I need a tree doctor! New ficus seems sickly :(

Looks like aphids to me, but I'll leave it to the experts. I'd get those other plants as far away as possible and treat them, and the infected tree with this. Also listen to "gimme the loot" when you are spraying the trees. :)

Courtesy of the Milwaukee Bonsai Society Newsletter.

Pour 1-2 tablespoons of original Dawn dishwashing detergent and 1 tablespoon of vegetable oil in a gallon jug.
Slowly add water to fill the jug.
Pour part of this solution into a spray bottle and add 2 capfuls of rubbing alcohol.

Use immediately.

If there is any solution left in the spray bottle, add 2 more capfuls of alcohol the next time you want to spray your trees.
It seems that the contents of the gallon jug (soap and vegetable oil solution) can be stored for months without it going bad.

Spray on plants covering all leaf and stem surfaces.
You may have to spray from 3 - 4 times with intervals of 3 days.
Almost any kind of pest, including scale, can be eliminated using this solution.

It is not necessary to wash off the spray as no adverse reactions have been found.

Do yourself a favor and get one of these. Best $5 bucks I've spent in awhile. I spray everything down, the tree, the outside of the pot, and bottom, the work bench or table it's on, etc.
View attachment 444939
Ha, gimme the loot indeed!

I don't think they are aphids because they really seem to move like worms. Especially when theyre clinging on the inside of the ziplock, I can see em worming around in a tiny pool of moisture. Then again, I am no expert! This tree has been very close to other plants even before I moved it outside so if the pest spreads easily then I'm in pretty bad shape... but so far I see nothing of concern on other plants.

Also, I read somewhere that dawn soap should not be used on ficus because it will chew up the waxy coating on the leaves. True, or not true?

Thanks!
 
Ha, gimme the loot indeed!

I don't think they are aphids because they really seem to move like worms. Especially when theyre clinging on the inside of the ziplock, I can see em worming around in a tiny pool of moisture. Then again, I am no expert! This tree has been very close to other plants even before I moved it outside so if the pest spreads easily then I'm in pretty bad shape... but so far I see nothing of concern on other plants.

Also, I read somewhere that dawn soap should not be used on ficus because it will chew up the waxy coating on the leaves. True, or not true?

Thanks!
Never heard that before, so IDK if it's true or false. They way I see it, the bugs can harm the tree far more than me treating it for the insects. I could be wrong, I'll have to look into it. "Figgie, Figgie, Figgie can't you see? Sometimes your words just hypnotize me. " Sorry I couldn't resist. :)
 
yea those orange worms arent aphids, not sure what they are but they are larvae of some kind
 
Ha, gimme the loot indeed!

I don't think they are aphids because they really seem to move like worms. Especially when theyre clinging on the inside of the ziplock, I can see em worming around in a tiny pool of moisture. Then again, I am no expert! This tree has been very close to other plants even before I moved it outside so if the pest spreads easily then I'm in pretty bad shape... but so far I see nothing of concern on other plants.

Also, I read somewhere that dawn soap should not be used on ficus because it will chew up the waxy coating on the leaves. True, or not true?

Thanks!
Quick look doesn't sound awful, depending on temps less than 90

Possible Damage​

  1. Soapy water can cause phytotoxicity on ficus leaves, especially when temperatures are high. If left on the leaves, it may dissolve the protective waxy coating. Damage is more likely to occur when temperatures are higher than 90 degrees Fahrenheit or when it is sunny out. When using a homemade soap solution as an insecticide, spray it on one or two leaves and wait one day to see if it causes any damage before treating the whole tree. Commercially available insecticidal soaps are highly refined and less likely to cause a phytotoxic reaction. Dilute the insecticidal soap at a rate of 2 1/2 to 5 tablespoons per gallon of water.
 
For what its worth, each time I have had a problem with a fig (those cases are almost always inherited) I bare root it, and soak the entire plant for a few minutes in about 2-3 tablespoons of DR Bronners soap to a 3 gallon bucket for about 30 seconds. It is a sure fire way to get rid of mealy bugs among others. On some rare occasions I have also completely defoliated the tree. I have dozens of ficus of at least 10-12 types and those some have had problems, I can't ever remember losing one.
Something to be aware of, almost every ficus problem I have seen has started with a soil issue.
Incidentally, a phytotoxic reaction can be caused by almost anything if timing or conditions, such as on a very hot day, are not closely observed and followed.
 
Wow, you guys are awesome! And it sounds like I shouldn't worry too much about killing the tree myself while tackling the pest issue...

I thought I should be worried about stressing the plant by repotting. But it sounds like no?

What is the suggested feeding protocol around all of this? I'm not sure when this tree was fed last. I assume it would be best to feed after a repot, but should I wait on that if the tree is in a weaker state like after defoliating?
 
Wow, you guys are awesome! And it sounds like I shouldn't worry too much about killing the tree myself while tackling the pest issue...

I thought I should be worried about stressing the plant by repotting. But it sounds like no?

