pbrown00
Mame
Have any of you guys ever drilled drainage holes in a porcelain dish? Is that even possible?
Drilling Porcelain
- Thread starter pbrown00
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Bonsai Nut
Nuttier than your average Nut
Welcome to the site!
You can drill porcelain tile, so I don't see why you wouldn't be able to drill a porcelain dish. You just have to use a diamond-coated bit - normal masonry or tile bits won't work. And you have to go really slow - exerting no pressure and just letting the bit do its job (like drilling glass). Of course, if you drill a 200 year-old porcelain dish and break it following my advice, I take it back
How to drill porcelain tile
You can drill porcelain tile, so I don't see why you wouldn't be able to drill a porcelain dish. You just have to use a diamond-coated bit - normal masonry or tile bits won't work. And you have to go really slow - exerting no pressure and just letting the bit do its job (like drilling glass). Of course, if you drill a 200 year-old porcelain dish and break it following my advice, I take it back
How to drill porcelain tile
Clicio
Masterpiece
sparklemotion
Shohin
Are you talking about porcelain specifically, or just a thinner ceramic dish?
Because I've done the latter, and would assume that the former is possible using the same principles/techniques.
What has been most successful for me is:
Because I've done the latter, and would assume that the former is possible using the same principles/techniques.
What has been most successful for me is:
- A glass/tile bit. Not a masonry bit. It can be carbide or diamond, but the generic masonry bits have disappointed me (though I know others have used them successfully). This is the style that has been most successful for me (even without pilot holes)
- Keep the drilling area wet. Stop to flush the slurry out often (or have a partner to keep flushing).
- Use tape on the front the keep the bit from slipping right at the beginning and on the back to prevent tear out.
- This is the biggy: Go slow, but apply some pressure (but not too much). I found this to be pretty much impossible with my variable-speed drill, and was most successful when I switched out to a hand-cranked carpenter's brace. I might have been able to get it to go with my drill press, but I didn't want to bother with the cleaning the ceramic slurry out of that area of the workshop.
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Bonsai Nut
Nuttier than your average Nut
Ack! In my link above, there is a video showing a guy drilling porcelain tile without water. DON'T DO THIS. Make sure you use plenty of water to lubricate and cool the bit. When drilling glass I actually build a circular dam out of putty and fill it with 1/4" of water. If possible, use a drill press.
sparklemotion
Shohin
Incidentally, I just googled "carpenter's brace" so that I could provide a picture and I'm kind of in awe of what new ones cost*. They are pretty standard under $5 items at garage/estate sales around these parts.
*the "woodworker's" effect is almost as bad as the "bonsai" effect on tool pricing, apparently.
*the "woodworker's" effect is almost as bad as the "bonsai" effect on tool pricing, apparently.
Mr.E
Mame
The advise above seems pretty solid. In my experience (installing too many floors!) with drilling porcelain the biggest cause of failure is through vibration. So try to keep it on a solid surface when drilling. To minimize vibration go slow and let the drill do the work with minimum pressure. you don't need water but it will give the bit longer life.
Bonsai Nut
Nuttier than your average Nut
That's because you were shopping at Woodcraft, where you take a normal tool, figure out how much it would cost if it were made of solid gold, and price appropriately
Here's a little more affordable one
pbrown00
Mame
Thanks for the advice! I'll try to post some pics of what I want to drill.
sparklemotion
Shohin
That's because you were shopping at Woodcraft, where you take a normal tool, figure out how much it would cost if it were made of solid gold, and price appropriately
Here's a little more affordable one
The sad thing is that around here, Woodcraft is the "affordable" woodworking store. It's probably for the best that Rockler doesn't even carry one -- they'd have to keep it in a glass case.
Bonsai Nut
Nuttier than your average Nut
sparklemotion
Shohin
We clearly hang out at the same places
I used to do my best not to. Woodworking has always seemed a bit too intense of a hobby for me (my furniture *needs* are pretty well met by a trip to ikea and an allen wrench). But more than one of my hobbies has led me to minor carpentry, and I can't have Mr. Motion making all of my grow boxes for me.
For right now, I'm enjoying doing what I can with scavenged hand tools, but every now and again you need to go buy a diamond stone and the exotic wood fumes hit ya.
AlainK
Imperial Masterpiece
I wouldn't!
A solid surface will just amplify the vibrations, the best way to break what you're working on.
On the contrary, put the object yiu want to drill in a container full of sand, that will absorrb vibrations and possible shocks or micro-cracks you won't see but that can break the whole thing in the future.
Sand.
TN_Jim
Omono
I do this...with mostly random pots not for bonsai, from thrift shops, flea markets, anywhere..those mixed gift floral pots people give that really should have drainage immediately but don’t.
The bit I use is about as big as my smallest fingernail. Multiple holes.
Masonry bit that also says ceramic, chuck it into drill, run nonstop cold water over location in sink..slow and low. Don’t push it, minimal force required. Heat will dull bit and turn hole to hardened smooth frustrating pocket. It takes a minute of patience, removing dust via slow grinding revolutions.
The bit I use is about as big as my smallest fingernail. Multiple holes.
Masonry bit that also says ceramic, chuck it into drill, run nonstop cold water over location in sink..slow and low. Don’t push it, minimal force required. Heat will dull bit and turn hole to hardened smooth frustrating pocket. It takes a minute of patience, removing dust via slow grinding revolutions.
TN_Jim
Omono
Here’s an example..what the hell is this, dunno..get in there privet
JoeR
Masterpiece
What about mame pots fired to cone 6? How would I go about drilling tiny 1/4” holes in ceramic pots like that?
sorce
Nonsense Rascal
WTC!
Sorce
Sorce
Hyn Patty
Shohin
Same, JoeR as porcelain. I have drilled and reshaped a lot of porcelain over the years and I've done it both with and without water for cooling. If you can water cool while you work it'll go a lot faster and is better for your bits as already mentioned. I've also drilled stoneware, glass, etc. It just takes patience but if you use diamond bits it goes a lot faster than you might expect. I have never, ever broken a piece I have drilled but I have also never drilled antique pieces that may have internal fractures.
If you water cool it as you work just be very, very careful about your electrical tools. Mixing water and electricity is far more dangerous to you than heating up and wasting a drill bit so when I have taught classes on doing this I usually have beginners work dry with frequent pauses to cool the bits. If you work with water to cool I strongly recommend using a flex shaft. If you don't have one, just skip the water.
If you water cool it as you work just be very, very careful about your electrical tools. Mixing water and electricity is far more dangerous to you than heating up and wasting a drill bit so when I have taught classes on doing this I usually have beginners work dry with frequent pauses to cool the bits. If you work with water to cool I strongly recommend using a flex shaft. If you don't have one, just skip the water.
Bonsai Nut
Nuttier than your average Nut
A sound safety tip is to use a GFCI extension cord. My wet stone polisher comes with a GFCI built in - but if you are using a corded hand drill I wouldn't use water without one.
