Large Trident Cutting

[jimlau]

Here's a large trident. The bottom right branch is a nice one, but there is none on the left side. A new branch will be needed on the left, and it would be dominated by the lower right 1.





I think this is the result I am looking towards.




To that end, here are 4 cuts I am looking to make.






So is it safe to make these 4 big cuts at once, now? Or would all these cuts negatively impact the cambium layer to the top parts?

The tree is very healthy and in a 10" deep pot.

Also, when cutting such big branches, do I leave a stud for some time, or cut them down flush with trunk of the tree?

Thanks.

 

[Ben in Kzoo]

Make you cuts concave
Now, or soon, wouldn’t be a bad time, but you might have a bit less bleeding if you wait a bit

 

[jimlau]

Make you cuts concave
Now, or soon, wouldn’t be a bad time, but you might have a bit less bleeding if you wait a bit

Thanks. I edited my question above. Not sure if you saw it. I asked, would all these cuts negatively impact the cambium layer to the top parts?

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

I would not make those cuts as described. Cuts labeled 2 and 3 will virtually ensure that side of the trunk dies to the ground.

 

[jimlau]

I would not make those cuts as described. Cuts labeled 2 and 3 will virtually ensure that side of the trunk dies to the ground.

Any suggestions? maybe this?

Would leaving stubs with cambium help?

 

[leatherback]

negatively impact the cambium layer

leaving stubs with cambium

What is your concern with the cambium layer?
Whole trunk sections can die off, not just the cambium.

I would take a 2-year approach with the cuts you intent. In the first year, you make the red cuts, or for the lower stub, the blue.


On top, you cut back to a stump. Over the rest of the year, remove any foliage that emerges from the stub. This will greatly reduce die-back and when you next year cut the black line, sapflow will have redirected around the trunk.

Lower down, the "taking a section out" keeps sapflow from the branch to the roots intact, ensuring the lower trunk does not die-back. It also helps with closing the wound and gets the tree to re-direct sapflow around the cutsite. The blue is an easier cut, but less effective (It just keeps the trunk alive but does not do anything for the healing anymore).

Then a year later you cut the rest (black line)

 

[Shibui]

I would not make those cuts as described. Cuts labeled 2 and 3 will virtually ensure that side of the trunk dies to the ground.

I agree that 2 such large cuts so close together are likely to affect flow from branches to root. Definite possibility that roots that are tied to those branches will not have time to reroute sap and therefore die leading to death of large areas of trunk.
I have experienced this a number of times so now make such large reductions slowly over a few years to give the roots and sap flow time to alter.
@leatherback partial cuts is one way. I have also had good results by keeping redundant branches well trimmed through the summer to reduce sap flow out to that branch. It can then be safely removed later in summer or the following spring/summer because the tree will have developed new sap pathways around the branch.
I believe both methods reduce sap flow to the branch slowly which allows time for new paths to be created which bypass that branch thus ensuring that the roots continue to receive food from above and have somewhere to send water and nutrients.

Also looks like 2 and 4 are on the same level. Chopping both will leave a scar around 1/2-2/3 of the circumference of the trunk. Nothing can pass through that scar so trunk/branches above likely to die and possibly roots below. I would also remove either 2 and 4 first (probably work on 4 initially as it is the bigger of them) and only remove the other when the previous scar has started to heal so that sap flow is restored.

 

[jimlau]

Thanks much for the input. Yeah, figured I couldn't get it all done this year. Anyway, the branch with cut 4 is definitely not going to be part of the final design. The branch with cut 2 could possibly be the leader, so I would like to keep that for now.. So can I work on 3 and 4 now, since they are on opposite sides and not at the same height?

 

[jimlau]

What is your concern with the cambium layer?
Whole trunk sections can die off, not just the cambium.

I would take a 2-year approach with the cuts you intent. In the first year, you make the red cuts, or for the lower stub, the blue.
View attachment 483966

On top, you cut back to a stump. Over the rest of the year, remove any foliage that emerges from the stub. This will greatly reduce die-back and when you next year cut the black line, sapflow will have redirected around the trunk.

Lower down, the "taking a section out" keeps sapflow from the branch to the roots intact, ensuring the lower trunk does not die-back. It also helps with closing the wound and gets the tree to re-direct sapflow around the cutsite. The blue is an easier cut, but less effective (It just keeps the trunk alive but does not do anything for the healing anymore).

Then a year later you cut the rest (black line)

How would you cut along the red line on the bottom thick branch? What tools would you use?

Thanks.

 

[leatherback]

How would you cut along the red line on the bottom thick branch? What tools would you use?

Thanks.

a saw and chisel