Need Help With Some Leaf Issues

Paulkellum

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Ok here are some pictures I don't understand whats going on I spray every 2 weeks as a preventive especially here in NC where the humidity is a killer. Its not the whole plant but I spray under and upper leaf with Daconil in backpack sprayer. Any Suggestions on this.
 

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The First 2 are Japanese Maple and second 2 are two different crabapples
 
The maple looks to have insect damage, the second looks to be from slugs/snails specifically.

The first crabapple pic I get sometimes, but it's not widespread. I think it's fungal. I remove the affected leaves (I've never had more than a few) and the problem is generally solved. The last picture, I can't say definitively. I'd remove it and keep an eye out for more.

As a general rule, if more than about 10% of your plants leaves are affected in a similar manner, like your first pic, it's time to take chemical measures. If it's less than that, I try to use mechanical measures (leaf removal, removing insects by hand, etc.).
 
The first one is not insect its fungus as long with the second one. A slug/snail doesn't cause tinny leaves to curl up black edges. I just need to know what to do Daconil I thought was a good one but am I in need of a different fungicide. Can you use copper fungicide on Japanese maples. Iv been spraying it every two week with fungicide blended with insecticide. Anyone know what I'm doing wrong
 
Could be a water issue. Had that problem with some maples. Looked fungal but when I fixed the roots it stopped. I think it's a combination.
 
Is the "blend" premixed?

Maybe it is this spraying?
 
These problems are caused by too much nitrogen in your fertilizer. The second maple photo shows nitrate induced chlorisis, which is very similar to lime induced chlorosis, there may also be an issue with soil pH with these plants.

I have been dealing with this issue in my maples for many years. It occurs with a combination of warm soil, elevated pH and excessive nitrogen in the fertilizer.

Paul
 
These problems are caused by too much nitrogen in your fertilizer. The second maple photo shows nitrate induced chlorisis, which is very similar to lime induced chlorosis, there may also be an issue with soil pH with these plants.

I have been dealing with this issue in my maples for many years. It occurs with a combination of warm soil, elevated pH and excessive nitrogen in the fertilizer.

Paul

This is an answer I can totally believe! I was waiting to post in this thread hoping someone would present a viable response for the issue in picture 2, because I have experienced the same thing with MANY of my Maples over the years. In years past I thought first it was insect damage- assuming it was some sort of sap sucker draining the vigor from young growth, but I rarely saw the insect son my trees and usually you SEE aphids, white fly or whatever is causing it!

Next my assumption was fungal attack.. Well ok. So I sprayed. I tried Neem Oil, which is my standard go to, cure everything. It kills bugs if you mix it pretty hot, it discourages fungal attacks if you treat with a mild solution in early Spring and through the year.. Good stuff and it is organic so it doesn't get as nasty to work with as some other stuff... It is even fine for vegetables and you can harvest as soon as one day after you use it, rinse the veggies off and they are fine to eat... So, it don't worry about burning leaves and that kind of stuff with this solution (unless applied in full sun during the heat of the day). I have moved up as far as copper an even lime sulfer at times.. But I still see this leaf deformity once the summer heat kicked in and I couldn't figure out what it is!

Your explanation makes total sense in relation to my fertilizing regimen and what I had decided was a large contributor to the malady- HEAT! Mine tend to show this issue during the summer only. Spring growth is perfect, nice color, great shape... By fall the new growth starts looking normal again... During summer, all small and scruffy looking! I usually use a mild organic fert, but I do dose most of my trees with regular old liquid gold a couple times during the Spring and early Summer- AKA Miracle Grow. That is like a 20-20-20.. which means it is busting with Nitrogen (and everything Else). They may have even gotten a taste of some Miracid once after fertilizing my azaleas! That is even more stacked toward the Nitrogen side.. So the soil is probably bursting with it. I guess in my mind I assumed nitrogen would be a needed nutrient for trees producing so many leaves the way all my JMs have been this year. One of the only trees that did not give me that look on the new growth was planted in the ground, and transplanted a little later than I normally do for my deciduous trees, so I laid off the ferts until recently to make sure I didn't stress it. This- in light if your diagnosis- makes sense that it would not have the Nitrogen "poisoning" my other trees have shown.

I have to say man, I think you hit the nail on the head, it was SO obvious, right in front of my face and I never figured it out! You may have just single handedly dramatically improved the health Os my JMs going forward! Thanks!

