Dying Fukien Tea Tree Bonsai

Move it to shade but that's it. It must stay outdoors. You removed 50% of the root but you left all the foliage (or at least that's what I gather from the thread). That threw the tree out of balance, so it has to regrow roots to re-balance itself. No surprise foliage died, not enough root to support it. So you have to nurse it back to health, but nursing is mostly leaving it alone. The leaves that the tree can't support will fall off on their own. Once new root growth begins, that will be followed by new foliar growth. Outdoors in shade, don't water until the top of the soil is dry, that's it.

In your experience, do rooting hormones do any good? Or will it recover all on his own? Sorry I ask so many questions, I’m really worried. :(
 
In your experience, do rooting hormones do any good? Or will it recover all on his own? Sorry I ask so many questions, I’m really worried. :(
Don't bother the roots now to put rooting hormone down in there. Leave it be. But I put mine in bonsai soil with only about 15% organic. So it's very fast draining. So I give it A LOT of water each day. The idea of organic soil is more difficult because it's harder to tell if the middle of the pot is most or dry or getting root rot or whatever. I went to bonsai soil pretty quick. But anyways, with this tree, fertilizer and water. Just don't over water.
 
I would pull off all of the yellow leaves and allow the tree to recover in dappled sunlight. Fukien Tea do not like to be moved drastically (ie. full shade to full sun) and will drop leaves to prove it. The tree is fine, just needs to acclimate to the outdoors. I have some of these trees and they are among my favorites...
 
I would pull off all of the yellow leaves and allow the tree to recover in dappled sunlight. Fukien Tea do not like to be moved drastically (ie. full shade to full sun) and will drop leaves to prove it. The tree is fine, just needs to acclimate to the outdoors. I have some of these trees and they are among my favorites...

I did exactly that last night before I read the forum. Ended puting him in a humidity tray since he used to live in a greenhouse and the humidity there is very high compared to my patio deck.
It is now in a spot where he gets morning light and the rest of the day is just indirect light or shade.

Its almost the same spot it was in before but I moved it where the pilar covers it from full daylight
BC58DFBC-F876-47FD-876E-E3204DB874A0.jpeg
 
In your experience, do rooting hormones do any good? Or will it recover all on his own? Sorry I ask so many questions, I’m really worried. :(
Don't mess with the tree anymore once it's in the shade. Too much love kills. Get some more trees to divert your attention from this one.

There are two schools of thought on rooting hormone. It works or doesn't. My take is why risk losing a tree for a few pennies?
 
I did exactly that last night before I read the forum. Ended puting him in a humidity tray since he used to live in a greenhouse and the humidity there is very high compared to my patio deck.
It is now in a spot where he gets morning light and the rest of the day is just indirect light or shade.

Its almost the same spot it was in before but I moved it where the pilar covers it from full daylight
View attachment 243706

The humidity isn't going to hurt, but if the water level in the tray is touching the bottom of the pot, the soil will wick the water up and stay constantly wet, which is not good.

All of mine are outside in part sun during the morning and in full sun from noon onward and they always do great outside.

For added humidity, I wet the benches and the side of the house every evening when I get home from work. They are also in free draining soil which is currently Hoffman's bonsai mix, but switching to Akadama, pumice, and black lava on the next repot.

Every late Fall when I put them inside, they start dropping leaves and this continues until I put them back out in the Spring, then they start growing new leaves and develop full canopies.

Your tree will recover, it will take a little while though. Just check the soil BEFORE watering as they like the soil to be damp, but not wet. Think of 2 wash cloths, both that have been soaked with water (wet), but one of them was thoroughly wrung out (damp). This is where you want the moisture level of the soil to be.

Here is a pic of the two I have...

Fukien Tea (broom-style).JPG
4. September 2018.jpg
 
In your experience, do rooting hormones do any good? Or will it recover all on his own? Sorry I ask so many questions, I’m really worried. :(
Zach's most important piece of advice is STOP MESSING WITH IT. All your attention is part of the problem. Rooting hormone will not help. It can recover, but it won't if you keep changing things up on it.

