Hino maru

I kept my azaleas in my attached, unheated garage during the winter for 6 or 7 years before I built my coldframe. They sat on a bench in there about 10 feet away from a small south facing window. Watered them about once a week from a bucket of water that I kept in there for that purpose.

Never had any problems doing this.
All of those azaleas are still alive.
 
I kept my azaleas in my attached, unheated garage during the winter for 6 or 7 years before I built my coldframe. They sat on a bench in there about 10 feet away from a small south facing window. Watered them about once a week from a bucket of water that I kept in there for that purpose.

Never had any problems doing this.
All of those azaleas are still alive.
Would you mind explaining a few details? Being in New York I assume you have harsh winters. When did you bring them in and how long until you placed them back outside? I have the drums of water I use for mine. Did you heat them at all with a pad? Or did you just keep an eye on the temperature to make sure they never dropped below 35 degrees? Also do you know which kind of azaleas they are?
 
Would you mind explaining a few details? Being in New York I assume you have harsh winters. When did you bring them in and how long until you placed them back outside? I have the drums of water I use for mine. Did you hear them at all with a pad? Or did you just keep an eye on the temperature to make sure they never dropped below 35 degrees? Also do you know which kind of azaleas they are?

I am on Long Island so winter here isn't that harsh.

They would go in there after Thanksgiving or in December. I let them get frost a few times.

My satsuki I'm a bit more careful of. It does get a mild frost but if it's going to be below freezing early, in the fall before they go to the coldframe, I bring it in for the night.

They stayed in the garage until April typically.

No heating pad. Not necessary and I would be afraid it would cause more problems than than it would solve. The garage usually stayed above 30 where their bench was in the center of the garage. I would sometimes get skim ice on the buckets when it got real cold outside for a few days. My satsuki azalea now goes in my coldframe in a window well but they do get colder than 35.

I have karume azaleas, chinzan and satsuki.
The satsuki is a hinomaru.
 
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Thank you very much for sharing! I really appreciate your input. Would you mind sharing when you decide to bring them in? The temperatures in Nebraska are bouncing a lot right now. So I’ve been taking them in and out a little this week to skip the cold nights and get the day heat. I’ve been unsure of when I should bring them in for the year.
 
Thank you very much for sharing! I really appreciate your input. Would you mind sharing when you decide to bring them in? The temperatures in Nebraska are bouncing a lot right now. So I’ve been taking them in and out a little this week to skip the cold nights and get the day heat. I’ve been unsure of when I should bring them in for the year.

If it isn't time for going in the coldframe yet, ie day time temperatures are above 40, I'll being them into the garage for the night if it will be below freezing for the night and it's only going to do that for a night or two.

I'll put them in the coldframe once we start getting consistently 40 or below or if we get freak freeze predicted and I have to move all the trees in a hurry. The azaleas are among the first to go into the coldframe. The satsuki gets the window well and the others along the foundation so have to go in first
 
@MadSweatz
Keep in mind that my winter is milder than yours. You may need to protect earlier and bring them out later than I do.
Watch your temperatures
 
If it isn't time for going in the coldframe yet, ie day time temperatures are above 40, I'll being them into the garage for the night if it will be below freezing for the night and it's only going to do that for a night or two.

I'll put them in the coldframe once we start getting consistently 40 or below or if we get freak freeze predicted and I have to move all the trees in a hurry. The azaleas are among the first to go into the coldframe. The satsuki gets the window well and the others along the foundation so have to go in first
Thank you very much for explaining that. I really appreciate it. With this advice and deep sea divers advice I’m much more confident on my chances for success. It really means a lot.
 
Now it appears we are going round and round…. The goal is to keep the rootball from freezing…even partially.

In your case it’s all about the actual Hi Lo temperatures in that garage. Our garage varied between 23F and 43F last year. That‘s the piece of data you are missing right now that is driving your uncertainly/caution. Once you get this information you’ll have a handle on what the azaleas are facing. It will take a couple years, yet after year one, things will click into place

My thought is one has to be prepared for all contingencies. It’s too late to order equipment from Amazon once the rootball is frozen through. It’s not a contest, just good horticulture.

Actually have wintered over quite a number of 1st-8 yoa satsuki in the garage on heating mats for 4 years now. These only kick in when the garage temperature gets below 35F. Last year over 270 1st year satsuki whips and seedlings of over 60 different cultivars were wintered over. These are the most cold sensitive year group of all azaleas, These are shown below.

