Leo, what timing would you suggest here in this case.
Then, how about a little more refined instance, one early on in training
would it be pruned with the same timing?
My mind wanders to other conifers where foliage is left on for a couple years post collecting,
but some initial branch selection or other foliage reduction must be done in certain instances
prior to collecting. Even advantageous for moisture retention sake, balancing the foliage with roots.
We hear tsuga does not like having the roots worked. So would it be beneficial to lift all at once,
or to apply an extended lifting process like with some JM? Perhaps 2 or 3 years in a row working the roots down
could actually weaken the tree more than one go of it in late Winter.
<snip> @Leo in N E Illinois did you miss my question on timing? <snip>
LOL, you only asked the question yesterday. contrary to appearances, I do have a life beyond BNut. I simply was busy elsewhere. At some point, I have to "back away from the keyboard, and stop correcting everyone who is wrong on the internet". The phrase in quotes is the punch line to a cartoon I saw years ago, but one I try to keep in mind when trying to keep a balance between various aspects of life. Too much screen time is not healthy. My ass is big enough as is, I need to get out and get some exercise.
But I would be happy to answer your question today.
First, I am not a hemlock expert. Frankly I don't know who would be an expert in cultivation of
Tsuga canadensis. I do not know how well timing patterns for mountain hemlock,
Tsuga mertensiana, would apply to Tsuga canadensis. I would definitely read Michael Hagedorn's blog, and Jonas Dupuich 's blog and browse Mirai's archive to glean what I could about
Tsuga mertensiana, but I am not certain that information is really relevant for
Tsuga canadensis. Now I do have a young 5 tree hemlock forest living in an Anderson flat and a larger hemlock in a 10 gallon nursery pot. Both have been in my possession for more than 5 years, but I have not done much with either of them, they are "on the back burner" projects I keep meaning to get to, but just don't have the time. (
because I spend too much time typing about bonsai on BNut, and not enough time actually DOING bonsai in my own back yard).
IF one was planning on digging up a hemlock in spring, I would do ZERO pruning before hand. The
hemlock will need actively growing apical tips of branches to provide the auxins and other signals to get the root system to regenerate a new root system. So, if you are planning to DIG, or
REPOT with major root work,
NO PRUNING, for at least 6 months prior to the root work. Note, this is what I actually do with spruce, Picea. Seems to serve them well.
The hemlock needs the growing tips of foliage to fuel regeneration of roots. Hemlock do not "bounce back" from root disturbance with the ease that an elm or maple would. Hemlock need intact foliage to push root recovery and growth.
I would normally prune hemlock once in early summer, and once again in late summer, immediately before the autumnal equinox, or within a week or two after the equinox. This second pruning is late enough in the summer that the hemlock will not be likely to push new growth, but early enough that dormant buds will be "activated" so that when spring comes they will be ready to grow. I would do my wiring about the same time as pruning, in the late summer, early autumn. Both pruning & wiring, can be done the same day.
@Javaman4373
Because hemlock to not back bud on wood once it has developed bark. Your options for using this tree is limited. Can you, in your mind's eye, you can see a bonsai, a large bonsai, using pretty much the entire tree as is when dug from the ground? If yes, then you could dig this tree. You would need to be using almost all of the older branches that are there. The size of the tree would have to include significant green on every one of the branches you keep. I am bad at judging size from photographs, but this tree would likely make a 2 man size bonsai. A tree too heavy for one person to lift by themselves. Attempting to create a bonsai smaller than using the whole tree, would require learning to graft branches, and significant development time to get the grafted branches large enough to look natural.
At my age, too old and fat to lug around trees weighing over 75 pounds, I would just consider moving the tree in spring to a different spot in the landscape and put in a rock feature that ice from the roof will not destroy. But when you move it, consider whether it might be small enough to use as bonsai or not. But you will have to use most of what is there, as you can not get hemlock to back bud on old wood.