Also GET RID OF THAT HUMIDITY TRAY. It's completely useless, unnecessary and potentially a problem--as has been pointed out, the bottom of the pot risks coming in contact with the water in the tray. The soil in the pot will pull water up into the pot--complicating your watering and making the soil too wet for root development.

Humidity trays are about as useful for bonsai as a bicycle is to a fish. They are FAR too small with FAR too little water to make any difference in humidity levels for the plant above. They are sold as pure profit adds ons with bonsai pots. Run, do not walk, that humidity tray to the trash can. It this tree is outside in Panama, it's getting plenty of humidity...
 
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T
Zach's most important piece of advice is STOP MESSING WITH IT. All your attention is part of the problem. Rooting hormone will not help. It can recover, but it won't if you keep changing things up on it.

Also GET RID OF THAT HUMIDITY TRAY. It's completely useless, unnecessary and potentially a problem--as has been pointed out, the bottom of the pot risks coming in contact with the water in the tray. The soil in the pot will pull water up into the pot--complicating your watering and making the soil too wet for root development.

Humidity trays are about as useful for bonsai as a bicycle is to a fish. They are FAR too small with FAR too little water to make any difference in humidity levels for the plant above. They are sold as pure profit adds ons with bonsai pots. Run, do not walk, that humidity tray to the trash can. It this tree is outside in Panama, it's getting plenty of humidity...

Thank you for the advice? I’ll get rid of it
 
The humidity isn't going to hurt, but if the water level in the tray is touching the bottom of the pot, the soil will wick the water up and stay constantly wet, which is not good.

All of mine are outside in part sun during the morning and in full sun from noon onward and they always do great outside.

For added humidity, I wet the benches and the side of the house every evening when I get home from work. They are also in free draining soil which is currently Hoffman's bonsai mix, but switching to Akadama, pumice, and black lava on the next repot.

Every late Fall when I put them inside, they start dropping leaves and this continues until I put them back out in the Spring, then they start growing new leaves and develop full canopies.

Your tree will recover, it will take a little while though. Just check the soil BEFORE watering as they like the soil to be damp, but not wet. Think of 2 wash cloths, both that have been soaked with water (wet), but one of them was thoroughly wrung out (damp). This is where you want the moisture level of the soil to be.

Here is a pic of the two I have...

View attachment 243712
View attachment 243711
They’re really beautiful. There’s hope for my poor baby
 
T
Don't mess with the tree anymore once it's in the shade. Too much love kills. Get some more trees to divert your attention from this one.

There are two schools of thought on rooting hormone. It works or doesn't. My take is why risk losing a tree for a few pennies?
Thank you Zack for your patience and advice. I’ll let the little guy be.
 
T

Thank you Zack for your patience and advice. I’ll let the little guy be.
No problem. Just to clarify on the rooting hormone, you can't use it on your already potted tree. It's only for cuttings and newly collected trees from the wild. Hence my observation.
 
If you bring this tree indoors at this point it's doomed. Stop messing with it! No trimming, no humidity
Zach's most important piece of advice is STOP MESSING WITH IT. All your attention is part of the problem. Rooting hormone will not help. It can recover, but it won't if you keep changing things up on it.

Also GET RID OF THAT HUMIDITY TRAY. It's completely useless, unnecessary and potentially a problem--as has been pointed out, the bottom of the pot risks coming in contact with the water in the tray. The soil in the pot will pull water up into the pot--complicating your watering and making the soil too wet for root development.

Humidity trays are about as useful for bonsai as a bicycle is to a fish. They are FAR too small with FAR too little water to make any difference in humidity levels for the plant above. They are sold as pure profit adds ons with bonsai pots. Run, do not walk, that humidity tray to the trash can. It this tree is outside in Panama, it's getting plenty of humidity...

