"Elephant Foot" Maple

Anywho... thought I would share finial image of the first styling seeing that I am finished.
No plans for immediate future, other than just let the tree recover, and to protect it from any cold seeing it has had a lot of work done.

Fingers crossed it pulls through... I think it will be fine, main thing I have to worry about any new finer roots that may want to begin to grow. And I need to figure out how best to remove the dark spots on the trunk, which I believe are cut paste someone lathered quite heavily handed on.

mplstyle2a.jpg
 
Yes, I think the goal is the same either way - something happening down lower. The difference of opinion (and that's all it is) is simply how to get there. Here's an alternate, just for fun.
View attachment 87409

My initial reaction was decidedly not "this doesn't fit the 'broom' form or style" - it was much more "something feels unnatural."
I understand, I did the quick virtual mainly to show where I was headed with my initial first styling... and how what I was doing would form a "broom" style... Now, after this first initial styling, one could most certainly work the tree into a more natural looking, not so uniform style. Would not be a problem, even with where I have gone with the tree.

This tree is obviously going to take years and years to refine and bring to fruition... branches will grow in, be replaced, and some eliminated altogether. With the first styling, what I try to do is just start heading somewhere... I try to make the most cohesive design I can and make it look as much like a finished product from the start. The only things I actually eliminate at this early stage are things that I know I definitely will not use, the great majority of these, are usually areas where they are already creating problems... either reverse taper, bar branching that can't be resolved with wiring, crossing over branches, or one's that are going to be shading out other branches. The rest I leave, and find a place for them... as the tree develops, they either remain, or are eliminated at a further time. Often branches I thought about eliminating, I find later, I am glad I did not, that in fact the one I need to eliminate is the branch beside it. This approach lets the material remain healthy, seeing one is not eliminating everything, as well if one tries to create as much as a finished product from the start as possible, then it not only looks nice, but also just needs filling in and refined. The initial style is already there.
 
Nice way to start. Over the years to come creating taper and natural movement will be key. Creating a more finished image now does not only make it look nice from the start, but the secondary branches will grow automatically in an outward direction because other directions will often be shaded. Will you keep wiring or will you starting cut and grow to produce a more natural looking tree? In this design i guess one branch will take the lead. Will you let that branch gain more power? The small container will slow the development a bit. Not bad in the fist years to get finer growth (top and roots) but in the longer run (5 years) i don't know if its the fastest way. Always nice to think things trough.
 
I believe Dario did that...and got a lot of slack. I actually updated with new photos...and got a lot of slack. Poink88 I think was his name under the forum. Found the link...photos were removed...but I added some at the end of the thread post. Before realizing this would blow up. I thought it ingenious...I'm not sure if Stacy is friends with Dario...But there I believe was a Cypress as Vin suggested that also was done I thought after this.
http://bonsainut.com/index.php?thre...ee-without-potential.10279/page-5#post-160835
I distinctly remember a ficus, and the chop was around the diameter of a golf ball (maybe a little bigger). Can't find it anywhere, here or elsewhere on the web. Oh well.
 
I distinctly remember a ficus, and the chop was around the diameter of a golf ball (maybe a little bigger). Can't find it anywhere, here or elsewhere on the web. Oh well.

@Cadillactaste - you accidentally led me to it in another thread! Neli's blog has a quick writeup of an interesting technique for dealing with a chop, but the images have since been removed. I used the "way back machine" to find an archive of it that still had the photos:
https://web.archive.org/web/2015010...ress.com/2013/11/29/healing-trunk-chop-faster

Thank goodness! That was going to drive this Bnut nuts!
 
@Cadillactaste - you accidentally led me to it in another thread! Neli's blog has a quick writeup of an interesting technique for dealing with a chop, but the images have since been removed. I used the "way back machine" to find an archive of it that still had the photos:
https://web.archive.org/web/2015010...ress.com/2013/11/29/healing-trunk-chop-faster

Thank goodness! That was going to drive this Bnut nuts!


SWEET! Thanks for the direct link for us all to look at! I was fighting a bad day and just wasn't into searching last night. Did a feeble attempt...but gave up for an ice pack for the neck and headed to bed.
 
Anywho... thought I would share finial image of the first styling seeing that I am finished.
No plans for immediate future, other than just let the tree recover, and to protect it from any cold seeing it has had a lot of work done.

