Growing and Developing a Young JBP

W3rk

Chumono
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Location
MD
USDA Zone
7a
Hey all - preface that I'm still quite new to this, having only bought my first tree last Sept. Most everything is younger nursery stock. I got this young JBP last fall and the only thing I've done til now was to slip pot it before the winter. This spring I re-potted it in a colander for drainage/aeration, doing almost no work on the roots - though I did see a good amount of new root growth that had pushed past the original root ball.

I've read a lot of info (some compiled on this site) about developing JBP and watched a Ryan Neil/Mirai video that I took good notes from. But I think a lot of this might be beyond where I'm at for this tree. My main focus of course is health and growth. And I know that the more mass of the tree (branches/needles) that there is the more that promotes growth and trunk girth. And I should still have an eye toward the shape and style I might want for the tree.

The die-back on those upper branches was there when I got it. Since then it looks good and the new candles are extending nicely. From my reading I know that decandling can promote back budding and shorter internodes - which in turn could lead to more growth later.

What should I be doing to promote the most/best growth moving forward?
(I do also know that I'm going to want to watch out for the top where I could have a whorl from too many branches)

IMG_20180417_110802829_HDR.jpg
 
Hey all - preface that I'm still quite new to this, having only bought my first tree last Sept. Most everything is younger nursery stock. I got this young JBP last fall and the only thing I've done til now was to slip pot it before the winter. This spring I re-potted it in a colander for drainage/aeration, doing almost no work on the roots - though I did see a good amount of new root growth that had pushed past the original root ball.

I've read a lot of info (some compiled on this site) about developing JBP and watched a Ryan Neil/Mirai video that I took good notes from. But I think a lot of this might be beyond where I'm at for this tree. My main focus of course is health and growth. And I know that the more mass of the tree (branches/needles) that there is the more that promotes growth and trunk girth. And I should still have an eye toward the shape and style I might want for the tree.

The die-back on those upper branches was there when I got it. Since then it looks good and the new candles are extending nicely. From my reading I know that decandling can promote back budding and shorter internodes - which in turn could lead to more growth later.

What should I be doing to promote the most/best growth moving forward?
(I do also know that I'm going to want to watch out for the top where I could have a whorl from too many branches)

View attachment 187403
There are excellent articles posted by Brent Walston ( Evergreen ) , Jonas Dupuich ( Bonsai Tonight) , and Eric Schrader ( Check BSSF articles). Not to mention threads on B-Nut.
 
Awesome! Thanks for sharing.I just bought several 2.5 year old JBP from Julian Adams and needed somewhere to start.
Cmeg, I too just bought JBP/JRPs from Julian. He is a great source. I'm learning pine care with this batch. I think mine are 3 year old. I only slip potted them into larger training pots and decandled. Some had needle cast so I'm dealing with that and hoping for the best.

Good luck on your pine, W3rk. Let us know how it goes. I too watched Ryan Neil's videos. I like his style and he definitely knows his stuff...I think right now his recommendation is to just leave it alone until fall fertilizing and de-needling.
 
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Cmeg, I too just bought JBP/JRPs from Julian. He is a great source. I'm learning pine care with this batch. I think mine are 3 year old. I only slip potted them into larger training pots and decandled. Some had needle cast so I'm dealing with that and hoping for the best.

Good luck on your pine, W3rk. Let us know how it goes. I too watched Ryan Neil's videos. I like his style and he definitely knows his stuff...I think right now his recommendation is to just leave it alone until fall fertilizing and de-needling.
Before you apply techniques you have seen in a video or workshop ask yourself if they apply to the stage of development your tree is at and or it's condition. Only working on healthy, vigorous trees is a good approach to practise.
 
This is a young seedling, sun, water, fertilizer & time. Training does not start until the trunk is at least 2 inches in diameter for even the smallest size bonsai. So for now, just let it grow. You can, should, wire trunk for curves, or not, you can let it grow, then chop back to the first branch, let grow out again, then chop back again. It is a decade(s) long process.
 
Before you apply techniques you have seen in a video or workshop ask yourself if they apply to the stage of development your tree is at and or it's condition. Only working on healthy, vigorous trees is a good approach to practise.

Another foremost consideration is location.
 
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