Live in Canada and have a dry winter , I made my own humidity tray and mist my trees as long as the trees are on the rocks and not I water it won’t wick. I use river rocks about 1 inch deep and only put half inch of water in it. No I’m no master and yes all trees should be outside. What do you do for humidity in the winter? I have my trees inside right now in a south facing window and they are all growing like made loving life. None of course are maples and pines ect , but ficus and Fukien
 
Live in Canada and have a dry winter , I made my own humidity tray and mist my trees as long as the trees are on the rocks and not I water it won’t wick. I use river rocks about 1 inch deep and only put half inch of water in it. No I’m no master and yes all trees should be outside. What do you do for humidity in the winter? I have my trees inside right now in a south facing window and they are all growing like made loving life. None of course are maples and pines ect , but ficus and Fukien
Growing tropicals and semi-tropicals in winter is a whole subset of bonsai culture. Perhaps others can chime in with suggestions.
 
Yes, it is very challenging for some species. I use a boot tray filled with river rocks as my humidity tray when I overwinter my tropicals.

They are on a shelving unit with grow lights. I also have a fan on a timer for airflow. The Ficus trees and Chinese Sweet Plum do great. The Fukien Tea always seem to suffer and I’ll be damned if I can keep a Serissa alive.

Misting helps, but you have to mist often. I also mist the rocks in the tray. Pests are also a constant problem, mainly aphids.

89CDA1C6-B180-4B3F-92E3-272170D6B16F.jpeg1AA4676B-2B7F-4E0E-82D2-3EA3241BC6C3.jpeg
 
Yes, it is very challenging for some species. I use a boot tray filled with river rocks as my humidity tray when I overwinter my tropicals.

They are on a shelving unit with grow lights. I also have a fan on a timer for airflow. The Ficus trees and Chinese Sweet Plum do great. The Fukien Tea always seem to suffer and I’ll be damned if I can keep a Serissa alive.

Misting helps, but you have to mist often. I also mist the rocks in the tray. Pests are also a constant problem, mainly aphids.

do you think going from outside to inside to outside to inside causes the tree to suffer more, then just climatising them in the house and getting the lighting and humidity right ?
 
do you think going from outside to inside to outside to inside causes the tree to suffer more, then just climatising them in the house and getting the lighting and humidity right ?

Well, Fukien Tea don’t like being moved so you have to gradually transition them outside, which can be difficult. I just put mine right outside in full sun and they flourish. They don’t do that well indoors during the Fall/Winter but what else can you do?

Bonsai isn’t always pretty unfortunately...
 
Whoa, people slow down with the advice. @Ilokee16 the original poster, lives in PANAMA. This is a tropical climate, zero cold, dry, low humidity winter's. Winter in Panama is warmer than winter in Taiwan, where it is found in Fujian province (Fukien in botanical Latin). Too much advice for climates different than the original poster.

Zack's advice, put it outside in bright shade, check on whether it needs water daily, but only water if surface of soil gets dry is exactly what the tree needs. It can live all year round outdoors in Panama. Humidity in Panama is high enough year round that it will be fine. No fertilizer for at least a couple months, until after it has put on growth. No rooting hormones. Nada.

After the tree recovers, it can be moved to brighter light, but this is months down the road.
 
Whoa, people slow down with the advice. @Ilokee16 the original poster, lives in PANAMA. This is a tropical climate, zero cold, dry, low humidity winter's. Winter in Panama is warmer than winter in Taiwan, where it is found in Fujian province (Fukien in botanical Latin). Too much advice for climates different than the original poster.

Zack's advice, put it outside in bright shade, check on whether it needs water daily, but only water if surface of soil gets dry is exactly what the tree needs. It can live all year round outdoors in Panama. Humidity in Panama is high enough year round that it will be fine. No fertilizer for at least a couple months, until after it has put on growth. No rooting hormones. Nada.

After the tree recovers, it can be moved to brighter light, but this is months down the road.

I just noticed that he’s in Panama, lol.

@Leo in N E Illinois is correct, Fukien Tea can live outdoors year round in Panama. Plenty of sun, plenty of humidity, and water when the soil surface dries and you’ll have no issues...
 
Well seems I was able to bring them back. Yes they are inside . I must them multiple times a day water only when needed . They love the south window. Lots of new growth in little time. Re potted 2 of them.with better draining soil then ran out if soil lol.
 

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