First trident maple. Tips/opinions?

Myrki

Yamadori
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Hello. Much like the new juniper I got, I nabbed this trident maple for a steal compared to the others I saw (sub $100). Anyway, I have never had a maple, of course I’ll watch the videos on YouTube, but any initial thoughts by you all here? I don’t know, styling opinions, pruning, what you would do with this material, etc. I always appreciate it.
Thanks!
 

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Some options:

Let it grow to try and remove the inverse taper. Start developing a leader with movement. Determine the end height / goal.for the tree. Next spring consider removing some branches where multiples are growing at the same point. A repot into a shallower container would be good next spring as well.
 
Some options:

Let it grow to try and remove the inverse taper. Start developing a leader with movement. Determine the end height / goal.for the tree. Next spring consider removing some branches where multiples are growing at the same point. A repot into a shallower container would be good next spring as well.
Thanks a lot. Should I not remove areas with two branches now? Or can/should I do any thinning/pruning this year any more?
Thanks!
 
If mine, Id let it get as strong as possible for spring when Id repot and do a structural prune.
 
If mine, Id let it get as strong as possible for spring when Id repot and do a structural prune.
Would u go with a more “final” pot, or just a different training pot? Also thank u, I can leave it to get strong
 
I can see why it was cheap. Plenty of bonsai issues with that trunk but also some learning opportunities, even if it never makes a great bonsai.

Issue 1 - inverse taper down low: My guess is that this tree had one huge root on one side. The big scar is where it was removed. I doubt that problem can be grown out so I'd be layering to get new roots at the widest part, just above the scar. This should fix 2 problems - inverse taper and any defective nebari below.

Issue 2 - Very straight trunk with almost no taper: When considering layering for new roots consider changing the angle of the trunk by layering at an angle. Slanting the trunk can sometimes disguise the straightness and lack of taper, especially if you can get new sections of trunk above to give trunk bends.

Issue 3 - 2 chops up top with awkward new trunk sections. Hard to see what's actually going on with all the branches and leaves hiding the structure. Definitely need to start out removing all redundant branches. Leaving clusters of branches growing from one place quickly causes trunk to swell in maples (and many other species). Any branches from inside bends can go. Otherwise pick a branch with short internodes over branches with longer internodes. Most branches will be developed by cut and grow so only the first internode or, at most, 2 are important.

The angles you've taken the pictures make it hard to assess the real current shape and to draw any possible ideas. Try to get some shots from closer to trunk level if possible. Maybe even wait until leaf drop so we can really see the structure. A couple of months is just a blink compared to how long it will take to convert this into a worthwhile bonsai. I know we always want to get on with a new project but waiting a few months will almost certainly get a better result for you in the longer run.

There's a long way for this tree to become good bonsai. I would not even consider a final pot which would restrict growth and development. You'll get better development with a good sized grow pot or box. I'd be looking realistically at 5-10 years minimum here.
 
Where in Wisconsin are you? I only ask as I'm wondering if the trident will take your winter if you're in the colder areas. As Shibui said, lots to learn on this tree, so I'd also not think about a small pot, let it grow to give you more options.
 
Thank u everyone. I’m south east Wisconsin. Murai (I think that was my source), says 25 degrees and below goes into unheated garage etc
 
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