Field Maple #2

Woocash

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Acer Campestre
Collected January 2020
12” high
3” trunk
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May 15th
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May 30th
Loads of growth, loads of roots, needs a prune
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Today
Light prune and removal of overly long shoots
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One concern though and I’ve noticed it on a couple of my maples, some white spots on the leaves and a slight build up on a couple of stems. It sort of looks fungal, but I’ve got no real idea about these kind of things. Has anyone got any ideas and treatments? Thanks.
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cbroad

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Awesome tree!!!

Man, I wish I could find those things growing around here:mad: I love field maple so much...

Looks like powdery mildew on the leaves, it's pretty easy to take care of but I'm not sure what's available over there for you. I would go for a systemic if you can find one.
 

AlainK

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A very promissing tree.

Has anyone got any ideas and treatments?

Bordeaux mix, or any (copper-based + sulfur) fungicide.

It isn't very harmful : use Bordeaux mix just after leaf-fall, and sulfur before bud-break (February) abd you're likely to get rid of the problem.
 

Woocash

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Awesome tree!!!

Man, I wish I could find those things growing around here:mad: I love field maple so much...

Looks like powdery mildew on the leaves, it's pretty easy to take care of but I'm not sure what's available over there for you. I would go for a systemic if you can find one.
Thanks very much! Yes I love them too. We’re pretty fortunate in that they’re one of a handful of tree species that reproduce at will, but probably one of only a couple of those which are suitable for bonsai. I’m surprised that they’re not wildly invasive over there and despised by all to be honest!

Thanks for the prognosis. I wondered if it was mildew, but I’ve got no experience of tree diseases at all. Do you know what causes it? I’ve been keeping them on the bottom bench and reasonably tightly packed in, but I’ve moved them up to allow better air circulation around the foliage. Hopefully that’ll help as well.
 

Woocash

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A very promissing tree.



Bordeaux mix, or any (copper-based + sulfur) fungicide.

It isn't very harmful : use Bordeaux mix just after leaf-fall, and sulfur before bud-break (February) abd you're likely to get rid of the problem.
Brilliant, thanks Alain. It’s good to see its organic, though oddly enough, Bordeaux mix doesn’t seem to be readily available here. Found some on eBay thankfully.
 

keri-wms

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It messes up Oak leaves, but F.Maple is far less bothered - to be honest if it appears I just move the tree into more sun/airflow from then on, normally you then don’t see it the next year.

Pretty sure copper based stuff waa recently banned in the UK? I do have the ingredients as a backup, just not mixed!
 

Shibui

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Powdery mildew is a fungal infection that affects leaves. Common where air is still and damp which tallies with cramped bottom bench. Some species are more susceptible but better air movement and sun will usually reduce the incidence.
Bordeaux has gone out of fashion in favour of easier to use modern fungicides. The lime in Bordeaux mix tends to precipitate and makes it more difficult to use.
Burgundy mix uses copper sulphate and washing soda instead of lime and is easier to spray.
Both are very easy to make up if you can get the 2 ingredients.
Liquid copper spray is one of the alternatives that might be available.

I also agree with @keri-wms that powdery mildew does not usually cause too much damage. Remove badly affected leaves and more sun to prevent it on new leaves.
 

ConorDash

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I've the same mildew on Hornbeams this year. Tried my usual Rose 2-1 spray and my normal "cleaning" spray which is some fairy liquid and water, no luck yet.
I think i will try some Lime Sulphur and water, very weak dilution on it, and give it a week or 2.

I am not concerned about it, although I'd prefer it not spread to the new growth emerging now and yet to emerge on those trees, but also gives a chance to try some bits and if 1 solution hits it on the head, ill know for future.
Let me know if you have any luck @Woocash ? Would love to have it resolved.

Also, on the tree, did you not want to reduce the shoots emerging from same spots? Like in your May30th, second pic. Load of shoots from same spot on the top, and wire more?
or waiting for winter?
 

Woocash

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It messes up Oak leaves, but F.Maple is far less bothered - to be honest if it appears I just move the tree into more sun/airflow from then on, normally you then don’t see it the next year.

Pretty sure copper based stuff waa recently banned in the UK? I do have the ingredients as a backup, just not mixed!
Cheers, I wondered if that was the case. I’m not overly keen on using chemicals of any sort unless necessary so after the prune I’ve moved all three affected trees to better locations so hopefully that’ll help. If it doesn’t go away by next year I’ll try the alternative I think.
 

