My first hinoki cypress tips are yellowing

YaBoyMyth

Mame
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Location
Rancho Cucamonga, CA
USDA Zone
10a
Is this fungal? Yesterday was very hot and I was unable to mist in the afternoon. Is this lack of water? I just bought this from a fellow bonsai nut member and I do not want to lose it!
 

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I am not sure this is the case but some Hinoki cultivars have yellow shoot tips when young and extending. So it could be new growth, I would recommend to ask the seller if this is the case with this tree.
 
I am not sure this is the case but some Hinoki cultivars have yellow shoot tips when young and extending. So it could be new growth, I would recommend to ask the seller if this is the case with this tree.
Ya I text him but waiting on a response and just wanted some other opinions
 
Is it normal to be misting hinoki cypress? As a rule, it’s a good idea to keep the foliage of trees dry, so they don’t develop fungal issues. There are some exceptions, and I don’t know if hinoki cypress is one of those exceptions.
 
I would also want to know:
  1. When the tree was pruned and the section that is now a jin died/was killed?
  2. How many hours of direct sun vs. shade it's getting?
  3. When did you buy the tree?
  4. How are you caring for it besides the misting?
In my experience, Hinoki can sometimes show browning foliage two or three months after you work them too hard. Not saying that has to be the case here, but it's a possibility.
 
This appears to be a golden variety.
No need to mist it if you didn't just repot it.
The tan leaves are crispy, and should be removed each Spring as Winter die off occurs.
Hold the frawn in one gentle pinch, with a smidge of the outer part of the green/yellow just showing
and pinch and pull outwards the tan dead areas with your opposite hand. This is also how you control the shape of a pad
and remove under growth to thin a pad down. I will hold a frawn where I want to shape it back to
on the exterior of a pad, and pinch/pull all around my thumb tip to shape in a curve.
Full Sun will preserve the yellow characteristics, and lower light will lead to a more overall green
if indeed this is a golden variety.

As little foliage as the tree has left to recover from such a recent drastic reduction
do not try to remove any of the yellow tips that also have brown, or just yellow. Let them die off or recover
on their own. Tree needs energy, and even though full Sun is good energy, this recent reduction
probably changes that. Protect from wind. You're above the hardiness zone for this tree and they prefer
more humidity. Typically zones 5-8 with 9 topping out on one I saw on Monrovia.
These zones were organized prior to todays global warming climate.
So, misting may not hurt, but is not normally necessary.
 
I sold him that tree. Work was done early last year. I instructed him to keep it in full shade, which he didnt do completely. They burn easy and I had it in my shade structure for the last year. It just didnt like getting sun and we’re starting to heat up out here.
 
I sold him that tree. Work was done early last year. I instructed him to keep it in full shade, which he didnt do completely. They burn easy and I had it in my shade structure for the last year. It just didnt like getting sun and we’re starting to heat up out here.
Definitely missed you saying full shade which has been rectified now so hoping that will help solve the problem. Building a shade structure soon as well
 
This appears to be a golden variety.
No need to mist it if you didn't just repot it.
The tan leaves are crispy, and should be removed each Spring as Winter die off occurs.
Hold the frawn in one gentle pinch, with a smidge of the outer part of the green/yellow just showing
and pinch and pull outwards the tan dead areas with your opposite hand. This is also how you control the shape of a pad
and remove under growth to thin a pad down. I will hold a frawn where I want to shape it back to
on the exterior of a pad, and pinch/pull all around my thumb tip to shape in a curve.
Full Sun will preserve the yellow characteristics, and lower light will lead to a more overall green
if indeed this is a golden variety.

As little foliage as the tree has left to recover from such a recent drastic reduction
do not try to remove any of the yellow tips that also have brown, or just yellow. Let them die off or recover
on their own. Tree needs energy, and even though full Sun is good energy, this recent reduction
probably changes that. Protect from wind. You're above the hardiness zone for this tree and they prefer
more humidity. Typically zones 5-8 with 9 topping out on one I saw on Monrovia.
These zones were organized prior to todays global warming climate.
So, misting may not hurt, but is not normally necessary.
Thanks for all the info! I was wondering how to prune these as their foliage is different from any that I’ve had before. Ya right now I have in full shade until it recovers from my mistake of full sun. Should be fine as it was only one day where we actually started to heat up.
 
Thanks for all the info! I was wondering how to prune these as their foliage is different from any that I’ve had before. Ya right now I have in full shade until it recovers from my mistake of full sun. Should be fine as it was only one day where we actually started to heat up.
Here’s a short video by Bjorn showing how to thin one once it is needed
and how I’m trying to explain how to remove any dead tan parts.
Since they do not back bud, we cannot allow them to get thick and bushy
heavy with foliage because that shades the inner foliage causing it to die off from the inside out
healthy as it may be.. Yours will not need thinning for a good while, but if you have areas that
need removing this should help.
Are there any sold at local nurseries in your area??
 
Some good videos above. Just make sure to wait until it is growing strongly before you jump into pruning.
How do you know it's growing strongly? - I'd probably wait until it's putting out extensions at least an inch and a half beyond where they are now. At that point, you can prune those stronger areas (but don't prune other weaker areas where you might want a branch or foliage in the future)
 

Another good one showing foliage thinning
The 1st 8-1/2 minutes are the best part of this video for this application.
What I like most about this video Hartinez is Bjorn mentions the timing.
This is a characteristic of videos on bonsai care out there most folks omit.
Well, at least it's a rare trait. Vance Wood does sometimes, it's just not done enough.
I actually play both of these videos every year before I work on mine, at least once :)
Some good videos above. Just make sure to wait until it is growing strongly before you jump into pruning.
How do you know it's growing strongly? - I'd probably wait until it's putting out extensions at least an inch and a half beyond where they are now. At that point, you can prune those stronger areas (but don't prune other weaker areas where you might want a branch or foliage in the future)
Yes, definitely not this year. Then when it's growing better more sunlight too.
 
The 1st 8-1/2 minutes are the best part of this video for this application.
What I like most about this video Hartinez is Bjorn mentions the timing.
This is a characteristic of videos on bonsai care out there most folks omit.
Well, at least it's a rare trait. Vance Wood does sometimes, it's just not done enough.
I actually play both of these videos every year before I work on mine, at least once :)

Yes, definitely not this year. Then when it's growing better more sunlight too.
Appreciate all the help guys! Joining the local bonsai club next month too so I’ll be able to start working with people who are a little more experienced
 
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