European olive. Keep it or trim it?
- Thread starter Barbells and bonsai
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JoeR
Masterpiece
Leave it, even if you end up hating it in the future the wound would be easy to heal. I would definitely go ahead and give the whole plant (barring the new shoot) a strong wiring and pruning soon. It's young enough now that you can create great movement, but too much longer and results will not be very good. I'd use two wires spaced evenly apart to prevent cracking and really twist it up. Pruning it would give you more branch options as well, a healthy olive can take quite a beating. Let me know if you need any more guidance.
Barbells and bonsai
Mame
Thank you! Glad I asked, life’s been crazy and although I’ve been maintaining watering I haven’t pruned beyond eliminating knuckles partially out of not being sure if I’d harm it.
I looked around online and saw an examples of major twisted trunks like the first picture.
I think this tree lends itself to more of the style in the 2nd picture but would really appreciate any styling advice you have. Maybe I am underestimating the changes I can make.
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Cadillactaste
Neagari Gal
It definitely can use a lower branch on that trunkline. Keep it. It needs some movement. Make sure you've your chosen front set. Then work toward a goal with wiring.
Best of luck to ya.
Best of luck to ya.
JoeR
Masterpiece
You are definitely underestimating the changes you can make, but hey, that's a huge part of the journey that you'll learn over time. It took me probably 4 or 5 years to get bold enough to make the styling choices necessary to really elevate a tree. But i was 12 when i started, 24 now, so alot of that is just being super young, youll learn faster. Olives are resilient though so it's a great species to learn on.
On a tree this young, really the purpose of pruning would be to remove the terminal buds. Not styling. Terminal buds are at the tip of growing branches. They sort of "soak up" the energy, and like a train, pull all the energy to the top of the tree. Trees in nature want to grow as tall as they can, as fast as they can, because they compete for light. We want the opposite. If we remove the strong terminal buds, it activates the axillary buds that are at the base of leaves all down the tree. Doing this will create more branching options to work with.
When you are too cautious with a tree, you end up not pruning it back far enough to create well placed branches. Keep in mind, the buds closest to the branch tip are the ones that are most likely to activate
As far as styling, it's really just a part of the creative process you learn from trial & error, and copying pictures like you posted. It is young enough you could do something like the first picture. You basically have to learn how to see the future and what the steps you need to take to get there are. Best part IMO. I think I have a picture of a kinzu where you can see this process hang on
I'll trade you a tree virtual for your shoulder routine lol
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JoeR
Masterpiece
Cadillactaste
Neagari Gal
Spend time studying the images on the species. Then save them. Look over each one, and note what it is about the image you like.
I've 3 olives... I can't say if you'll get crazy movement in your tree. Once they are lignified ... they snap. I brought in one I intend to cascade. Many branches are very flexible. One was not as forgiving. I'm not sure of my front until repot. So I only wired the one I feel...will not budge come next year. Subtle movements... might be the direction you need to go. Your flexibility in the branches... will give you an idea of what to look for ...