Woocash

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Powdery mildew is a fungal infection that affects leaves. Common where air is still and damp which tallies with cramped bottom bench. Some species are more susceptible but better air movement and sun will usually reduce the incidence.
Bordeaux has gone out of fashion in favour of easier to use modern fungicides. The lime in Bordeaux mix tends to precipitate and makes it more difficult to use.
Burgundy mix uses copper sulphate and washing soda instead of lime and is easier to spray.
Both are very easy to make up if you can get the 2 ingredients.
Liquid copper spray is one of the alternatives that might be available.

I also agree with @keri-wms that powdery mildew does not usually cause too much damage. Remove badly affected leaves and more sun to prevent it on new leaves.
Thanks. I have removed the worst affected leaves as part of the prune. It’s a perfectly happy tree otherwise so I’m not overly fussed about it, but my lack of knowledge in these areas made me wonder if it was anything to be concerned about long term.
 

Woocash

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I've the same mildew on Hornbeams this year. Tried my usual Rose 2-1 spray and my normal "cleaning" spray which is some fairy liquid and water, no luck yet.
I think i will try some Lime Sulphur and water, very weak dilution on it, and give it a week or 2.

I am not concerned about it, although I'd prefer it not spread to the new growth emerging now and yet to emerge on those trees, but also gives a chance to try some bits and if 1 solution hits it on the head, ill know for future.
Let me know if you have any luck @Woocash ? Would love to have it resolved.

Also, on the tree, did you not want to reduce the shoots emerging from same spots? Like in your May30th, second pic. Load of shoots from same spot on the top, and wire more?
or waiting for winter?
I will do mate. As I said above I may well just leave it for this year and see how it plays out, unless it seems to get noticeably worse. Otherwise, it does just seem to rub off individual leaves. Being fungal though I assume it’ll just reappear in due course.

As for pruning, that’s a good point. There were lot’s of multiples emanating from the same points, in double figures in a couple of spots so I have gone round and removed all the shoots where the first node is further than an inch from the trunk and reduced a few more in strategic spots. It still leaves several options at each potential branch point though so my plan is to go in after leaf fall and remove all but one shoot in each position, depending how they grow between now and then, and wire at that point.
 

ConorDash

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I use this to spray on mildew leaves. Very effective and it don't burn the leaves.
View attachment 314476

Interesting, noticeably helps in your experience Fredman?
Which oil?

I might try this after a week or 2, as i am trying the LS solution for now.
Sprayed it on 3 days ago, minding the very new fresh foliage, covering with my hand (although its a weak solution, still dont trust it on very young fresh leaves)
 

fredman

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Interesting, noticeably helps in your experience Fredman?
Which oil?

I might try this after a week or 2, as i am trying the LS solution for now.
Sprayed it on 3 days ago, minding the very new fresh foliage, covering with my hand (although its a weak solution, still dont trust it on very young fresh leaves)
Sorry Conor I should've clarified. Dishwashing liquid.
I prefer not to use the strong chemical ones. I use a plant based biodegradable product and olive oil.
Used it with success on my grapes this year to.
 

ConorDash

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Normal cooking, olive oil?
Also, do you think Neem oil would apply instead?

Just curious.. these are common types of issues on trees, so i want to ensure I build up a catalog of what works on what.
 

fredman

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Normal cooking, olive oil?
Also, do you think Neem oil would apply instead?

Just curious.. these are common types of issues on trees, so i want to ensure I build up a catalog of what works on what.
Any oil will do mate. Not sure what the oil does though. I suppose it physically adheres to the fungi and maybe helps killing it... I haven't even thought of Neem. It also has anti fungal properties so it surely can be used as the oil fracture in the recipe. I'll do that this year...might even work better than normal oil.
The soap is only a wetting agent.
This year i'm also going to lessen the amount of oil as it's way to much for me in this recipe. It coats the leaves in a shiny layer for weeks....might smother the stomata for to long...hindering gas exchange.

As I understand the alkalinity of the Potassium bicarbonate is what kills the fungi. I'm very careful not to let to much run off into the soil...I remember reading that it don't affect the Ph of the soil, but I still prefer to not take the chance of a run off.
My English oak are plagued every summer by mildew. This really helps for it. Important to repeat every two weeks.
 

fredman

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Another product that I want to test this year is Hydrogen Peroxide....3%....spray it directly on the affected leaves. Apparently it melts the fungi into a jelly.
 

BobbyLane

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for mildew you only need rose clear/LS wash.
during the season rose clear will do the trick.
water and fairy liquid isnt for fungal issues, its for insects like aphids and spidermites.
 
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