JFTR, my Tridents have not really shown any signs of this damage at all. Are they perhaps more tolerant of Nitrogen and heat? Does anyone know?
 
This is an answer I can totally believe! I was waiting to post in this thread hoping someone would present a viable response for the issue in picture 2, because I have experienced the same thing with MANY of my Maples over the years. In years past I thought first it was insect damage- assuming it was some sort of sap sucker draining the vigor from young growth, but I rarely saw the insect son my trees and usually you SEE aphids, white fly or whatever is causing it!

Next my assumption was fungal attack.. Well ok. So I sprayed. I tried Neem Oil, which is my standard go to, cure everything. It kills bugs if you mix it pretty hot, it discourages fungal attacks if you treat with a mild solution in early Spring and through the year.. Good stuff and it is organic so it doesn't get as nasty to work with as some other stuff... It is even fine for vegetables and you can harvest as soon as one day after you use it, rinse the veggies off and they are fine to eat... So, it don't worry about burning leaves and that kind of stuff with this solution (unless applied in full sun during the heat of the day). I have moved up as far as copper an even lime sulfer at times.. But I still see this leaf deformity once the summer heat kicked in and I couldn't figure out what it is!

Your explanation makes total sense in relation to my fertilizing regimen and what I had decided was a large contributor to the malady- HEAT! Mine tend to show this issue during the summer only. Spring growth is perfect, nice color, great shape... By fall the new growth starts looking normal again... During summer, all small and scruffy looking! I usually use a mild organic fert, but I do dose most of my trees with regular old liquid gold a couple times during the Spring and early Summer- AKA Miracle Grow. That is like a 20-20-20.. which means it is busting with Nitrogen (and everything Else). They may have even gotten a taste of some Miracid once after fertilizing my azaleas! That is even more stacked toward the Nitrogen side.. So the soil is probably bursting with it. I guess in my mind I assumed nitrogen would be a needed nutrient for trees producing so many leaves the way all my JMs have been this year. One of the only trees that did not give me that look on the new growth was planted in the ground, and transplanted a little later than I normally do for my deciduous trees, so I laid off the ferts until recently to make sure I didn't stress it. This- in light if your diagnosis- makes sense that it would not have the Nitrogen "poisoning" my other trees have shown.

I have to say man, I think you hit the nail on the head, it was SO obvious, right in front of my face and I never figured it out! You may have just single handedly dramatically improved the health Os my JMs going forward! Thanks!

JFTR, my Tridents have not really shown any signs of this damage at all. Are they perhaps more tolerant of Nitrogen and heat? Does anyone know?

These problems are caused by too much nitrogen in your fertilizer. The second maple photo shows nitrate induced chlorisis, which is very similar to lime induced chlorosis, there may also be an issue with soil pH with these plants.

I have been dealing with this issue in my maples for many years. It occurs with a combination of warm soil, elevated pH and excessive nitrogen in the fertilizer.

Paul

Totally agree.
 
I am not much of a soil scientist and I do not test for PH,but I do have a campfire twice a season with untreated wood and collect the ash and mix it 1 part ash with 9 parts water then let all the ash settle then water the trees with the ash water mixture.It is done once in the late spring and once in late autumn.
I read on Bonsai Focus website that it neutralizes the soil and is needed with organic fertilization as organics run the soil acid.My trees responded just fine.
 
I am not much of a soil scientist and I do not test for PH,but I do have a campfire twice a season with untreated wood and collect the ash and mix it 1 part ash with 9 parts water then let all the ash settle then water the trees with the ash water mixture.It is done once in the late spring and once in late autumn.
I read on Bonsai Focus website that it neutralizes the soil and is needed with organic fertilization as organics run the soil acid.My trees responded just fine.

Wow... That sounds like some "bubble bubble toil and trouble"/ biodynamic farming stuff right there! Lol. Hey, it is funny what works on our trees sometimes and the lengths we will go through to make them happy.

I have a soil tester and PH meter I will do some more poking around in my trees' soil and deff, for the rest of this rowing season cut WAAAYYYY back on the N in my ferts!

This thread made me happy today on a day when I have a LOT to be happy about! Just got my copy of Bill Valavanis' book in today- "classical Bonsai Art" and if you guys like Maples ( which I REALLY do) you MUST GET THIS BOOK! Amazing photography, detailed text on so many different types of JM... Over 100 pages of the book are dedicated just to Japanese Maples! He told me that and I had to get it... SO glad I did!
 
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