Kintsugi

[Adair M]

Indeed. That’s exactly what I did. I watched several YouTube videos, and found a method I thought I could actually do.

This used a two part 5 minute Epoxy. I made a puddle of epoxy about the size of a quarter, and used a popsicle stick to stir the two parts together. I then added a bit of fake gold powder, and stirred that in. Then, carefully dabbed one side of the broken pot with as thin a coat of the gold epoxy as I could. Then pressed them together. A bit oozed out, but not too much. It gave the effect I was hoping for.

The fake gold I got from the craft store has a bit of glittery look to it in places. That’s where the material has larger pieces of powder. The smaller the particles, the better it looks.

 

[Mellow Mullet]

Could make/use metal strap screw clamps like on radiator hose for curing or Winter. Some months past asked Ryan Neil on a visit about pot repair and as understood actual gold was used as the cement. As he was busy did not ask for more detail.

No, actual gold has no adhesive properties, at least not to stoneware. Unless you have a pot made of gold and were soldering (welding it together). There are several articles on the net that explain how it was done in old times in Japan. An adhesive was used and either mixed with gold or gold dust was sprinkled on before the glue hardened. Other times it was mixed with the glues and painted over the crack. Epoxy is now used mostly because the adhesive used in old times, made from the Rhus verniciflua (poison sumac) plant, is an extreme irritant and caused rashes like poison ivy on most people.

 

[Adair M]

No, actual gold has no adhesive properties, at least not to stoneware. Unless you have a pot made of gold and were soldering (welding it together). There are several articles on the net that explain how it was done in old times in Japan. An adhesive was used and either mixed with gold or gold dust was sprinkled on before the glue hardened. Other times it was mixed with the glues and painted over the crack. Epoxy is now used mostly because the adhesive used in old times, made from the Rhus verniciflua (poison sumac) plant, is an extreme irritant and caused rashes like poison ivy on most people.

I watched a few videos on how to do the real Kintsugi process, and it’s more involved. Several steps. One is using a laquer to actually glue the pieces together. It takes 24 hours to dry. It heads up when pressed together, too. This laquer has no gold.

Then it’s scraped off. The excess, that is. And then lightly sanded to get it smooth. Then, using a really fine paint brush, they paint the line with another laquer. After 20 minutes or so, it’s set up, and then the gold is applied. There appear to be a couple ways: one is by dipping a soft paintbrush in the gold, and painting it on the laquer bead. The other is by dipping a QTip in the gold, and rolling it onto the laquer. Both ways seem to work, and it’s kinda messy. Gold dust gets on the pot. But once they get everything covered, a couple of light taps, and the excess gold falls off the pot, and onto a piece of paper, and is returned to the gold jar.

Then, the gold is burnished with a cotton cloth. And it’s done! Needs to cure for 24 hours.

Then, they come back a

 

[fredtruck]

I agree that @Adair M's bead is fine because it makes a very thin line.

 

[Adair M]

I agree that @Adair M's bead is fine because it makes a very thin line.

I got lucky!

 

[Gsquared]

Traditional kintsugi is done w gold lacquer. The kits you can buy are epoxy and gold. I've not used a kit but epoxy and gold powder from the art store seems to work pretty well. I have had decent luck w epoxy and gold on tea bowls, but I do feel nervous about using them because of epoxy's aversion to heat. Lacquer on the other hand is remarkably heat resistant. Too bad it is so impossible to use.

I've not done kintsugi repairs on bonsai pots, so I am interested in seeing how they hold up. I have a cascade pot that lost a fight with the wind last fall. I've done foot repairs on pots and used the marine version of putty epoxy and it has held up amazingly well.

I would advise against using 5 minute on things that are going to stay damp. I used to use it to put tie wires on rocks for saikei and it gave out in a year or two. Turned yellow brown and detached from everything. Marine epoxy would work better. It takes longer to set up so clamping or securing pieces will be even more important.

I recently broke, no, demolished a chawan (tea bowl). It's in about 7 large pieces, so you have inspired me to try again.

 

[Potawatomi13]

Epoxy is now used mostly because the adhesive used in old times, made from the Rhus verniciflua (poison sumac) plant, is an extreme irritant and caused rashes like poison ivy on most people.

Several months ago this was suggested on different thread here and was considering. Asking Ryan he said this lacquer is not H2O proof and is not long lasting repair. Also am allergic to Poison Oak. Perhaps modern epoxy/gold powder is what he meant by gold. Another method suggested(if properly remembered)is CAREFULLY drill pot on both sides of crack and use metal strap(s) across crack and rivet(again carefully). DUH, yes can see danger of riveting. Perhaps Masters more careful than most Americans. Personally might use thin head brass screw for patina and thin nut.