My Japanese black pine has light green needles so do I need to change the soil?

My guess would be two years grown in a small container (My last crop were close to this size at 12-14 months). I certainly don't claim to know any better; I was under the impression JBP could be more or less bare rooted till 3, maybe 4 years old (like when doing ROR). My comment was made on the fly, I wondered why the extra caution for a young plant, your explanation regarding health and wire application make sense, thank you.
One of the main reasons is that I did not notice how young the tree appeared to be at first. :eek: The other reasons were associated with the level of questions and actions already taken by the poster. No harm in being cautious.
 
I have a little bit different approach especially that your tree is extremely young... I would just leave the core (shin) intact... this is part of soil directly under the trunk base... tease out the rest as mentioned by @River's Edge... add new soil and use chopstick to gently move it in between the fine roots. I'm a big supporter of organic fertilizers so that's what I would do... not really sure about strong, liquid fertilizer so my advise would be misleading.
Do i just remove some soil from the bottom of the root ball?
 
I think both @River's Edge and @Adamski77 suggestions could be the right approach, depending primarily on the current root mass. If roots aren't full and healthy, do a HBR as Frank suggests. On the other hand, if the pot is pretty full of healthy roots, you probably can aggressively work the whole root mass, closer to what Adamski77 is suggested. However, given the paler color of the needles, if there are any concerns about health, HBR is still probably the safest. You can repot this tree again a year later to do the other half, and so you won't lose much time by doing it in two stages.

@Josephflores960 I am still not 100% clear on what root work has been done. You said you didn't do any root work except to loosen the soil with a chopstick (if you did this, could you explain what exactly you did? Did you lift it out of the pot, loosen, and then place back in the pot?). Also, you said that you put it in perlite, orchid bark, and some coco coir soil, which sounds like you might have just slip potted into this other mix. Could you confirm with more detail exactly what you did from a roots and soil perspective?
It was barely any if not any footwork at all, I didn’t loosen up anything it just stayed a ball pretty much. And yes it was slipped potted since the seller sold it to me bare root instead of in a pot with soil mix. Overall, I practically did nothing to the rootball when it arrived.
 
One of the main reasons is that I did not notice how young the tree appeared to be at first. :eek: The other reasons were associated with the level of questions and actions already taken by the poster. No harm in being cautious.
The seller told me the seedling was 3 years old but I’m not sure if that’s true as it doesn’t really seem like it.
 
I suggest you allow the central core to dry out a bit for a day or two, then proceed with 1/2 HBR. When the tree is out of the pot and you are examining the central core ( old soil compacted root ball ) choose the side that appears to have the fewest roots. Slowly tease out the roots and remove the compacted soil on that half and replace with a bonsai soil mix. Cut only the longest strongest roots and keep as many smaller roots as possible. Also tease out the roots on the surface of the other side lightly to assist them growing into the new substrate around the outside. But do not cut those roots. Preferably inorganic primarily, with even particle size and some organic, fir bark for example to add extra moisture retention for your climate. If you have availability of these components I would use them. Pumice, Lava, Akadama, Fir Bark. After the repot I would refrain from fertilizing for three to four weeks to give the cut roots some recovery time. Use light levels of fertilizer to begin with.
The lighter coloured needles are likely the result of a soil mix that stays too wet for too long. Pines like dry feet.
Next repot you can do the other half of the compacted root ball.
Sorry this might be a dumb question but would I get rid of one of the sides (left or right) or the bottom portion of the root ball when I do a HBR?
 
Sorry this might be a dumb question but would I get rid of one of the sides (left or right) or the bottom portion of the root ball when I do a HBR?


Your situation will not likely have a large enough root mass to require that given the health and circumstances of sale! ie: bare root as you described.
Where did the wet mass of regular soil come from if it arrived bare rooted.
 
Your situation will not likely have a large enough root mass to require that given the health and circumstances of sale! ie: bare root as you described.
Where did the wet mass of regular soil come from if it arrived bare rooted.
It just arrived with the roots and soil no pot unfortunately.
 
Has it been outside in the cold? All of my pines turn a lighter green in the winter once it gets cold. They'll turn back a darker green.
 
Has it been outside in the cold? All of my pines turn a lighter green in the winter once it gets cold. They'll turn back a darker green.
It honestly has not been that cold at all until tommorow I believe it just need repotting with better soil and hen fertilizing later after that
 
Just checking off a box brother. A lot of folks including myself have made the mistake to start doing repots and dosing chemicals to treat fungus or insects. Doing all kinds of stuff when the tree is just reacting to winter or just needs to be given less water. Or more water. More light. Less wind.. etc
 
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