Minimum Size to Air Layer

DrTolhur

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I recently tried air layering a tree collected from the yard, and it failed rather quickly (within a week). A bit of research around the forum suggests that air layering oaks might not work the best, so there's a decent change that was the problem. (Being my first attempt is likely also related.) However, it raised the question to me about what is a valid candidate to air layer. I have been unable to find anything online or around here that talks about how big a branch/trunk needs to be for a successful air layer. I have some maples (which sound like they air layer better) that I think are probably a bit on the small side yet, but I'm not sure.

So does anyone have any suggestions on how to know when a tree is large enough to air layer?
 
I have an air layer on a pencil size juniper branch that is filling with roots. Not experience with deciduous though, sorry.
 
Most deciduous trees can be air layered if you can also strike cuttings from that tree.
I’ve seen 1/4 in diameter air layers, but never done any smaller than 1/2 myself successfully.
The key is a healthy tree and good technique. Even the best folks have layers fail for unknown reasons.
There’s a really good readable resource on all things propagation called, “ The Reference Manual of Woody Plant Propagation: From Seed to Tissue Culture” that is the mainstay on this topic. You can pick it up for about 25.00 used.
Cheers
DSD sends
 
I think pencil thick is about the lower limit. There is something about compromising the sap flow of small stems but I have had thinner ones just snap off because the weight of the layer is too much for the thin stem.
Unless you really want to propagate another plant thin layers are wasting time as far as bonsai is concerned. Layering is far better value for thicker stems.
 
For me, layering isn't about the size, certainly isn't about propogation.
What are we talking About again? Lay.. lay...
Oh layering.

A bonsai artists best utilization of air layering is to take advantage of what a tree growing in the ground can do, and what it has already done.

First make the tree, then make the roots.

Look for 3or4 segments of taper and some branching.
At least 2 segments of taper.

If we are utilizing the technique at it's maximum offering, we can look 20 to 30 years beyond size alone.

And NEVER cut em perfectly perpendicular, give em am angle.

Sorce
 
The layered stem must be at least two season's old. It isn't until then that the xylem and phloem are organized into rings and one ring of xylem exists. One more year and a second ring is likely to be necessary because of the compartmentalization associated with girdling damage.
 
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