How to recognize spring

[dbonsaiw]

Spring arrives March 20th, but the trees don't know that. Instead, they will be responding to the weather, not the calendar. I assume those in warmer zones may have already begun spring work, whereas here in the south shore of NY the snow is still melting and the ground beginning to thaw. I am observing my maples every day to witness any changes in the buds that would give me the green light to start spring work, although assume I am still a few weeks away (extended weather forecast is good, but some more frosts likely here, especially at night).

Given the importance of doing bonsai work at the right time, I thought I'd start a thread on how to recognize when one's maple is ready for spring work. Specifically, what is bud "swelling" and "elongation"? Any pics folks may have on what "swelling" buds and "elongating" buds actually look like on maples would be great. Also, any pics of trees whose buds have passed the point of spring work requiring the bonsai artist to wait for summer to do work. Other than a change in size of the bud, what are the other tell-tale signs?

I'll start this off with what I believe is a dormant Acer Rubrum bud, followed by what it looks like "swelling".

 

[Clorgan]

This link is great - http://bonsai4me.com/Basics/BasicsWhen to Repot your Bonsai page2.html

Think it was @BobbyLane who posted it on another thread

 

[dbonsaiw]

This link is great -

Great link, thanks for sharing.

 

[Moridin]

Here in Cali spring has begun

 

[sorce]

Bud swelling isn't a sign the tree knows there will be no more frosts, it's a sign it knows it can do that safely before the last frost.

Leaf out is a proper sign of no more frost.

The problem is using this as a sign it's time to Repot at all.

Even after leaf out, the ground and overall root area temperatures aren't necessarily high enough to sustain proper root growth after even minimal work below.

Better to wait.

Ryan Neil speaks of all energy and antifreeze being localized.

It makes sense then that tops can begin moving and sending signals down the trunk to the roots as the tree begins to awaken from the top down.

I don't think the time it takes for this to happen can be calculated, but I reckon repotting before the signal reaches the roots is far more dangerous than waiting till anytime after.

The requirement for safe repotting is repotting during periods of root growth.

You learn a lot about the subject watching basketed plants for years.
I've had root growth during the hottest part of summer, even after leaf drop in fall, but never before the top really got moving in spring, which is just about early summer.

Moving Maples in Summer is......

Easier than in winter?
#honkhonk

Sorce

 

[roberthu]

Here in Cali spring has begun

Same here in Orlando.

 

[dbonsaiw]

The problem is using this as a sign it's time to Repot at all.

So it's generally safer to wait until summer?
Does the same apply to trunk chops as well?

 

[badatusernames]

I feel like having a larch is a good way to dial this in a bit. My understanding is that when the buds are juuuuust starting to show green you've got about a week long period to move them, and they should be among the earliest to start. Interested to see if Chinese quince beats it.

 

[badatusernames]

So it's generally safer to wait until summer?
Does the same apply to trunk chops as well?

I would not take that advice and would suggest repotting in spring as the buds move.

I know there are technically three periods of time one can repot, with a period in summer and a period in autumn along with spring, but everything I've been learning really strongly seems to point towards just accepting spring as the repotting season. Some variations to this rule may include azaleas, or chojubai quince where in southern climates they are more susceptible to nematodes during that time. In northern climates, my understanding is that the nematodes one worries about for chojubai are not an issue.

For chopping, my understanding is that after the tree has fully grown out and hardened off - so say, what, May/June or so - would be the best time. My understanding is that this is because it allows the plant to fully extend and begin moving its hormones (simply put). Chopping after it has hardened off I believe has a better result than chopping at other times.

Would be happy for anyone to adjust or correct my understandings here.

 

[MSU JBoots]

Thanks for starting this thread. This is something I’ve been looking into myself as I have a juniper and spruce I plan to repot in the spring. I might post a few shots here when the time comes (provided I accurately determine the right time). I gain most my knowledge from bonsai mirai (Ryan Neil) and he definitely supports spring repots as the buds swell. I know he is against summer repots as that is a time you want the tree to have a good root system for supplying the tree water to cool itself via transpiration.

 

[rockm]

Skip any advice that suggests summer or fall repotting. Yes, both are POSSIBLE IF you know what you're doing. If you have to ask about when it's time to repot--fall or summer repotting are probably problematic for you to handle effectively.

I rarely agree with Source on much, but he points out that just because buds are swelling IS NOT an indication a tree "knows" frost and freeze danger has passed. Far from it. It is a sign the tree hasn't committed to active growth. It is being conservative. Bud break, unlike dormancy, is brought on mostly by soil temperatures. Once soil temps rise above a particular threshold (it's different depending on species), trees remain dormant and not actively growing. Buds swelling show soil temps are NEARING those thresholds.

