Mugo Pine -- Again! :D

Hopefully Vance will come along and chime in but I think you will want to wait until next year to do anything.
 
You can reduce it down about 50% without damage but----there is something I would like to see you do first before cutting the top. Remove the tree from the nursery container and with your hands only, not rakes or root hooks just your fingers, start pulling the loose dirt, old needles, bugs, and spent fertilizer pellets from off the top of the soil mass until you start to expose the base of the tree. This is the feature that will determine what and where you are going to cut the top. When you get this done post a few pictures showing the base of the tree and we can talk some more.

This is pretty much the size tree I start with.

Mugos are difficult because you have so many options with so many branches. Many of them will be pom-pom in nature but as we open up the tree to light new buds are likely to form on the interior branches. What we are probably going to need to do is grow this tree inward and try to increase branching in close to the trunk----if it has one. That is another issue. Often a trunk line is formed by following a group or successive branches upward to establish a single trunk line where now you may only have a fat base with a lot of branches coming out all over the place. This is because these trees are sheared; they respond to this technique and make a nice bush shape easily. This is why it is important that you understand the base of what you are working with.

Mugos, more than any tree available commercially, wind up being more like sculpture than anything else. You essentially start with a good or workable base and design the branches from there. If you think you are going into a nursery and find a recognizable pre-bonsai you are going to be looking a very long time.
 
Thanks Vance.

I did a "preliminary" investigation and probing at the nursery before choosing this particular tree. It has a short trunk (maybe 4" high only) and about 2.5" diameter base. We will see if it is hiding more trunk and hopefully a wider base tomorrow. :)
 
Good luck with this one. Here in zone 7b GA, elevation 1000ft +, mugo don't do well, either as bonsai or landscape trees. I'm not sure why, as we're at the southern range of eastern white pine, and my Japanese red pine seems to thrive here. One would think long, hot growing seasons with high humidity play a roll here...just guessing.
 
Vance,

Here it is. I had to remove 6 small branches which I believe can never be used anyway. The base as shown on pic #2 is about 3-1/4"

Do you think I can remove/cut the girdling roots now? Or should I wait until summer?

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The number of branches really need to be reduced...drastically!!!

If you want/need other angle shots, just let me know. Thank you!
 
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Good luck with this one. Here in zone 7b GA, elevation 1000ft +, mugo don't do well, either as bonsai or landscape trees.

I have been reading about Mugo last night and you are right...I need to find a way to give it more cold temps than we usually get here.
 
Good luck with this one. Here in zone 7b GA, elevation 1000ft +, mugo don't do well, either as bonsai or landscape trees. I'm not sure why, as we're at the southern range of eastern white pine, and my Japanese red pine seems to thrive here. One would think long, hot growing seasons with high humidity play a roll here...just guessing.

Most failure as a bonsai is due to the owners not taking the tree seriously enough to monitor the water levels. Contrary to JB & JWP Mugos like a lot more water but don't like to have their feet wet. This means that your soil mix has to be fast draining and you have to be willing to water more. Mugos need to breath.

This means that they need the process or cycle of the air being driven out of the soil when watered and the air being drawn in as the water drains out. They need this a lot. Unlike some Pines that can stay dry grown in cement the Mugo cannot. They need to be watered constantly, when it's hot sometimes two to three times a day---BUT; they cannot sit in a wet soil. I suspect the reason they don't do well in the landscape is because they simply dry out and the home owner does not know they should be watered.

Poink::

Have you read my comments carefully? It is my concern that you may start cutting on the tree before we consider your options. If you want to go this alone that's fine too, but if you only have a four inch tall trunk you might want to consider the possibilities of expanding the trunk upward a bit and making certain that the branches you allow to develop will be in proportion to the height of the trunk you will wind up with. With the kind of branching I see in the photographs, unless you have thought this out, you may be disappointed with the results.
 
Have you read my comments carefully? It is my concern that you may start cutting on the tree before we consider your options.

