How would you handle this mess of roots? I just let this BC's roots escape from an oil-pan into a 5gal, now uncertain how to fix them..

SU2

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I knew it was dumb at the time and deserve this but just didn't realize the gravity of it.. So I was getting my first 1-year-established BC ready for the year, I hard-pruned (to several nodes) every branch on it except its giant leader-primary which was untouched, the idea being to push all growth there and continue closing the wound / achieving taper in the apex. I did that last night and planned to re-pot today, I've been watching and re-watching @BillsBayou 's videos for weeks (and John Geanangel's) and seeing far, far fewer roots-relative-to-canopy but I don't want to shock the thing by just cutting-off *everything below that top oil pan* (well, working the roots enough to get that pan out of the root-mass, which would basically necessitate pruning back that far)

Right now the tree is *just* at bud-break, lil green bumps everywhere but none larger than ~1-1.5mm, part of me thinks that since I just removed so much from the top, and since I'm in the bad situation of having this plastic-sheet-in-roots situation from how I planted it last year, that the move is to 'rip the bandaid off' and just go for *full* removal of that oil-pan, saving as many roots as I can in the process...but maybe that's dumb and I should do a multi-year approach? That plastic oil-pan bottom, whose ~10 holes are sporting the escaped-roots that feed the bottom 85% of the container-volume, *has* to come out at some point and the longer I wait the harder a hit it'll be to the tree, no? That'd mean do it now, I just fear seriously setting it back or even killing it (this is my first year with "established" BC's, I mean not long-term established but they grew a helluva lot last year!!)

Thanks a ton for any advice on this one!! For re-potting I was intending to use a slightly larger volume container but much squatter so I can start making sense of the root mass!!
 
My thoughts for the drastic approach aren't strictly necessity-based, I'm also operating under the understanding that the outer ~1/3 of root-mass is to be pruned to encourage ramification and was planning to do some serious root-work, but not so much as I fear may be necessary to get that plastic out! Am thinking to setup a tub so I can do this submerged and just tediously use fine clippers to work-out that plastic I don't know any other way to get it out and it's both *gotta go* and *gonna get worse*, so....!
 
I'd say it's healthy enough to take any root pruning you need to do. Cut all the big, long roots you need to in order to fit into the container you choose. Cut what you need to get rid of the plastic. Cut all the down-growing roots. Prune the bigger roots so the ends are an inch or more from the sides of the pot. THIS is the time to get as aggressive as possible. You don't want to have to do severe big root pruning 2 or 3 years down the road.
 
I'd just saw off the root mass below the plastic barrier. The tree can handle it. I would also work to shorten and eliminate that mess of roots above the barrier. Sort those roots out. Remove unnecessary or redundant roots back to the trunk. You want some order and visual "breathing room" for the roots at the trunk. The way things look now is a horse collar of coarse roots that just around and around...
 
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Ok so after the "first round" of attacking this problematic plastic-sheet in my upper root-mass I used a cut-off disc on my angle-grinder to carve as gentle-but-close as I could, hoping I could "pop" the plastic surrounding the escaped-roots that feed that entire bottom-portion (majority), sadly the roots have 'tourniquetted' themselves / swollen so much fatter than the plastic that there's no hope, have NO idea how to approach this.... am just going to continue cleaning-out the bottom and separating-out the ~10 "feeder roots" (escaped-roots) that are flowing to the bottom ~85% of the container, and work-off as much of the outer plastic as possible, maybe I'll be able to maneuver into the center if I'm lucky...not counting on that though, the roots are dense :/

On a silly note, I just cut a standard double-basin kitchen-sink in half, as I didn't have any containers that were right for this (best option was a mortar tub that was just wayyy over-sized, and a bit short at that)
 
I'm no expert in this but if this is my tree, I will focus first on resolving the wrap around root problem. I would definitely cut them to the right radial length. I will leave enough of the escape roots to keep the tree alive as needed if I had to cut all the top roots to resolve the circling roots. Next year in the repot, when new roots have developed from those trimmed big top roots, then I'll cut those bottom roots all off.
 
You just learned why the “double colander” method is a bad idea!

Just cut ALL the roots off that went down through the bottom of the oil pan. You don’t want downward growing roots!

Then, those circling roots. Cut those bad boys off, too! All you want are radial roots, growing out.
 
SawsAll just above the plastic ring....untangle and cut the wrap around.
 
