JBP Pick a Front

Pick your favorite front from the six options.

  • Front 1

    Votes: 3 17.6%
  • Front 2

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Front 3

    Votes: 1 5.9%
  • Front 4

    Votes: 5 29.4%
  • Front 5

    Votes: 8 47.1%
  • Front 6

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    17
  • Poll closed .
Thanks Adair. Yes i did see the technique paul used. I have used it before and it is very effective, particularily on a longer section of trunk that can be isolated from twisting or changing the other trunk sections. To help put it all in perspective, the tree is 16 inches tall overall. The "Straight Section" is only 4 inches long. The trunk in the straight section is 1 1/2 inches in diameter and the base is three inches in diameter just above the flare. the curvy section ends at the 11 inch height overall. Although it is difficult to see in the picture, the bends induced below has created some movement with a twist to the " straight section". I wired and jacked the " snout section to the side and back creating a twist and bend to the lower straight section".The scion graft was placed at the point where it would appear to bend slightly and to provide an option on that side at that level. I deliberately chose a double scion to create two options. Thus i could keep both, or use the best one dependant on the front chosen.

In the end i may choose to graft the curvy base and chop. That would result in approximately a 12 inch tree overall with a three inch base.
Oh! Only 1 1/2 inches at that straight section?

I think some number 4 copper could bend that! Employ a couple stainless steel screws, some copper wire, a bit of stainless steel wire for guy wiring, and you can bend it!
 
Oh! Only 1 1/2 inches at that straight section?

I think some number 4 copper could bend that! Employ a couple stainless steel screws, some copper wire, a bit of stainless steel wire for guy wiring, and you can bend it!
The gear attached to the tree is distracting and the pictures are difficult to portray details.
I think you are right. The trick will be to isolate the forces to that section so they do not transfer. The heavier branch bender with the two hooks and center screw may also work. Just shape a block for the screw pad to distribute the pressure point in the middle a bit. Attempting that part will wait until the scion graft is stronger and the other gear has been removed, likely next fall. And the placement of that bend is reliant on the chosen front:D
 
That is definately my fall back option should all other ideas fizzle;). Well worded you have clearly identified the major issue.
Fast forward to grafting season and the suggestions i have received were considered over the past three months. I have begun a longer term solution. Identified some positions and angles for grafting lower branches. I deliberately decided to graft a bit higher than some suggested to incorporate part of the upper section as it has some movement and taper to counter the stubby S bottom. I would still like a medium size tree. Placed three double scion grafts to allow for various angles and branch options lower down. Now to wait and see the outcome.
 

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