Japanese Maple Design

[jimlau]

Trying to decide which leader would be best.

Option 1 has the dreaded perpendicular angle to the trunk, so the trunk line would have an unpleasant change in direction.



Option 2 leaves little room on the opposite side (see red arrow) for a branch after the 2 chops. It can however be wired to almost vertical, so a decent trunk line.



Option 3 leaves a long un-tapered section.



Option 4 - thread graft a new leader, keeping the right side branches.

 

[MACH5]

For me I could work with option 1 and 2. My least favorite is option 3. Please do make sure that ultimately the braches stay off the horizontal and have a more random spacing between them as they are currently arranged too neatly.

 

[GGB]

I don't see a need to thread graft anything (yet). If the tree is healthy and you cut it back hard you should get buds popping and growing skyward, especially near the top of the trunk

 

[jimlau]

I don't see a need to thread graft anything (yet). If the tree is healthy and you cut it back hard you should get buds popping and growing skyward, especially near the top of the trunk

How far down should I cut it? Do I do it now or let the tree get full growth in a month? It had a bit of root work, though not too much. It was very healthy last growing season.

 

[jimlau]

For me I could work with option 1 and 2. My least favorite is option 3. Please do make sure that ultimately the braches stay off the horizontal and have a more random spacing between them as they are currently arranged too neatly.

That top angle change doesn't bother you?

 

[MACH5]

That top angle change doesn't bother you?

No it doesn't bother me. It will also soften quite a bit as the tree matures.

 

[Shibui]

Your bend in option 1 is only what's there currently. When you chop back to that node you'll almost certainly get a mass of new shoots growing from that node. Some of them will shoot up and could replace the current horizontal leader.

I can't see detail of the emerging leaves but the shape, bark and branching look more like trident maple than Japanese maple. Could easily be mistaken given not much to go on but how sure are you that this is Acer palmatum?

 

[Dabbler]

Option 1 and try and get branches out and up and random locations - make sure you don't go for a pine design, unless you really want to. But maples that look like a pine never look right to me.

 

[GGB]

It’s just my opinion, but since you asked, there are two major wounds you are making. Personally I’d do one drastic cut this June and do the the other one, at the apex, next (2025) October. Maybe I baby my trees but I worry about interrupting sap flow with multiple large wounds. Also those months are just in my climate and my best guess as to what the weather will be like then. I like to go slow and easy on nice material. I treat seedings much differently, but they respond much differently too.

 

[jimlau]

Your bend in option 1 is only what's there currently. When you chop back to that node you'll almost certainly get a mass of new shoots growing from that node. Some of them will shoot up and could replace the current horizontal leader.

I can't see detail of the emerging leaves but the shape, bark and branching look more like trident maple than Japanese maple. Could easily be mistaken given not much to go on but how sure are you that this is Acer palmatum?

So chop here? And yes, pretty sure a Japanese maple.

 

[Shibui]

Correct spot but you've changed to a horizontal cut. Horizontal is Ok where you don't have a strong branch to direct sap flow but this one already has a reasonably strong branch so I'd go straight for the angle cut.
In my experience, a horizontal chop above 2 branches quickly leads to a swollen top as both branches (and a few new shoots) all take of and grow strong.

I'll defer to your knowledge of the species. Just some aspects that don't quite look right. I'll be interested to see the leaves in a few weeks if you don't mind posting again after you've worked out what to do with it.

 

[jimlau]

Correct spot but you've changed to a horizontal cut. Horizontal is Ok where you don't have a strong branch to direct sap flow but this one already has a reasonably strong branch so I'd go straight for the angle cut.
In my experience, a horizontal chop above 2 branches quickly leads to a swollen top as both branches (and a few new shoots) all take of and grow strong.

I'll defer to your knowledge of the species. Just some aspects that don't quite look right. I'll be interested to see the leaves in a few weeks if you don't mind posting again after you've worked out what to do with it.

So you'd go with Option 1? I know one of the 2 leaders has to be cut, but I don't know if a horizontal cut could maybe stir a bud to pop with a better, vertical angle.

 

[Shibui]

Yes, option 1. That cut will almost certainly stir a cluster of new buds around the base of the branch. Maybe even more than the flat cut. Several of those new shoots will usually grow vertical so you can choose 1 of those as your new leader. Probably another new one will become a branch there and the existing branch will go because it is likely to be a bit too thick near the top.

 

[jimlau]

Correct spot but you've changed to a horizontal cut. Horizontal is Ok where you don't have a strong branch to direct sap flow but this one already has a reasonably strong branch so I'd go straight for the angle cut.
In my experience, a horizontal chop above 2 branches quickly leads to a swollen top as both branches (and a few new shoots) all take of and grow strong.

I'll defer to your knowledge of the species. Just some aspects that don't quite look right. I'll be interested to see the leaves in a few weeks if you don't mind posting again after you've worked out what to do with it.

Here are the leaves. Japanese maple.

 

[Shibui]

Here are the leaves. Japanese maple.

You are correct and My hunch was incorrect.
That's quite spectacular basal flare for a Japanese maple.