D479430C-855D-41A8-9236-6F04B7FF70B5.jpeg

The last 4 racks are filled with these, now 2nd year, whips. The first rack is 3rd and 4th year whips and ground layers.

The good news is Hino Maru is a sport of Nikko which is a northern variety of satsuki, so one of the more cold hardy cultivars. Still not one that can handle a rootball being frozen/partially frozen repeatedly.

As always, your satsuki, your choice. 😎

cheers
DSD sends
 
Now it appears we are going round and round…. The goal is to keep the rootball from freezing…even partially.

In your case it’s all about the actual Hi Lo temperatures in that garage. Our garage varied between 23F and 43F last year. That‘s the piece of data you are missing right now that is driving your uncertainly/caution. Once you get this information you’ll have a handle on what the azaleas are facing. It will take a couple years, yet after year one, things will click into place

My thought is one has to be prepared for all contingencies. It’s too late to order equipment from Amazon once the rootball is frozen through. It’s not a contest, just good horticulture.

Actually have wintered over quite a number of 1st-8 yoa satsuki in the garage on heating mats for 4 years now. These only kick in when the garage temperature gets below 35F. Last year over 270 1st year satsuki whips and seedlings of over 60 different cultivars were wintered over. These are the most cold sensitive year group of all azaleas, These are shown below.

View attachment 459933

The last 4 racks are filled with these, now 2nd year, whips. The first rack is 3rd and 4th year whips and ground layers.

The good news is Hino Maru is a sport of Nikko which is a northern variety of satsuki, so one of the more cold hardy cultivars. Still not one that can handle a rootball being frozen/partially frozen repeatedly.

As always, your satsuki, your choice. 😎

cheers
DSD sends
No, I believe you. I plan on getting the heating mats you recommend. I have actually used the temp controllers on my kegs. I think it’s better to have a redundant system then a dead hobby. I’m very thankful for all info relating to the Hino maru, that is for certain my goal. I don’t take your advice for granted and I’m thankful you have helped me so much. (Also I always enjoy the photos) you guys for certain have had more success then I have. I’m here to learn as much as I can from you all.

Now having said that, I’ve just completed an agreement on a house. So I’m hoping next year the azaleas will have a more prepared home then just an enclosed garage. But that’s a post for a different day. For this year, I’m going on the plan of keeping them protected from any hard freeze and within an arms length of sunlight as I can. I do worry about the fluctuations of high and low. Nebraska is a finicky system. I think stability is the best approach. It only makes sense to build warming systems into the plan.

Again, thank you all for your advice. It may not make a huge difference to the world, but it makes a world of difference to me.
 
So I have the ink bird and heating mat figured out. I’m going to get the temp ranges set tonight.

Couldn’t help but give the one a few family members to spend it’s time with. Bonsai really is an addiction sometimes lol.

I got the mat that was large enough for some future expansion next year.

Edit: I believe I have the inkbird set correctly to kick the mat on to keep the plants at 35 degrees now.

I also cut down the 50 foot silver maple that was blocking a lot of the sunlight to these windows last Saturday. I have one red maple that’s about 40 feet that’s scheduled to be removed also. So hopefully these will get the majority of the afternoon sunlight that is available.
 

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Wow! The azalea family has grown!

Best of luck this winter.

cheers
DSD sends
It’s so hard not to feel sad for just one struggling alone lol. Had to give it some company. (Hopefully they don’t all struggle together now though).

Thanks for the luck. I’m making it my personal goal in life to keep these darn plants alive. So I plan on doing everything possible for them. I need to be able to justify making their flowers my profile picture. I don’t think it’s right until I can over winter them.

On a side note, if the temps here drop to the area of negative ten or lower. Would I need to supplement heating? Or is that something I won’t find out until later? Is there possibly another heat source I should have on hand just in case?
 
Thanks for the luck. I’m making it my personal goal in life to keep these darn plants alive. .

On a side note, if the temps here drop to the area of negative ten or lower. Would I need to supplement heating? Or is that something I won’t find out until later? Is there possibly another heat source I should have on hand just in case?

That’s a good goal! If you get a high dome for the tray with the little guys in, Likely the mat will work just fine.

For the larger one, I had a similar situation the first year. it’s possible to create a taller frame using a plastic bag and some wire or 1/2” pvc piping etc.

Just a thought.

Cheers
DSD sends
 
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