Individual bonsai benches in backyard: half ways there?

onlyrey

Mame
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Indian Rocks Beach, FL
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I was doing a simple project with wood and added a few 4x4"s to my home depot order. One 3', three 4's and three 5's. I went ahead and stuck them in the ground with fast settling concrete (no turning back). What I have not decided yet, is what would be the best platform for the bonsai that will live there some day (I am working on them). Any ideas for platforms that are easy to place, look good, and don't break the bank?

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If you drill a 15/16" hole down vertically from the top of the posts and then get some 5" long 3/4 iron pipe nipples and screw them into pipe flanges you can attach wood on top or even stone pieces. And the design makes for pretty good spinning tops, even for pretty heavy trees.
 
Eric and Brian, thanks for the ideas. I was going to the 2x4s + 2x2s, but found the 17"-dia "Pine Rounds" in the lumber section of home depot and opted for them. They are not pressure treated and made out of glued pieces, so these pine rounds were not likely to do too well against the elements. So I used a semi transparent stain to improve the chances of the contraption. Right now they are just in place, but when I bold them in, they'll be supported by small 2x2s. Here is a couple of photos for the record. I will report how they fare. Now I just need to develop the bonsai that will live on them, and get some irrigation.
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Well they look nice, and the setting is delicious! I would watch them carefully for deterioration though. You wouldn't want a mishap with a tree on top, and the irrigation will speed that breakdown as well. But a nice clean presentation with a great backdrop!
 
I use 2x4 braces and 2x2 tops. Simple, repeatable. Looks decent. This time I used 6x6 posts instead of 4x4, which have a sturdier appearance.
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6x6 is the way to go, not only looks sturdier, they are sturdier.

I'd skip the cement and just opt to bury them at least four feet. The posts will eventually rot through, or you might want to relocate them. 100 lbs of cement at the end makes replacement or moving them extremely difficult.

There are also two schools on whether cement hastens rot by holding moisture against the post...

I used pressure-treated deck railing and surface boards for the tops on my platforms, with angled supports to the post below. After I finished building them, I scrubbed them down a few times with a hard nylon brush, soap and water. Anything applied to the surface of the platform can wind up in your bonsai pots...
 
I used madrone posts that I saved when I was firewooding because they were twisted and unusual. No cement but well tamped. They are very sturdy and should last many years...(5yrs so far), tho the wooden tops I had used on some have deteriorated and need replaced. Some have no shelf, often I use a couple
screws in the post and wire the tree to the post. Some I used concrete blocks on top 18 x 18 inches x3 that I had around.
Will look up pics guess they are not on this computer.

What you have done should work great,
the tops will likely be your problem (in a couple years, lol)

I really liked Brian VFT set up as I expected I would having seen many of trees on various trees and topics.

Rose
 
Man nice display ideas. The individual posts make the trees look so much more special than lined up on a bench. my trees have to live on the deck because of deer. I hate deer
 
If the bonsai thing doesn't work out, your halfway to the Gong Show with a great dish-spinning act!! (wink)
Sooo...the stands look cool....
Pictures with some trees?

Thanks for the peep into the backyard, guys!!!!
 
6x6 is the way to go, not only looks sturdier, they are sturdier.

I'd skip the cement and just opt to bury them at least four feet. The posts will eventually rot through, or you might want to relocate them. 100 lbs of cement at the end makes replacement or moving them extremely difficult.

There are also two schools on whether cement hastens rot by holding moisture against the post...
I had to use concrete in this case because some of those posts are only 12" deep! Nothing deeper than 24", making them slightly higher than I really wanted. Lots of shallow rock back there, in fact the "yard" behind mine looks like the surface of the moon.

Not sure how long a study you're considering, but the posts I did move over here were encased in concrete for 8 years and looked brand new. Actually better than what was exposed to air.
 
The only problem with BVF's stands is that there is not enough room for the "tackin aback" swoon.....

'Dem some nice trees!!
 
I had to use concrete in this case because some of those posts are only 12" deep! Nothing deeper than 24", making them slightly higher than I really wanted. Lots of shallow rock back there, in fact the "yard" behind mine looks like the surface of the moon.

Not sure how long a study you're considering, but the posts I did move over here were encased in concrete for 8 years and looked brand new. Actually better than what was exposed to air.
I've seen posts set in concrete rot through significantly in five years and posts without concrete last for two decades. I've also seen the reverse. ;-) I've talked about the rot issue with deck guys and contractors, the majority of them said skip the concrete. My contractor friend cursed me for using cement on the support posts of my deck when he had to dig out 100 lbs of old concrete three times to replace the supports.

Of course current code for backyard decks here skips the issue altogether, using concrete piers at ground level with wood bolted above grade to the pier...
 
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Anybody try these post supports that you drive into the ground? Stable enough?
 

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Anybody try these post supports that you drive into the ground? Stable enough?
I wouldn't go near them, but I have trees that weigh more than 80 lbs. Might work with smaller trees.

The problem is one of leverage--the heavier the tree you put on the platform, the more chance there is for it to topple over if you haven't secured the support post correctly. A slight lean that is only a few degrees off at first can become a disaster in a few days as the weight of the tree and/or wind go to work using the post as a lever of sorts to pull itself over.

Stay away from shortcuts, put the extra effort into burying the post deep enough.
 
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