Nebari Self Study "Basic" Techniques Theory

[Scaryface]

Ok so I didn't know where to post this so the New to bonsai section seemed appropriate. I have been doing a lot of reading to catch up to you guys and increase my knowledge. So this is what i have learnt, please feel free to debunk, change, comment and add to your delight. So this is what my research has given me so far.

There are three main methods used by artists to produce root growth to develop Nebari.

The How

The Ring method

Air Layered

Bark is stripped off of the tree above ground at the desired height, root growth hormone is applied and the area is wrapped with Sphagnum moss and covered with plastic, the moss should be kept moist to promote growth. Once sufficient root growth has been established one can but away the bottom section and replant.

The Tourniquet method

Air Layered

Wire is tightly wrapped around the trunk, starving the tree of nutrients and forcing it to grow roots above the Tourniquet. "good idea for rock planting?" Root hormone and Sphagnum moss should be applied and covered just above the tourniquet and kept moist. Once sufficient root growth is established, cut away undesired sections and replant.

Ground Layered

Similar to the air layered method, however the tree will be lowered to where the Tourniquet will be below ground level, there is no need for Sphagnum moss as the soil will keep the area moist.

Root pruning

Ground Layered

Vertical roots are removed during re-potting process to promote lateral root growth, ensure that the tree is properly supported as the removal of the vertical roots will weaken the trees stability.

The When

Any alterations done to trees should be done in early spring, when the tree is in its main growing phase and should be only be done to healthy trees.

 

[dirk hoorelbeke]

Layering is done from early spring before budbreak, till when the leaves have hardened. The first will allow maximal time for the roots to grow. The last will leave less time, but since the energy producing factory is at full swing new roots will show up faster and more chance to have a full succes. Tourniquet gives a nice swelling, but had no succes with it to score a nice rootbase. For ground layering, make sure it is in a good substrate where you want the roots. Out of personal experience so dependent of climate and user...

 

[Scaryface]

Layering is done from early spring before budbreak, till when the leaves have hardened. The first will allow maximal time for the roots to grow. The last will leave less time, but since the energy producing factory is at full swing new roots will show up faster and more chance to have a full succes.

Now when you say first and second, are we talking about the specific times one does the layering? The 1st being bud break and the 2nd being just before the leaves harden?

 

[dirk hoorelbeke]

yes, in bonsai you always have different options. One will say you have to do it just before the buds are opening (the time you would repot). Others will say you have to do it when the tree has hardened its leaves. There is no right or wrong but every timing has its benefits. Think about how plants grow, think about your climate, and think what you want to happen. I suppose in South Africa you have a long growing season and hot summers. Can you provide temperatures in your layer that are cool enough for the roots to grow in summer? It might be at your place you can even airlayer in late summer when the hot temperatures are over, leave it on over "winter" and separate before the summer. There are general guidelines everywhere and some are very successful, you have to adjust them for your goals and climate. Listen to what people in your climate do. So i hope someone of your climate zone chimes in.

 

[Scaryface]

@dirk hoorelbeke - Thanks a lot. This is interesting stuff so much to think about.


@YukiShiro @fredman What are your guys thoughts ?

 

[sorce]

Easiest way to a good nebari,
Is collecting or buying a tree with a good nebari.
Your notes are correct, but more for propagating, or RESTARTING nebari on a tree without.
You want bark on your nebari, so while effective, it's a while till a finished tree.

The Tourniquet method

IMO....a tile is the only good tourniquet.
There is a better page on it, but can be seen here. https://bonsaial.wordpress.com/?s=tile&submit=Search
Find Al's ground layering pics there too.

desired height

For restarting a nebari.....it's pretty self explanatory.....but when taking layers for material, layer for a "ready made" tree.
Here's a good post on it....Hot ass Weather too. http://www.bonsainut.com/threads/japanese-maple-air-layer.18273/

Any alterations done to trees should be done in early spring,

This is generally right, but knowledge of species is paramount, some spring work can kill some trees.

For me, last year, spring was so "confoculated" and bled so seamlessly into fall, that the opportunity just came and went.
Timing can vary. Have your materials prepared.

Perlite, Akadama, wet gym shorts, etc...
There are many things that work for layers, in your climate, sphagnum is almost necessary.

Cut it, blend it, chop it, put it in a giant weed grinder.......but NEVER...Neva eva eva, Eva EVA Eva, use sphagnum whole stranded.... upon removal.....it rips the shit out of feeder roots and if left in CAN(not will) rot the core of a trunk. Chop it fine, and it hoses out.

Here's my method.
http://www.bonsainut.com/threads/radialayer™-a-season-saver.17046/

Sorce

 

[Anthony]

Scary Face [ ha Avatar looks like my uncle. ]

Just try to water and grow your trees to health. Will 3 to 5 years if you focus on it daily, also think
and - Don't Forget to Breathe [ or Breed if you prefer ]

If you want to experiment, get about 10 cuttings, place them on a tile and put them somewhere to grow.
Observe.
Ask, Fredman, Herman [ Yuki.... ] for types of trees - Olive, Pomegranate, .........................................
Good Day
Anthony

 

[Scaryface]

@sorce - OHHhhhhhhh awesome foursome.

Easiest way to a good nebari,
Cut it, blend it, chop it, put it in a giant weed grinder.......but NEVER...Neva eva eva, Eva EVA Eva, use sphagnum whole stranded.... upon removal.....it rips the shit out of feeder roots and if left in CAN(not will) rot the core of a trunk. Chop it fine, and it hoses out.