What is the suggested feeding protocol around all of this? I'm not sure when this tree was fed last. I assume it would be best to feed after a repot, but should I wait on that if the tree is in a weaker state like after defoliating?

Wait until you start seeing signs of new growth and recovery.
 
It's generally safe to feed a tree after repot, but you don't want to feed a sick tree. It encourages the plant to grow, but when it's sick it needs that energy to heal what it already has.
 
I've got an update for yall!

So I gave the tree fairly thorough treatment, as described before (removed diseased leaves, scrubbed remaining leaves and branches BY HAND, sprayed with the homemade soapy spray).

I just checked on the tree and finally, I am seeing a pretty good number of little shoots starting to emerge! And perhaps more importantly, older leaves don't seem to be dying off at all. At least, I'm not seeing much (if any) curling or yellowing. The leaves all look great from a certain distance. There does seem to be some kind of (hopefully residual) damage showing as tiny brown marks here and there on leaves... but I think/hope those are normal and not anything of concern. I'll keep a close eye on it though and make sure it's all good.

Thanks again for all the help!
Figgie
 
When I bring my trees back inside I will spray very heavily at sundown with neem oil about a week before I bring them in. I spray again as I bring them in and leave the lights off until the foliage has dried. Then I watch closely for any hitchhikers.
 
Okay I'm getting a little worried here, probably unnecessarily but nonetheless...

Let's start with this -- how quickly should new shoots be growing? They're still just barely noticeable. I've had an issue once where a plant would sprout a whole bunch of new shoots but the leaves would never really grow fully, or they would be sickly lookin.

When I first got this tree (few weeks ago), there were only a few new leaves to begin with, and they were not targeted by the pests actually. And none of the shoots on the tree at the time ever opened up into leaves! Could have been the pests, sure, but I've noticed the soil is not readily absorbing water. And, using a soil moisture meter for the first time on this tree just now, I'm getting readings considerably higher than expected considering the amount of water I've been giving the tree, so... could this be the root of the tree's issues? Roots packed in too tight to deliver nutrients up the tree?
 
How long does it take?
In good health, about as long as you've had the thing. In this thing's present condition probably a couple weeks until you see any signs of recovery.

Ficus are notorious for throwing a bit of a fit and dropping a bunch of foliage when their environment is changed. I've never experienced it myself, but I hear the complaints routinely. That doesn't explain the health problems you initially described, but it may be a contributing factor in recovery.

Can you get us some pics of the whole tree, the soil and where you're keeping it?
 
How long does it take?
In good health, about as long as you've had the thing. In this thing's present condition probably a couple weeks until you see any signs of recovery.

Ficus are notorious for throwing a bit of a fit and dropping a bunch of foliage when their environment is changed. I've never experienced it myself, but I hear the complaints routinely. That doesn't explain the health problems you initially described, but it may be a contributing factor in recovery.

Can you get us some pics of the whole tree, the soil and where you're keeping it?
I agree, ficus can be fickle critters. Every time I take cuttings off a buddy’s benjamina I end up picking all leaves up off the floor by the time they root. My advice to you figgiesmalls is to be patient. Nothing happens fast in this hobby except an over worked tree. If it’s showing buds concentrate on keeping it watered appropriately and let it do it’s thing. I have green gem ficus cutting I took back in February that just now put roots out. Patience is the name of this bonsai game.
 
Yes, you guys are right I'm definitely being too paranoid... but this soil has been suspicious for a while. Not sure if pictures can do it justice but will try soon. There's almost a plasticy consistency in the top layer and some discoloration on the wood along the soil line, and it's hard to tell how wet the soil is because the surface roots are quite thick.

Can I just take the tree out of the pot when assessing soil moisture? Or is that kinda giving the tree a rough ride 😅
 
You can definitely slip it out of the pot to inspect the soil and roots.
Without going back and re-reading the prior posts I am wondering why it was not re-potted. It is the right time for ficus.
 
Was just thinking that myself. In the heat of summer is the best time to repot ficus, and get into some proper soil. Slipping out of the pot is just fine to inspect the roots and soil conditions, but I'd wait on cleaning out the old soil or root work until the tree is recovered.
Unless,of course, you discover the soil and roots are the issue, then you'll want to do do it ASAP.
Is it potting soil, mulch, or just root bound in proper bonsai soil?
 
Ohhhhhh boy, ya these roots are not happy yall. There appears to be some mold growing on the underside of the root ball (the yellowish fuzz in one of the pictures attached). The surface is looking somewhat concerning as well. Anyway, check it out....
 

Attachments

  • 20220707_175748.jpg
    20220707_175748.jpg
    289 KB · Views: 18
  • 20220707_175936.jpg
    20220707_175936.jpg
    370.1 KB · Views: 17
  • 20220707_180005.jpg
    20220707_180005.jpg
    307.3 KB · Views: 17
  • 20220707_175758.jpg
    20220707_175758.jpg
    363.5 KB · Views: 17
So apparently I need to repot. Wondering what kind of solution I should bathe the roots in (if that is suggested). And any other observations or suggestions to reduce/mitigate damage done
 
Back
Top Bottom