Fingers crossed it pulls through... I think it will be fine, main thing I have to worry about any new finer roots that may want to begin to grow. And I need to figure out how best to remove the dark spots on the trunk, which I believe are cut paste someone lathered quite heavily handed on.

View attachment 87436

very, VERY nice, sawgrass!!!

I had fun making a quick virt of a future possibility - hope it doesn't annoy you to have taken such a liberty with your tree. You've got lots of possibilities here! That friable looking area in the crotch, BTW, would make a bitchin' focal point if turned into a deadwood feature . . .

TMVert.jpg
 
very, VERY nice, sawgrass!!!

I had fun making a quick virt of a future possibility - hope it doesn't annoy you to have taken such a liberty with your tree. You've got lots of possibilities here! That friable looking area in the crotch, BTW, would make a bitchin' focal point if turned into a deadwood feature . . .

View attachment 87849

I like the angle of it in your virtual...makes it seem less poker straight.
 
very, VERY nice, sawgrass!!!

I had fun making a quick virt of a future possibility - hope it doesn't annoy you to have taken such a liberty with your tree. You've got lots of possibilities here! That friable looking area in the crotch, BTW, would make a bitchin' focal point if turned into a deadwood feature . . .

View attachment 87849
SAY WHAAAAAT! That is an awesome (I mean bitchin') option!
 
very, VERY nice, sawgrass!!!

I had fun making a quick virt of a future possibility - hope it doesn't annoy you to have taken such a liberty with your tree. You've got lots of possibilities here! That friable looking area in the crotch, BTW, would make a bitchin' focal point if turned into a deadwood feature . . .

View attachment 87849

Thanks for the reply, and the virt! No problem about doing it... I think we should encourage any and all ideas and virts!

I like the angle change and originally thought about perhaps going this route, main reasons why I chose not to were because of the tree's existing roots and also, because I have not styled many trees in such a way as I have with this tree. I think it is always nice to try and push one's talents in as many directions possible!

This tree let's me do this, I get to go into other areas where my strengths are not as strong and work these areas as well. For me this is what life is all about! Being able to take on any challenge one is given.

The area of the crotch would look cool with some deadwood, in fact I was very tempted to bring a dead patch all the way down the front of the trunk to almost the roots, cause this is how I would normally roll... however, I have quite a few trees I have done this too, so the journey would be nothing new... which is why I do Art in the first place, for the journey!

Again, thanks for the ideas and taking the time to post them! Very good ideas and it just go to show how many different ways one can take a piece of material and how none of them are wrong!
 
Would cutting the branches back like in Will's virtual...create a better taper in the long run with the tree? Yes/No have a maple coming next week...so I'm trying to learn a bit. Mine has far fewer main branches. Thinking of cutting one branch back to encourage backbudding more maybe. But it has a starting of secondary branches. Those I plan on keeping an eye on for ramifications of course.
 
Last edited:
Thought I would share a comment made by Adair on FB regarding this tree seeing that it is a very good post on how to work Deciduous trees and would be of use for those doing so...

Don't think Adair would mind... Funny part was that I had already done it, I wanted to wire out the tree to post up images of where I saw it headed before I did the cutting back. Will post up a picture as soon as I am able... and here is his comment...

You should prune each branch you've wired out back to the first up/down set of buds.

Yes, cut off 90 percent of what you've wired. Leave the remaining wire on. Now is the time to do it.

Then, in spring, once the new buds start to grow, rub off the bottom one. Let the top one extend 6 or inches, THEN wire it. Let it grow a couple weeks, then cut it back again to a set of up/down leaves. Remove wire. Let it extend 6 or 8 inches, repeat. You can do this all growing season.

This will build a frame work of TAPERING branches.

Aluminum wire is fine for this.

Deciduous trees are grown into shape. Unlike junipers and pines which can be wired into shape.

Yes, this takes time. Lots of it.

Which is why there are so few really good deciduous trees.
 
Tree after branches being shortened.

mplstyle3A.jpg

No more work till next spring... If the tree responds well, I will plan on doing some grafts
up at the chops, to fill in the spacing with new trunks. Also, I will be grafting at the nebari,
to help improve the base.
 
Tree after branches being shortened.

View attachment 88108

No more work till next spring... If the tree responds well, I will plan on doing some grafts
up at the chops, to fill in the spacing with new trunks. Also, I will be grafting at the nebari,
to help improve the base.
That really does look very nice. This is going to be a nice one for sure!
 