I did. I removed a few branches that cannot be used anyway I go (at least I think) and removal will help show the remaining structure better.

I want to keep this medium size as much as possible.

By the way, unless you disagree, I plan on removing the 2 lowest branches on the left (of pic 1).
 
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Vance,

Here it is. I had to remove 6 small branches which I believe can never be used anyway. The base as shown on pic #2 is about 3-1/4"

Do you think I can remove/cut the girdling roots now? Or should I wait until summer?

Wait till next summer


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The number of branches really need to be reduced...drastically!!!

I agree but here are a couple of thing to think about. When removing large branches make sure you leave at least a one inch stub. I know they are ugly but not as ugly as what can happen if you don't. They can be reduced to jins or cut flush in a couple of years. With this tree and the configuration of the trunk there are some interesting possibilities that you can think about. I'm excited in helping you through this tree but it might have to wait till next year. Let me know what your winters are traditionally like, we might be able to push a few thing up.


If you want/need other angle shots, just let me know. Thank you!
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It will rest until next year then. I replaced it in its pot...just added some soil below & a bit around so it sits higher now.

Our winter is really mild...we probably average about 10 days of temps below freezing total per year and most comes between Dec and Feb.
 
I've done the following technique successfully with Mugo on a healthy plant, in its original pot (OR SLIP potted up one size) without any prior root pruning. Bear in mind that there is always a chance of the tree being weakened or dying. The Technique: From fall until bud-swell in spring, I removed all of the current buds and even pruned back the current years growth on some of the most vigorous shoots (making sure to leave adequate needles ~ 10 pairs). The following spring as sap rose from the roots, hidden buds swelled further down the branches and some backbudding did occur. With a Mugo this far grown out, there still may NOT be enough backbudding in the interior but you can only tell by giving it a try. This technique could be duplicated in other subsequent growing seasons as long as the plant puts out enough vigorous growth after the initial use of the technique. If there is not such a vigorous response after the 1st use of the technique, give it a year or two rest and try it again. Some folks may disagree with this technique on Mugo but like I said, I've used this technique on several of my Mugos acquired as nursery stock and it had decent results.

I should add that this is really best for younger trees, vigorously growing and in initial stages of development. For refined control of growth once a tree's initial structure is set, refer to Vance's other posts for those techniques.
 
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I've done the following technique successfully with Mugo on a healthy plant, in its original pot (OR SLIP potted up one size) without any prior root pruning. Bear in mind that there is always a chance of the tree being weakened or dying. The Technique: From fall until bud-swell in spring, I removed all of the current buds and even pruned back the current years growth on some of the most vigorous shoots (making sure to leave adequate needles ~ 10 pairs). The following spring as sap rose from the roots, hidden buds swelled further down the branches and some backbudding did occur. With a Mugo this far grown out, there still may NOT be enough backbudding in the interior but you can only tell by giving it a try. This technique could be duplicated in other subsequent growing seasons as long as the plant puts out enough vigorous growth after the initial use of the technique. If there is not such a vigorous response after the 1st use of the technique, give it a year or two rest and try it again. Some folks may disagree with this technique on Mugo but like I said, I've used this technique on several of my Mugos acquired as nursery stock and it had decent results.

It will work but the tree has to be healthy.
 
BonsaiRic,

Interesting technique. Thanks for sharing!

Problem is, I don't know how to gauge my Mugo's health yet. :o
 
BonsaiRic,

Interesting technique. Thanks for sharing!

Problem is, I don't know how to gauge my Mugo's health yet. :o

Your tree is healthy, don't worry about it. Color and nature of the needles. Also the color around the branches you have already cut. The wood looks nice and fresh.
 
Good Mugo health: Deep green needle color; Look at length of last summer's growth - few inches not as healthy as ~4-5 inches; Strong buds at tips of branches.

From your pic, as best I can tell :) , it seems to be in good enough health to try the technique.
 
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