Is my bonsai dead?

Pines and conifers require extremely high light, as much sunlight as they can get. Your first tree likely had the same watering issues this one has--the soil is key to successful bonsai. It must DRAIN, FAST for pines and conifers. In dense potting soil as pictured roots stay wet. Wet roots rot. Dead roots cannot transport nutrients and moisture up to foliage. The symptoms of overwatering and underwatering are the same, since in both instances, the roots are not functioning.

Most bonsai problems boil down to root issues. Learning to water properly in the correct soil are two of the biggest obstacles for beginners. Watering can take years to learn. You have to know when the tree needs water, which changes season to season, and even day to day depending on weather conditions outside.

Caring for younger and older trees requires different approaches. For beginners, younger trees tend to be better since they tend to be more vigorous. BTW, black pines really aren't easy first time trees. Deciduous trees, such as elm or maple, tend to be more forgiving. Chinese elm, in particular, is extremely tough and forgiving.

Bonsai come in many sizes, including extra large, over 4" tall. This white pine, which came to America from Japan 50 years ago, is over five feet tall. It depends on what you want and what you can care for. Your pine would be considered roughly a "Shohin" sized tree, under 10 inches tall. That is a small sized category, although the categories used in bonsai have no real parameters.
I will be looking for a Chinese Elm as my next tree. How do I make sure that the soil of the tree is good? I want to make sure that I just buy a bonsai that has a good pot and soil already, so I don't need to transplant it.

The white pine you linked is truly outstanding, I thought bonsai had to stay small to still be considered bonsais.

Thank you very much for all the information you provided it is really useful!
 
I will be looking for a Chinese Elm as my next tree. How do I make sure that the soil of the tree is good? I want to make sure that I just buy a bonsai that has a good pot and soil already, so I don't need to transplant it.

The white pine you linked is truly outstanding, I thought bonsai had to stay small to still be considered bonsais.

Thank you very much for all the information you provided it is really useful!
To get the best understanding of bonsai soil, let go of the idea of "potting soil" Bonsai soil is more like gravel than potting soil for indoor plants. I'm not familiar with getting bonsai soil in Japan, but it should look something like this

Granular, not a lot of small particles. If you plan on having a Chinese Elm, some organic material (pine bark, etc.) is good--but not too much, should be less than 15% of the mix.

Also something to keep in mind if you're interested in smaller bonsai. They require more care than relatively larger bonsai. They have small pots, less soil and less foliage than relatively larger trees. The small soil volume at the roots doesn't protect them as well as relatively larger soil volume. Smaller pot dry out quicker and are more subject to air temperature (in summer and winter). Additionally, since there is less foliage to work with, pruning mistakes, etc. on top growth can ruin a tree for a while, until it recovers. In the worst cases mistake with pruning (particularly with conifer which require green growth on their branches to survive) can be deadly to the tree.

They require more attention than relatively larger bonsai because of all this. Small and tiny bonsai are typically done by long-time experts who know how to balance and attend their needs. As a beginner, smaller bonsai may be frustrating, as the level for tolerance of mistakes is thin.
 
To get the best understanding of bonsai soil, let go of the idea of "potting soil" Bonsai soil is more like gravel than potting soil for indoor plants. I'm not familiar with getting bonsai soil in Japan, but it should look something like this

Granular, not a lot of small particles. If you plan on having a Chinese Elm, some organic material (pine bark, etc.) is good--but not too much, should be less than 15% of the mix.

Also something to keep in mind if you're interested in smaller bonsai. They require more care than relatively larger bonsai. They have small pots, less soil and less foliage than relatively larger trees. The small soil volume at the roots doesn't protect them as well as relatively larger soil volume. Smaller pot dry out quicker and are more subject to air temperature (in summer and winter). Additionally, since there is less foliage to work with, pruning mistakes, etc. on top growth can ruin a tree for a while, until it recovers. In the worst cases mistake with pruning (particularly with conifer which require green growth on their branches to survive) can be deadly to the tree.

They require more attention than relatively larger bonsai because of all this. Small and tiny bonsai are typically done by long-time experts who know how to balance and attend their needs. As a beginner, smaller bonsai may be frustrating, as the level for tolerance of mistakes is thin.
In my case then it would be better to get a larger bonsai. Does a larger bonsai mean that it is an older tree or it was just planted in a bigger bowl and does not necessarily mean that is older?

I would love to keep a bonsai alive for at least a few years, so the easier to take care of it the better. My first two bonsai were present, so I had no idea about what I was doing. I tried researching a little bit to make sure that I am taking care well of them, but there is so much more to it as you guys pointed out.

I probably would like to get a medium-sized Chinese Elm, a tree that I can keep outside. Also, I live on a higher floor so sometimes the wind can be a bit strong, is that a big problem? I tried to keep the pots on the corner so they barely get affected by the wind.
 
In my case then it would be better to get a larger bonsai. Does a larger bonsai mean that it is an older tree or it was just planted in a bigger bowl and does not necessarily mean that is older?

I would love to keep a bonsai alive for at least a few years, so the easier to take care of it the better. My first two bonsai were present, so I had no idea about what I was doing. I tried researching a little bit to make sure that I am taking care well of them, but there is so much more to it as you guys pointed out.

I probably would like to get a medium-sized Chinese Elm, a tree that I can keep outside. Also, I live on a higher floor so sometimes the wind can be a bit strong, is that a big problem? I tried to keep the pots on the corner so they barely get affected by the wind.
Age is a very relative thing for bonsai. Bigger trees aren't necessarily older and younger trees aren't necessarily smaller. Larger can be younger, smaller can be older...Depends on what you start with. The most notable bonsai are not purpose grown from seed. They are made from trees collected from the wild, or from gardens. Typically they're full sized or relatively larger trees that ARE CUT DOWN TO SIZE and have had their branches and apexes regrown.

In practice, 'trunk chopped' trees are pretty common with larger bonsai already in pots. Do a search here on "trunk chop" and read to find out more about the process.

Chinese elms are extremely quick growers (Trident maples are another hardy durable option for beginners as well, BTW). A "medium-sized" elm would be about 12"-15" (30 cm - 38 cm) tall. Wind is fine, but sometimes hard wind can move a tree around, or throw it off the balcony completely (as in a thunderstorm). You can anchor the tree to a table with wire if you're concerned.
 
In case it hasn't been said enough, keep your trees outdoors for: snow storms, rain storms, 2 months of continuous daily rain (hello from Oregon!), ice storms, heat waves, heat domes, dry waves, etc.

The one climate situation that would be appropriate for bringing this or any other temperate tree (temporarily) indoors is a typhoon, and specifically a typhoon. For "merely" very high wind days, I secure my trees to whatever surface they are sitting on and move them closer to wind-blocking structures (house, wall, etc).
 
Take the train out to Omiya Bonsain Village in Saitama and visit Toju-En bonsai. They offer beginner bonsai classes as well as plants. You can also watch them on YouTube at BonsaiQ.
 
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