Optimally you want to catch the tree as is juuuust crosses the threshold of dormancy and active growth--at bud extension. To me, that means when you can see lines of green in the buds as they push out. If you see leaf edges on the bud, you're past the target time... All this depends on soil temps--which is why you don't store dormant bonsai in locations where they get direct sun. Bud break in February is a very very bad thing. The father you can lag root temps into March the better. For me, March is a dangerous time, as we get hit with 80 F days followed a week later by low teens. That can kill trees...

 

[Wulfskaar]

Good info!

For us folks in non-freezing places, we'll be looking at the buds and not the calendar. My Shishigashira is going to be ready very soon, I think. I'm looking for those green lines and am ready to go when it happens.

 

[sorce]

So it's generally safer to wait until summer?
Does the same apply to trunk chops as well?

Maybe not all the way into summer, but definitely not after anxiously awaiting spring all winter.

Depends on what the trunk chop is for.
To make it bud, summer, so it doesn't bud, winter.

Sorce

 

[leatherback]

Leaf out is a proper sign of no more frost.

My trees must be stupid..

how to recognize when one's maple is ready for spring work.

When smoke shows up in a pink thong, is a good indication it is no longer winter.

But joking aside.. The timing is not as important as people make it out to be. I am mostly done repotting. If you want to perfect timing, a bud opening, the first leaf tips visible is optimal time to repot from a fysiology perspective. THe tree has woken up and the foliage is starting to send messages to the roots. Communication has started, yet the leaves are still at a point that evaporation is at a minimum. .

 

[Wulfskaar]

From: http://bonsai4me.com/Basics/BasicsWhen to Repot your Bonsai page2.html

According this this website:

Swelling buds: OK
Extending buds: BEST
Opening buds: TOO LATE

 

[leatherback]

Graham's Guide to Repotting Bonsai

Kaizen Bonsai are specialist suppliers of Bonsai tools, gifts and fertilizers accompanied by a huge archive of videos and information on Bonsai care

www.kaizenbonsai.com

 

[Gustavo Martins]

I believe you to know the cues (buds swelling) but also need to consider where you are. For instance, I’m in a temperate warm oceanic climate. I never ever get freezes and bud swelling to bud opening can be really quick if you’re not paying close attention. So I tend to start reporting in the middle of my winter. I have already repotted everything this year. I did it mostly between late January and 1 week ago.
what I am saying is that you need to pay attention to the trees and also get to know your climate.

 

[Dav4]

My trees must be stupid..


When smoke shows up in a pink thong, is a good indication it is no longer winter.

But joking aside.. The timing is not as important as people make it out to be. I am mostly done repotting. If you want to perfect timing, a bud opening, the first leaf tips visible is optimal time to repot from a fysiology perspective. THe tree has woken up and the foliage is starting to send messages to the roots. Communication has started, yet the leaves are still at a point that evaporation is at a minimum. .

Apparently, I've owned stupid trees for the better part of the last 25 years, too . As far as timing goes, swollen buds with discernible leaf edges would be go time for me... but the after care is more important then anything else. Historically, the ideal time for spring re-pots- I only do planned re-pots in the spring- has also been the sweet spot for being over booked both at work and at home with the family, and I would begin my re-pots, strategically, anywhere from 4-8 weeks ahead of the "ideal" time. Beginning with my maples, I'd methodically move through the line up of deciduous trees, followed by the pines, yews and, finally, junipers. A garage is a great place to store your recently re-potted trees if it's frost free- you can apply bottom heat if you like to get the roots going, but not necessary as a rule. The early ones would eventually break dormancy and, and once leafed out, will require some 2-stepping to avoid frost or freeze damage. I even had a few accidentally freeze solid, deciduous and conifers alike- with no ill effects. I suspect re-potting right at the ideal time might impart a bit more vigor to the initial spring push, but that's hard to quantify and I never could tell if the early re-pot slowed the tree up to any degree.Anyway, sorry for the thread hijacking!

 

[Dav4]

From: http://bonsai4me.com/Basics/BasicsWhen to Repot your Bonsai page2.html

According this this website:

Swelling buds: OK
Extending buds: BEST
Opening buds: TOO LATE

In my opinion, a maple and many other D trees with "opening buds" as shown in this picture is right in the sweet spot for getting a re-pot that would include bare rooting, aggressive root reduction, etc.,.

 

[Wulfskaar]

In my opinion, a maple and many other D trees with "opening buds" as shown in this picture is right in the sweet spot for getting a re-pot that would include bare rooting, aggressive root reduction, etc.,.

This is going to be my first maple repot, so I want to do it at the safest time possible. It's good to understand the window though.