So that's 90%...thought it would be more...or less I should say. Looks much better though.
I don't need to remove anymore of the branching. I know Adair's post said to reduce more... but, there are plenty of buds along the branches I left that will send new growth out. I do not need dense ramification with this tree starting right from the trunk. This is going to be a very large tree, so I do want to allow for the branches to be seen coming off of the trunk... before one sees dense twigging. Also, I plan on next spring grafting more branching in some of the large spacing in between the branching I currently have.
 
I don't need to remove anymore of the branching. I know Adair's post said to reduce more... but, there are plenty of buds along the branches I left that will send new growth out. I do not need dense ramification with this tree starting right from the trunk. This is going to be a very large tree, so I do want to allow for the branches to be seen coming off of the trunk... before one sees dense twigging. Also, I plan on next spring grafting more branching in some of the large spacing in between the branching I currently have.

Hey, your tree...your game plan! I think he was more thinking of tapering to the branch itself. By cutting back to allow it to grow out will give that. Which I think was Will's thoughts by what I seen on his virtual. But still a decent tree. Won't take as many years to develop I would imagine. Doing it your way. Wishing you success...anticipating my own maple to arrive possibly tomorrow or Friday. :cool: Those fall colors have me hooked everyone keeps sharing. Will you get to see that fall foliage like we do up north? I know some do but less further down south. Not quite sure how far south the leaves turn.
 
Hey, your tree...your game plan! I think he was more thinking of tapering to the branch itself. By cutting back to allow it to grow out will give that. Which I think was Will's thoughts by what I seen on his virtual. But still a decent tree. Won't take as many years to develop I would imagine. Doing it your way. Wishing you success...anticipating my own maple to arrive possibly tomorrow or Friday. :cool: Those fall colors have me hooked everyone keeps sharing. Will you get to see that fall foliage like we do up north? I know some do but less further down south. Not quite sure how far south the leaves turn.
Cutting back at this point with this tree will not establish taper. The whole reasoning behind cutting back at this point with the tree, is to force more growth starting in tighter to the base of the trunk. I have removed the regular soil and have replaced it with bonsai soil because it is a very fast draining soil and allows for more air to reach the roots. This soil actually slows the tree's rapid growth down, this is why we put our tree's in it. The reasoning for wanting to slow the tree down, is that it creates very tight spacing between the nodes, where as the regular soil allowed for fast rapid growth, and large spacing between the nodes. Reasoning behind why we want smaller spacing between nodes, is that it allows for much more branching to grow, within a tighter confine.

So, with this tree... The branching that I have wired and that you currently see... they are branches that have grown as a result of fast growth, due to being in regular soil. There are larger spacing between the nodes on the branches. So, if one would like to have a very tight network of branching coming off of these branches right in close to the trunk... then you would want to cut in further than I have cut. The branching, that then protrudes from this area, because it is now in a bonsai soil, will have very tight spacing between the internodes, because the growth of the tree is being forced to slow down due to the soil. One then cuts again tight in, and now the branching will be more within a tighter space, and the branching that protrudes from here, will have even smaller spacing between nodes, due to the fact that not only are you slowing the growth of the tree down due to the soil... but, now also, you are forcing it to slow down more, by cutting, and not allowing for the tree to grow.

This action does not build taper... The branches over time will gradually build up taper as they are allowed to grow out and as more and more finer branches pull nutrients through the main branch, but doing this process really puts the idea of building taper on the back burner, for it takes years, upon years to build this up this way. The cutting of the branches now, at the small size that they are, only allows for the ramification process, to begin sooner, rather than waiting for the taper to be resolved. If one was seeking to build taper, it is much faster to of allowed the branching to run free, for another couple of years... the spacing between nodes that is currently on the branching that I have, will not change in size, a branch grows from the ends outward... the branch would only increase in diameter. So, after a couple of years of letting the branches run free, I could still cut back to the same spot or closer, and now my branch will of been twice the thickness, if not more. One then would allow for the next branches that come off to grow, and run free, then repeat the process.

If one examines the diameter of my trunk... it is going to take years and years of growing to get my branching that is protruding off of the trunk to resemble anything close to the appropriate scale of what would naturally be a branch that forms the continuation of the trunk. It would be faster and probably a quarter of the time if I allowed for the branching to grow out and then chop back... but, then I would still have to spend years at a later time after establishing the taper, working the ramification... The other process that I am doing and that Adair mentioned, allows for the years upon years of development into the ramification to begin now, with the understanding that by the time this is all there, so will be the taper.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top Bottom