Literati development method

[The Warm Canuck]

Quick question.

When growing out a Pine Literatir.

What is the most common method employed? Are sacrifice branches used on the lower trunk? If so, is their not a problem with it creating too much lower taper?

Or, should developing a good mass of foliage on the upper most part of the tree be focused?

 

[Gabler]

I didn't think there was any sort of formula for creating literati trees. In fact, I thought the point is that they're not formulaic.

 

[SeanS]

You want little to no taper in the lower/most of the trunk until you get up to the apex area.

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[Shibui]

You want little to no taper in the lower/most of the trunk until you get up to the apex area.

Agree with this. Low sacrifice branches will usually defeat the purpose of literati having little or no taper.

 

[RosePastry]

From what I can tell bunjin and literati are 2 different styles that we group together.

What both have in common to me is the lack of easy guidelines and age to live through the decisions that the artist (you) made.

Bunjin is all about growing the aesthetic of nature in ways that cannot be easily recreated through regular horticulture. It emphasizes healed breaks and sort of a lightning strike at rules as you age.

Literati is more your conversation piece created by instinct. Light taper (1:13 ratio) but not controlled unless it fits the story your trying to tell and if tapered it must immediately have some level of distraction from perfection along the rest of the form.

So follow your instincts and let's see what happens.

 

[Esolin]

Currently trying to figure this out myself. I prefer literati that have some subtle taper, so I'm considering chop this guy this weekend to make a new leader. It's a project with many years of growing ahead of it, but I know I need to design a good trunk line now while I still can.

 

[River's Edge]

Perhaps a good starting point would be to ask a different question. What characteristics are desired in a literati?
slender trunk, unexpected change of direction, sparser foliage to name a few.
What developmental techniques could aid in the pursuit of those characteristics?
Wiring when young and flexible! Extension growth with removal of whorls and lower branches initially!
Unusual choices for development pattern! Drop branch for apex? Sharp bend as opposed to gentle curves?

A long way of a short response. Start early and vary the approach from the norm.
Just a few not so random thoughts!
Here is one I am playing with for a few years now. Mother Nature created the slender trunk with unexpected movement, I am manipulating smaller upper branches to develop a literati. Lots of room for improvement and compaction to reduce foliage while condensing the pads.

 

[Wires_Guy_wires]

Currently trying to figure this out myself. I prefer literati that have some subtle taper, so I'm considering chop this guy this weekend to make a new leader. It's a project with many years of growing ahead of it, but I know I need to design a good trunk line now while I still can.

View attachment 496670

I would chop all lower branches instead, to stop the swelling of the trunk, and mainly focus on the continuation of the trunk line up to the canopy.

 

[The Warm Canuck]

Perhaps a good starting point would be to ask a different question. What characteristics are desired in a literati?
slender trunk, unexpected change of direction, sparser foliage to name a few.
What developmental techniques could aid in the pursuit of those characteristics?
Wiring when young and flexible! Extension growth with removal of whorls and lower branches initially!
Unusual choices for development pattern! Drop branch for apex? Sharp bend as opposed to gentle curves?

A long way of a short response. Start early and vary the approach from the norm.
Just a few not so random thoughts!
Here is one I am playing with for a few years now. Mother Nature created the slender trunk with unexpected movement, I am manipulating smaller upper branches to develop a literati. Lots of room for improvement and compaction to reduce foliage while condensing the pads.

Thats a great tree Frank!

 

[The Warm Canuck]

I'm hoping this tree will be a good candidate for a Literati, it's a Pitch Pine. I like the direction that a trunk chop offers and I'm hoping that as the tree develops the taper between will even out. I'll be continuing the upward growth with the left hand brach as leader, and probably will wire the right hand branch down and jin it, I'll be chasing back the lower branch and eventually removing it (just did the carving work on the old leader and am worried to remove it right now, maybe I'm being to cautious? haha).

Thoughts?

 

[River's Edge]

I'm hoping this tree will be a good candidate for a Literati, it's a Pitch Pine. I like the direction that a trunk chop offers and I'm hoping that as the tree develops the taper between will even out. I'll be continuing the upward growth with the left hand brach as leader, and probably will wire the right hand branch down and jin it, I'll be chasing back the lower branch and eventually removing it (just did the carving work on the old leader and am worried to remove it right now, maybe I'm being to cautious? haha).

Thoughts?

View attachment 496935

From another point of view the right branch already provides an unexpected change of direction if it were to become the trunk and was wired up and in another unusual direction. Removing the right branch would create the " abrupt turn" and would likely heal very quickly or could be shaped for a small shari or jin if desired.