Gritted my teeth and root-pruned harder than I've ever done (outside of collecting wild, of course!), wasted a lot of time getting the plastic off leaving the roots intact (only broke 1!) but ended up cutting-back even harder than if I'd sawzalled at the oil-pan from the start! Hope it makes it, based on the vigor I've seen in my BC's I expect it'll be fine :D
After removing oil-pan, upon realizing "yeah I can't have thick, lignified, downward roots starting inches below the substrate"!!
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Aaaand after some thorough pruning, I know the roots still circle here but, upon potting-up, I used rocks to forcibly move curved roots to a more radial position, will no doubt need to do more major root-work next repot but think it's good for now!!
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[actually that must've been taken right before finishing as I can see 1 root that was pruned-back further, it was one of the hardest to bend into place!]

I'd say it's healthy enough to take any root pruning you need to do. Cut all the big, long roots you need to in order to fit into the container you choose. Cut what you need to get rid of the plastic. Cut all the down-growing roots. Prune the bigger roots so the ends are an inch or more from the sides of the pot. THIS is the time to get as aggressive as possible. You don't want to have to do severe big root pruning 2 or 3 years down the road.

THIS is exactly my thinking, am very glad I posted this because there's definitely the school of thought of "1 insult at a time", or even just that such a drastic cut-back should be staged over multiple sessions... I don't think "1 insult at a time" logic holds because the other insult was simply pruning all branches except the leader which was left wholly un-touched, and they're so apically-dominant that that big ole top is a perfect area for it to push crazy growth in!! And re multiple sessions/seasons, it was already a nightmare at this point trying to un-tangle those thick, lignified roots that'd grown with and around each other, if I'd just done half the container then the un-done half would be a nightmare the next time (hell there'd likely be roots fusing together at that point)

Can you elaborate a lil on what you meant by "Prune the bigger roots so the ends are an inch or more from the sides of the pot"? I re-potted it in a larger container (barely), but this one is basically a grow-bag type container so circling roots shouldn't be a problem....I hope (and expect) this survives what I just did as the roots will have been effectively 'fixed' at this point, after setting it in the new container I jammed rocks into the substrate to force the (heavily-cut-back) circling roots to radial orientations so I can lose the circled-roots-were-here look!!!

I'd just saw off the root mass below the plastic barrier. The tree can handle it. I would also work to shorten and eliminate that mess of roots above the barrier. Sort those roots out. Remove unnecessary or redundant roots back to the trunk. You want some order and visual "breathing room" for the roots at the trunk. The way things look now is a horse collar of coarse roots that just around and around...

Thank you :) I'd read your reply while working (too dirty to reply then lol) but was perfect timing as I hit a point where I'd (impressively, if I say so myself!) removed all the plastic, and immediately realized how bad the problem of doubled-pots was, I had like 8 big, thick roots feeding the entire bottom and not a single one split from thick & downward into branching/radial-roots/fine roots until well under the height of the bottom of the oil-pan, so there was simply no way to save *any* of them, I feel stupid having wasted my time now but for some reason I thought that by removing the plastic I would've been able to salvage *some* extra roots compared to simply having sawzalled right-along the bottom of that tray (would've saved myself like 2hrs....)

Re removing unnecessary or redundant roots to the trunk, I'm both unsure which would qualify for that right now *and* want to see this bounce-back strong so not planning to remove any thick roots back to the trunk (were there a lot you'd say should be removed? I'll have pics in a minute but I reallllly maimed that thing, removing redundant primary-roots anywhere closer than necessary for their new radial orientations seems riskier than I have to be since, unlike the circling roots, it will be easy enough to fully remove the redundant roots (entirely) at mid-season or next spring! I almost wonder if this is the type of thing I should approach in a 2-3 step way, like aim to do 1/3 or 1/2 of the redundant-radial-removals at each of the next 2 or 3 re-pots to finish-off the problem entirely w/o ever having to shock it too much as I do intend to keep repeating this basic procedure IE grow-out a huge canopy & root-mass through growing-season and then cut it all back (except the leader) for at least 18mo!!!

You just learned why the “double colander” method is a bad idea!

Just cut ALL the roots off that went down through the bottom of the oil pan. You don’t want downward growing roots!

Then, those circling roots. Cut those bad boys off, too! All you want are radial roots, growing out.

