 air layers I’ve attempted, two bridged the gap and the others eventually died above the layer. Any thoughts?

 

[RoadManDenDron]

If the gap is bridging you need to start out with a bigger gap!

it has to be easier for the tree to grow new roots, than to heal the wound, or the tree will heal the wound.

I'm not 100% from a pic but it looks like the graft may be around those first branches, if you use below the graft your foliage is likely to be standard JM.

 

[BonjourBonsai]

In the second to last photo, it looks like there is a branch just below what looks like the graft. Do the leaves on that branch look different from the others?

 

[RoadManDenDron]

Thats exactly the part that was confusing me also!

If you look at the line I assume to be a graft, that branch could be from the top section its right at the join I think

 

[Srt8madness]

No advice on the tree but I see your thumb is double jointed!

 

[eplov90]

I've heard mixed reviews on Bloodgood's ease of airlayering. It doesn't sound like the most consistent.

It is a variety that doesn't respond as well as others in terms of internode and leaf size reduction so you will need to keep it quite large if you want to achieve a believable look. That's the reason you don't see many thread progressions on Bloodgoods here despite it being one of the most commonly available varieties.

If you go down that path, you should probably keep growing it out a little longer.

 

[Gaitano]

I bought a bloodgood from ALDIs about 10 years ago. It popped an Acer palmatum branch below the graft so I chopped the top and kept the bottom, regrew the top.

 

[The Warm Canuck]

I haven't had the greatest success air layering bloodgoods as well. Like @RoadManDenDron says, make sure you make a good long cut out of the bark.

After scraping, I'd also apply some alcohol on the cambium and let it dry our for a few days before covering the layer.

 

[coopster23]

I’m pretty sure that spot is just bark damage; the other side of the tree is uniformly-colored and all leaves on the tree are red.

I read the same thing you guys are saying about long internodes and big leaves—after buying the tree, of course. I’m hoping a bonsai (on the slightly larger side) works out, because this won’t work as a landscaping tree for me. I’m renting a house and I’m not leaving anything behind for my sucky landlords when I go, lol.

 

[River's Edge]

While on a trip to Home Depot to rent a carpet cleaner today, I came across this bloodgood I had to have. It has great flare—though the roots themselves could use some work—and there’s a pair of decently thick branches low down.

I’m leaning towards air layering above the first set of branches and keeping the upper half for a regular tree. Makes me a little nervous, though. Out of 5 or 6 air layers I’ve attempted, two bridged the gap and the others eventually died above the layer. Any thoughts?

View attachment 541721View attachment 541722View attachment 541723

I would not be too discouraged by what you read regarding the species, I have seen some beautiful high quality Bonsai from Bloodgood. With time and development the leaf size and internode length can be mastered. They do have several advantages in thatchy can handle much sunnier locations and are very cold hardy compared to other maples species. I rarely see them grafted in this neck of the woods, they are usually grown from seed. Yours does not look grafted to me.
For the air layer perhaps use a combined approach with wire tourniquet just below the top cut, then cut a wider section to help prevent bridging! The wider section combined with the wire will alleviate bridging problems. Using a sharp edge and scarping after bark removal will also assist the bridging aspect. One other tip is to apply the rooting hormone and let it dry on be in contact with the edge for an hour before enclosing in the damp substrate and closing up. This will improve the rooting hormone effect on the cut edge.
Plan for a 24inch to 30 inch maple and the size will assist with the final look. I would not attempt a smaller version unless you have excellent refinement skills.

 

[coopster23]

I would not be too discouraged by what you read regarding the species, I have seen some beautiful high quality Bonsai from Bloodgood. With time and development the leaf size and internode length can be mastered. They do have several advantages in thatchy can handle much sunnier locations and are very cold hardy compared to other maples species. I rarely see them grafted in this neck of the woods, they are usually grown from seed. Yours does not look grafted to me.
For the air layer perhaps use a combined approach with wire tourniquet just below the top cut, then cut a wider section to help prevent bridging! The wider section combined with the wire will alleviate bridging problems. Using a sharp edge and scarping after bark removal will also assist the bridging aspect. One other tip is to apply the rooting hormone and let it dry on be in contact with the edge for an hour before enclosing in the damp substrate and closing up. This will improve the rooting hormone effect on the cut edge.
Plan for a 24inch to 30 inch maple and the size will assist with the final look. I would not attempt a smaller version unless you have excellent refinement skills.

