Elm that thinks its a Ficus

[sorce]

Please don't carve it...

This thing is naturally beautifull.

Please don't carve it.

Please don't carve it.

Please don't carve it.

Please don't carve it.

Sorce

 

[sorce]

One more "may carve it" post and the BSD's are being sent..
Quick and long range.

Sorce

 

[TomB]

This is looking great, I think getting rid of the aerial roots was the right decision.
To build the ramification I think you need to cut back the branches hard. I get two flushes from my english elm by defoliating completely and selectively pruning in summer (I did this about 2 weeks ago and now have a new crop of buds).

 

[BobbyLane]

Hi, this one doesnt need any carving imho, it looks great as is. you could do a little Uro/hollow in the front where the wound has callused at the edges, that all depends on whether you'd like a hollow feature in your tree and how far the dead or rotted wood goes in will determine how deep, but you have to decide whether or not that would enhance the tree, the bark has lots of character already and looks gnarly. i made a hollow feature on my Elm shohin for two reasons, there were already two dead branch stubs at the front of the tree, both had rotting wood inside 2) the bark on the tree is smooth and lacks character, the hollow feature somewhat disguises this.

However, if was mine, i wouldnt rule out a little crack in that callused over scar on the left, nothing major, just a little crack/uro with some depth in it, would certainly add to the 'haunted look' if done carefully.

 

[Giga]

woh that's the coolest elm I have seen - I like it like it is!

 

[YukiShiro]

2 years on... I've ditched the aerial roots. I originally felt they added interest but really they were just a distraction, plus they were hiding a lot of the trunks character.
I am yet to work out how to achieve more than one real growth flush per season, I tried partial defoliation last year but it only resulted in a few new shoots here and there, most not useable as they were too far out along the branches. Not to worry, I've left all shoots unpruned and wired them out. Once the buds are swelling I can trim a few areas back. Lets see where the next 2 years gets me...

AWESOME Jeremy!

love that gnarly ancient butch trunk on it!

best regards
Herman

 

[M. Frary]

Looks like you could do some carving on this.

 

[Cypress187]

Wow, it looks much better, very cool.

 

[Jeremy]

This is looking great, I think getting rid of the aerial roots was the right decision.
To build the ramification I think you need to cut back the branches hard. I get two flushes from my english elm by defoliating completely and selectively pruning in summer (I did this about 2 weeks ago and now have a new crop of buds).

Do you mean cut hard during dormancy or after the first flush hardens? I've tried cutting back to 2-3 nodes during dormancy which really only resulted in one node taking off, the other buds just set and wait. Ive heard similar reports from Aussie growers with only getting 1 flush per year. I'm thinking plan of attack is to let most branches thicken more this season, and the tops can be kept in check. Ideally all buds on the tree will open then I'll actually have options.

However, if was mine, i wouldnt rule out a little crack in that callused over scar on the left, nothing major, just a little crack/uro with some depth in it, would certainly add to the 'haunted look' if done carefully.

This is what I was thinking. I like the scar, and the thick, wavy callous rolling over adds interest. The scar itself is flat, its lacking depth. Maybe it just needs a good blackening with a blow torch? I'll study it, let the callous roll some more. Surprisingly in my humid climate, the wood hasn't rotted at all, without treatment!

 

[sorce]

I see a lot of D trees with smooth wood in a hole.

Speaking of smooth wood in a hole.....

Sorce

 

[BobbyLane]

Sometimes, even though there isnt visible rot, once you start to drill in there maybe a little rotted wood behind the dead, hardwood. that was the case on my Elm shohin. not always though, guess it depends on how much water has got into to wound previously . it was this rotted wood behind the old scars, that i used to make the hollow, came out so easily.

i use one of these on a dremel

if you watch from around 8:02 Kevin wilson demonstrates how to do a Uro properly. he's using a terrier like bit to take out all the wood at first but you can do it all with the bit i showed you, on a smaller tree. as i said though, i wouldnt go crazy, you only need a little crack on yours, but in the vid he explains how to make it convincing with use of shadow.

 

[sorce]

you only need a little crack

Lol.

Sorce

 

[TomB]

Do you mean cut hard during dormancy or after the first flush hardens?

I do both, depending on the stage the branch is at.

I've tried cutting back to 2-3 nodes during dormancy which really only resulted in one node taking off, the other buds just set and wait. Ive heard similar reports from Aussie growers with only getting 1 flush per year.

I'm surprised by this - if the tree is vigorous you should get growth from at least a couple of the nodes. It will push less if the tree is weak or has been repotted recently.

I'm thinking plan of attack is to let most branches thicken more this season, and the tops can be kept in check. Ideally all buds on the tree will open then I'll actually have options.

Looking at the branches you've wired movement into, I think you're most likely to get twigging at the ends. This branch is an example of how that ends up, with movement but limited taper or ramification:

IMG_3199

(of course, what your approach is depends on what end result you are looking for).

To build a more tapered branch, I'd consider just letting those branches grow wild this year to build vigour, then cutting back hard into them (to 2-3 nodes as you said) and repeating. This is how this branch (still work in progress - I'm not presenting it as an example to be admired!) was developed. Note the strength of the buds - this was defoliated 2 weeks ago.

IMG_3200

As you say you've already done that, I'm puzzled why it hasn't worked for you. I know that @MichaelS on here has a good English elm - I don't know if his 'Australian' climate is the same as yours but if so then he might have some insights to offer.