Seriously!!! Roots chopped, thankfully there were fine roots in the pan still, I have it in a grow-bag type of container now to grow-out for this season....I planted (2) of this year's BC's in-ground upon getting them, would've done more if I'd had a chance to do more swamping (decided I'd start planting in-ground when I ran out of space & materials for proper boxing), obviously it could be a bad move if I let it get out of control but, seeing this type of root-growth-rate, I expect it'll be mid-summer, not next spring, that I do the initial "get it out of the ground and into a box" process! This speaks to something I've been thinking more & more about as a general-premise of "proper" quick-development of bonsai-stock: each season/growing-session should basically be seen (at least in FL / tropic grow conditions) as a chance to grow-out as large-as-possible foliage-mass *&* root-mass, then prune both at the beginning of every growing season thereafter....this would really drive root ramification (annual or even 2x/year root-prunes) as well as letting the canopy grow unrestricted all growing-season, the 'trick' would just be finding the right sized container so you could count on it filling, but not encircling inside, the container between re-pots! I expect to do a minor pruning of the in-ground BC's roots when I lift them mid-season to put them in containers, and am in the process of setting up at least 1 raised-bed "grow area" where I've got a raised bed that's got "an access panel" along the entire bottom to allow you to reach a pruning-saw underneath and sever all escaped-roots, keeping them in the box - I figure if I do that, and simultaneously cut along the perimeter (well, ~1/2" inside of it) and back-fill that with substrate, it'd effectively be a full outer-root-prune done w/o having to disturb the rest of the root-mass at all! Have the wood & the plans but no pics yet, should be built this week (have some large bougies that just aren't getting the primary-girth I want in their boxes!)
 
Holy s#%¥ buckets- What a mess!
I have no advice but I will remind myself not to do this.
 
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[actually that must've been taken right before finishing as I can see 1 root that was pruned-back further, it was one of the hardest to bend into place!]


You need to go WAY farther back with the pruning. Cut all this off and remove everything I'm pointing at.

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Next time:

Build a grow box that’s wide, but shallower. You want roots to grow out, not down.

You want radial roots. Roots that flair. Get underneath the trunk, remove all roots griwing down, keeping only outward, radial roots.

You could treat this like a maple and screw it to a board! See MarkyScott’s Ebihara Maples thread.
 
I’d remove another 50% of those ugly circling roots... A healthy bald cypress won’t blink at the root reduction
My experience also. Su2 is really reluctant to cut roots but all the experts here are saying there is no problem. I think you could cut all the roots back to within 1" of the older, brown bark and it would not even notice as long as it has plenty of water afterwards while it starts new roots. At some stage you will want to put this tree into a bonsai pot and the roots will need to be shortened to fit and still leave room for feeder roots to develop. Far better to do drastic root reduction now than when the tree has lots of well developed branches to support.
Many species have no problem with such drastic root reduction, others will not survive so best to know which are which before starting.
 
You need to go WAY farther back with the pruning. Cut all this off and remove everything I'm pointing at.

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I agree with this recommendation. Those looping roots need to go. You want roots to radiate out and down, not out and loop. Eventually, you'll want a tall tree in a broad pot. You'll want roots that are visible further out than where those looping roots are.
 
Next time:

Build a grow box that’s wide, but shallower. You want roots to grow out, not down.

You want radial roots. Roots that flair. Get underneath the trunk, remove all roots griwing down, keeping only outward, radial roots.

You could treat this like a maple and screw it to a board! See MarkyScott’s Ebihara Maples thread.
Related. Question. Can thick massive root formations be removed from the bottom of the tree successfully as long as there are plenty of good radial roots above it? It leaves the bottom exposed as a good sized cut off....does a tree quickly seal off that area below?

I can’t see the tree top in the photos but could assume it is the proper bud-swelling time of the year for drastic root removal.
 
Related. Question. Can thick massive root formations be removed from the bottom of the tree successfully as long as there are plenty of good radial roots above it? It leaves the bottom exposed as a good sized cut off....does a tree quickly seal off that area below?
That all depends on the species. Many trees will quickly seal off large cuts under the ground. I have 'flat bottomed' olives - saw through the thickest part of the swollen base and plant the trees as almost a giant cutting - no problem. Routinely make large cuts under trident maples - no problem. I also regularly cut back radial surface roots of trident maples at the same time leaving few or no feeder roots - no problem.
This would not be recommended for pines or juniper.
Healing seems to be quicker below soil level where there is constant moisture.
 
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