I did (most) of what you suggested; I forgot the wire tourniquet. Here's to hoping it succeeds!

 

[River's Edge]

I did (most) of what you suggested; I forgot the wire tourniquet. Here's to hoping it succeeds!

Best of luck! Keep up the fertilizer and watering. Includingmaintaining moisture in the air layer wrap or container.

 

[RKatzin]

Best of luck! Keep up the fertilizer and watering. Includingmaintaining moisture in the air layer wrap or container.

Thanks for the airlayering tips. I have a few failed layers and was wondering how to approach them this season. Almost all made good callus, but not roots. They're just leafing out now and I was going to wait until the new leaves harden off before tearing into them. I like the wire idea and will try that. One is a Makawa yatsubusa and the other happens to be an Atropurpureum, very similar to the Bloodgood, some how related.

 

[River's Edge]

Thanks for the airlayering tips. I have a few failed layers and was wondering how to approach them this season. Almost all made good callus, but not roots. They're just leafing out now and I was going to wait until the new leaves harden off before tearing into them. I like the wire idea and will try that. One is a Makawa yatsubusa and the other happens to be an Atropurpureum, very similar to the Bloodgood, some how related.

If you are not having much luck it often pays to strengthen the mother plant for a while with extra fertilizer and careful watering routine. The stronger and healthier the plant is the better the odds for a successful airliner. Often this is a predatory step that gets neglected. Making sure the plant is vigorous ahead of time. Some cultivars are just more difficult but definitely worth the effort. If I had to vBut I would ote for the best timing for air layering maples I would pick after the first growth has hardened off!

 

[RKatzin]

If you are not having much luck it often pays to strengthen the mother plant for a while with extra fertilizer and careful watering routine. The stronger and healthier the plant is the better the odds for a successful airliner. Often this is a predatory step that gets neglected. Making sure the plant is vigorous ahead of time. Some cultivars are just more difficult but definitely worth the effort. If I had to vBut I would ote for the best timing for air layering maples I would pick after the first growth has hardened off!

Admittedly, some of the projects were on newly acquired nursery stock that was not in prime condition, but the Makawa yatsubusa and Atropurpureum have been in my care for quite a while and I pumped them up for a few seasons prior to attempting the work. Now, part of that was just plain old fear of the unknown, but I had the opportunity to work with Lee Cheatle from the Portland Bonsai Society in a workshop last year and we did the Makawa then. That got me over the hump and I did about ten, with one Kiyohime in the pot, five still going and four dead sticks. I'm ready for round two!

 

[River's Edge]

Admittedly, some of the projects were on newly acquired nursery stock that was not in prime condition, but the Makawa yatsubusa and Atropurpureum have been in my care for quite a while and I pumped them up for a few seasons prior to attempting the work. Now, part of that was just plain old fear of the unknown, but I had the opportunity to work with Lee Cheatle from the Portland Bonsai Society in a workshop last year and we did the Makawa then. That got me over the hump and I did about ten, with one Kiyohime in the pot, five still going and four dead sticks. I'm ready for round two!

Ah yes, the opportunity to learn under guided practise. Practise with correction if needed. Such an old fashioned way to improve. Attention to detail and an understanding that things take time. It does make a difference. Worthwhile mentioning this method of learning. Works really well for some

 

[RKatzin]

Ah yes, the opportunity to learn under guided practise. Practise with correction if needed. Such an old fashioned way to improve. Attention to detail and an understanding that things take time. It does make a difference. Worthwhile mentioning this method of learning. Works really well for some

Well, frankly Frank, I am an old fashioned kind of guy. I don't follow the utube video set, though there's a few I enjoy, but with my remote top of the mountain location, cell service is sketchy at best, and videos are hard to watch. They skitter and pause every time the signal flutters.
These little sessions with trained professionals are my bonsai bread and butter. This forum is my meat and potatoes, but I need that sweet sop whenever I can get it.