Sorce

This is what im talking about its these little pieces of information that you don't read in the blogs and how toos that can make of break a project.

 

[sorce]

break a project.

Lol...
---__

THEY say don't try to reinvent the wheel.
Then THEY post about all the new techniques we've come to use over the years.

A tree grows how it grows....AGREED.

Everything else has room for better understanding!
Don't stop thinking!

Sorce

 

[Adair M]

For deciduous, use the Ebihara technique. There's a thread about it. Search for it.

 

[Scaryface]

@sorce - Excellent construction work there. that building will be down in no time .

@Anthony - I will be re-potting in spring into a colander to promote some trunk growth, so the idea was to kill two birds with one stone. I always regret wasting opportunities so i don't want to miss this chance on improving my little guy as it has only 2 barely visible roots.

 

[Anthony]

Scaryface,

the colander is to promote fine feeder root growth. As the root hits the air, it will usually stop growing
and new roots will start from near the base of the trunk and grow, this is repeated many times.

Can you find on Youtube - Air pots
There is a very self explanatory video, put out by the Scottish company that makes them.

Unless a tree is genetically prone to fattening in a pot [ Ficus - which is also immune to air as roots go ]
not much is going to happen.
It may be wiser to use the ground growing method.

Look up - Google - Bonsai 4 me. [ maybe - bonsai4me ]
Lots of information on ground growing.

Get at least 300 plants to learn from, that way you don't love a few to death.
Good Day
Anthony

 

[Scaryface]

@Anthony - ok easy tiger. Let's just slow this down a bit. Unfortunately I don't have the space or budget for 300 plants but Im picking up what you are putting down. I am definitely going to be getting some more plants in the near future. Just want to build a little area where I can work and put them. I share a property with the owner so I don't want to go digging up his garden. Will probably build myself a soil box or something later.

Sorce pointed me to a thread about air pots. The general feel and information I learned there was that this method not only provides fibrous root growth as you have said, but also accelerates plant growth? "I am assuming that this all has to do with the actual size of the colender used" and nothing to do with the fact that this is a colender.

That being said I don't want to loose this little guy, because im being too fidgety.

Being a noon is frustrating.....

 

[Scaryface]

For deciduous, use the Ebihara technique. There's a thread about it. Search for it.

Very interesting technique. It makes perfect sense.

 

[Anthony]

Scary Face,

300 plants for us is seed, cuttings and if need be airlayers.

Additionally, look up the Bonsai under 3" and see if you can handle that.

By the way, I have about 25 years of experience, my brother-in-law's experience is around 35 years and
we do teach. So I have a basic idea of how to help a person gain experience and confidence.

Just don't ask me for DESIGN help,

Look up Count Masudaira, and Zeko Nakamura. Look for images of space in use.
Good Day
Anthony

 

[Scaryface]

@Anthony - THERE ARE 3" BONSAI ? I WANT..

Thanks for all the advice.

 

[Adair M]

Scary...

Colanders are used to develop good rootballs with lots of fine feeder roots close to the trunk.

Not for trunk girth. For trunk girth, plant in ground.

Want both?

Start with colander to get good rootball. Maybe 2 to 3 years. Then plant in ground.

Colander technique is really for pines.

Not necessary for junipers or deciduous. For deciduous, use Ebihara technique.

People will read an article about a particular technique, then think it applies to every tree.

It's best to learn a few basics, get your fingernails dirty so to speak, then once you have a foundation of experience you can apply the special techniques. Until you get that solid foundation, you can get so caught up in all the special techniques that only need to be used occasionally that you get all confused.

Keep it simple.

 

[M. Frary]

Colanders work great for decidious trees.
Also for newly collected trees.

 

[Scaryface]

@Adair M - ok ok ok now my heads a spinnin. Agreed I'm going to get some more trees to do some experience so to speak. I'm goin to head to my nearest bonsai nursery have a chat with the help and probably get some more trees in the next few weeks. Once I have my work station, tools and watering equipment up.

I am still interested in fiddling though. One learns through doing. If I screw up ... it happens ... and believe you me I will be irritating you all to make sure it's right.

And besides for me the Ebihara technique seems simple enough. My biggest worry is watering and feeding but I have tons of material to study on that too

 

[Adair M]

@Adair M - ok ok ok now my heads a spinnin. Agreed I'm going to get some more trees to do some experience so to speak. I'm goin to head to my nearest bonsai nursery have a chat with the help and probably get some more trees in the next few weeks. Once I have my work station, tools and watering equipment up.

I am still interested in fiddling though. One learns through doing. If I screw up ... it happens ... and believe you me I will be irritating you all to make sure it's right.

And besides for me the Ebihara technique seems simple enough. My biggest worry is watering and feeding but I have tons of material to study on that too

Ask if the bonsai shop offers classes. What kind of classes. Are the classes focused? That is, does the class teach just one aspect? (For instance, just potting? Or just wiring?). Or is the class a "create a bonsai in an afternoon" gig?

Some classes are BYOT. (Bring Your Own Tree). Some are arranged so that you but the tree and pot at the workshop, or they're included in the price.

I'm not going to say one is better than another, but by knowing what kind of class it is, you can prepare yourself to get the maximum benefit from it.

And an "in person" class can teach you FAR more than anything you get in a book or even watching a video. Some videos are excellent, some are so bad they would be comical... The problem is they demonstrate and advocate bad technique- but they don't know it's bad! They think they know what they're doing! Of course, the same can be true of in-person training.

If possible, look at the trees the teacher has made. If you like what you see, take the class. If not, don't!