 

[The Warm Canuck]

From another point of view the right branch already provides an unexpected change of direction if it were to become the trunk and was wired up and in another unusual direction. Removing the right branch would create the " abrupt turn" and would likely heal very quickly or could be shaped for a small shari or jin if desired.

What a great idea! That's the trained eye that I need to develop. I'm going with it!

How long would you leave the left hand branch on? without it there isn't much foliage left, for continued development.

 

[Shibui]

the right branch already provides an unexpected change of direction if it were to become the trunk and was wired up and in another unusual direction.

See what sort of up bend can be achieved with wiring but my experience is gentle curves rather than the abrupt bends to match that initial change of direction. Not sure how brittle pitch pine is but sometimes a partial break when bending will give a much more natural bend to match the previous bend. The trick will be controlling the break so it does not snap completely.

 

[River's Edge]

What a great idea! That's the trained eye that I need to develop. I'm going with it!

How long would you leave the left hand branch on? without it there isn't much foliage left, for continued development.

That decision is usually as follow:
as long as it contributes to the overall health and vigour without creating an issue for design or development.
So, based on what I currently see, I would remove any time now. Leave the lowest branch to contribute to overall health and thicken the lowest portion for a bit more taper.

If attempting a more difficult bend do not be afraid to use raffia and wire spline approach under the usual wire form before bending. I would also delay the timing of aggressive bend until late fall or early winter.
Here is a photo of another literati example from a show in Japan. Perhaps it will stir some ideas..

 

[River's Edge]

The trick will be controlling the break so it does not snap completely.

Good point, this can be addressed with the bending technique chosen. One can gain a lot of control by the methods used to wrap and protect against breakage. Also the use of fulcrum shape and pressure chosen within the natural curvature of the existing trunk. Another method to aid in control is the staging of the bend. Simply put, taking ones time to accomplish a better outcome over time rather than in one step.
A bonsai jack can be very advantageous for this purpose. Finger tip control to sense the pressure, allow time for the fibres to adjust and then a little bit more. All the time listening for the minor cracking just prior to " snap "
So more than one trick to controlling the bend instead of a break.

 

[Potawatomi13]

Currently trying to figure this out myself. I prefer literati that have some subtle taper, so I'm considering chop this guy this weekend to make a new leader. It's a project with many years of growing ahead of it, but I know I need to design a good trunk line now while I still can.

View attachment 496670

Bad idea.

I would chop all lower branches instead, to stop the swelling of the trunk, and mainly focus on the continuation of the trunk line up to the canopy.

What he said. What is visible seems decent trunk line already. Also one surface root has added interest.

 

[Potawatomi13]

You want little to no taper in the lower/most of the trunk until you get up to the apex area.

Bunjin Part I—What IS This Weird Thing?

Bunjin get a bad rap or a badass rap. There’s also those who will pass it by on the bench without comment. I figure the no comment is the most interesting reaction. I thought it would be fun to exp…

crataegus.com

Bunjin Part II—Building On Weird

From our previous post in this bunjin series, John Naka suggests bunjin is a poetic form of bonsai. If we agree with this, then we can agree that herd approval won’t be there. Poetry annoys to…

crataegus.com

Bunjin Part IV—Choosing Material

In this part let’s discuss some bunjin nuts and bolts. Ideally, what are we looking for in a bunjin? a thin trunk little to no taper a trunk line that engages age high branches short branches What …

crataegus.com

Humble thanks. Michael rarely disappoints. Why no part 3?

 

[SeanS]

Humble thanks. Michael rarely disappoints. Why no part 3?

Here you go - https://crataegus.com/2022/11/04/bunjin-whats-a-good-trunkline-part-iii/

 

[Esolin]

What is visible seems decent trunk line already. Also one surface root has added interest.

The lower trunk is nice, yes, but I dropped the ball with the upper trunk because I always anticipated doing one chop for some minimal taper, and to mimic the battered, stunted look of some yamadori literati. I've cleared away most of the branches so it's easier to see the trunkline. The upper half has a very wonky S-curve that does not match the movement of the lower trunk.



I feel like one of these branches must eventually become a new leader for the tree to look good.


The question is whether to do it sooner or later. It's an Aleppo Pine, so unless I graft it with JBP, it will need to be a larger format bonsai for the needle length.

 

[Potawatomi13]

Here you go - https://crataegus.com/2022/11/04/bunjin-whats-a-good-trunkline-part-iii/

Humble thanks